Gateway to Heaven

Religious metropolis of India, Varanasi, on the banks of the river Ganga is a fascinating vortex of life, music, art, culture and above all - what most Hindus believe - a gateway to heaven, writes Priya Krishnaswamy.

It is perhaps the subconscious fear, fascination and a streak of innate voyeurism that draws almost all tourists to the cremation ghats in Varanasi.

The elaborate formalities according to the Hindu custom right from the funeral procession arriving at the ghats to the rituals prior to lighting the pyre makes for quite a riveting and disturbing drama. And the sight of several funeral pyres burning brightly in the fast spreading twilight put me in a philosophical reverie, which was broken by my boatman. He made a statement in a very matter of fact way, which I found extremely intriguing, "Death is business, it is a continuous process here in Varanasi. The fire that burns the dead never ceases." And how right he is.

It is not only the dream of every Hindu to make a pilgrimage to Varanasi at least once in their lifetime but it is also a common belief among them that anyone who ends their earthly cycle here is transported straight to heaven.

View of the ghats lining the river bank in Varanasi All pics Priya Krishnaswamy

Pinnacle Of My Trip

The allure of Varanasi, the city with myriad names - Kashi as it was first known but Benaras in popular parlance - is in its ghats. Over 100 ghats with numerous steep steps leading to the river dot the riverfront of the city.

Boat rides for a river view prespective of the city

While Harishchandra and the Manikarnika are the two most popular burning ghats, the main bathing ghats are Assi, Dasaswamedh, Barnasangam, Panchaganga. These are crowded throughout the day with devotees taking a dip in the holy river to cleanse all their sins.

Viewing the ghats at dawn is the most rewarding experience; all your senses are treated to an empyreal experience on the ghats at dawn. For me it was the pinnacle of my trip to the city, which has been the religious metropolis of India for over 2,000 years because it is said to integrate the virtues of all other places of pilgrimage in India. The sun's first rays penetrating through the envelope of mist creating golden ripples on the water has a mesmerising effect while the ghats reverberate with the chants of mantras, the clangs of temple bells and the ‘riyaz' of aspiring musicians. The aroma of incense, oil lamps, flowers and scents permeates through the air.

Boats line the ghats and one can rent them to take a cruise on the river to see the different ghats. During peak season, which is from September to end November because of perfect weather and the festive season, a boat ride can touch an astronomical Rs 2,000 but during other times the rates can be a meager Rs 300. I was lucky to meet a friendly boatman who offered an extended guided trip on the river for Rs 500 and not only took me around to view all the ghats but also waited patiently for me to finish my rather prolonged dip in the Ganga. I am certain that the man must have had empathetic thoughts like "poor soul, she must have a lot of sins to cleanse", as I wallowed in water enjoying the morning sunshine under a clear blue sky and the tingling sensation brought on by the slightly chilly water.

Pilgrims cleansing their sins in the Ganga

Shop selling religious artefacts and curios

Birla Temple in the Benaras University complex

An Explosion Of Colours

The view of the city from the river is interesting but my first impression of it was a feeling that is truly inexplicable. It was a barrage of lively and colourful images and I was introduced to the various facets of the city all at once - priests with shaved heads offering their service in temples, Muslims clad in long black kurtas walking alongside in conversation with each other, families looking around for familiar faces, beggars testing the generosity of visitors. And the astounding ghats!

The city is a centre for the religiously inclined and those who are not - it not only houses more than 1,500 temples and mosques but is also a seat for music, art and culture enthusiasts. Among the religious attractions, the Alamgir Mosque built over Panchganga Ghat and the Gyanvapi Mosque, a magnificent structure with tall minarets, both built by Emperor Aurangzeb are popular attractions. While the Arabic Centre of Islamic Studies is a reminder of the fact that more than 25 per cent of the city's population is Muslim, the exquisite examples of ancient Hindu temple art at the back of the Gyanvapi Mosque showcases the harmonious co-existence of the two communities.

Temples of fame include the Durga Temple, Sankat Mochan Temple, Kaal Bhairav Temple, Bharatmata Temple and the Bindu Madhav Temple. But Kashi Vishwanath Temple is of foremost importance. Lord Vishwanath is the presiding deity here and the shivlinga installed here is considered as one of the 12 jyotirlingas of India. I was fortunate to be on time to attend the evening aarti and despite the crowd and the clamour, the charged atmosphere of the hour long ritual left me ecstatic. It is also called the Golden Temple due to the gold plating covering its 15.5 metre high spire.

Harischandra Ghat, one of the two popular ghats for cremation

Crowded lanes of Varanasi

A typical paan shop

Centre For Learning

The city exudes a similar degree of fervour towards music, arts and culture and has been the centre of learning for these forms of art for ages.

It was here that Patanjali wrote his treatise on Sanskrit grammar - the Mahabhashya and where the great poets Tulsidas and Kabir penned their works. The Benaras Hindu University is today perhaps the largest residential university in India with about 32 areas of study. Spread over 2,000 acres donated by the Maharaja of Benaras in the early part of twentieth century, it was founded by Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya. The university is noted for its specialisation in Sanskrit and Indian culture. Within the precincts of the university is a replica of Vishwanath Temple. Built by the Birlas with marble, it is much bigger than the original and an imposing sight. In fact, the university itself is on an astounding and mammoth scale and it took me close to three hours to just see all the different academic departments.

One can spend an equal number of hours for a very enriching experience of witnessing the local artisans weave their magic with silk. More than Varanasi, the name Benaras is synonymous for textile, apparel and carpets. Benarasi saris made from silk with gold and silver brocade are works of art. Weaving of silk begins with the making of the yarn, then rolling it on to a spindle, a job that requires highly skillful fingers. Large looms are set up at home with an elaborate frame for the warp and weft threads and even the young ones of the family get involved in this.

Benarasi silk brocades have minute motifs of gold or silver thread and each motif has to be created individually using tiny shuttles - an immensely intricate and laborious job. Perhaps the price of Benarasi saris is justified after all.

Apart from silk products, jewellery, brasswork, wooden and lacquered toys are the other important handicraft products crafted in the narrow alleys of the city. The heart of the city lies in this veritable labyrinth of narrow lanes and navigating these can be a difficult proposition for those used to the four lane tarred roads of big cities. The paths are lined with shops crammed cheek by jowl selling silk, religious articles, toys, fruits - almost everything under the sun!

They are also covered with garbage and cow dung in varying degrees and are unfailingly adorned with stains of paan - yet another delicacy the city is famous for. Almost everyone here is fond of what they proclaim is an intrinsic part of their culture.

Busy with the constant influx of pilgrims and visitors, the city is also a refuge for those who have decided to tread on the path of spiritualism leaving all their worldly pursuits behind. The potpourri of people and the cacophonic tumult of life in various hues is endearing, especially when the chaos of the day succumbs itself to the dark evening. Varanasi was all what I had seen captured in countless photographs and documentaries and much more. It is a soul-stirring encounter to be felt and experienced, but not necessarily to be understood.