The Road Warrior

Sheldon Santwan discovers the joys of conquering the Himachal heights in a Toyota Land Cruiser Prado.

Snow World: Across Rohtang Pass with a view of the towering mountains in Lahul Valley All pics Achal Dhruva
Taking a breather on the way down from Rohtang	Grazing in the fields off the highway near Ambala	Off-roading to test the Prado

Driving through slushy and muddy tract from Rohtang Pass back to Manali

It was a couple of days before Diwali and Delhi had just been rocked by a series of bomb blasts. I was universally advised to banish any thoughts of taking that flight into the Capital the following morning. But what was in store in Delhi was just too much to resist. The travel enthusiast in me took over and common sense was tossed in the backseat. This road-hog was raring to go.

When you're perched at 3,978 metres above sea level in six inches of snow, bomb blasts seem like a faraway memory. The breathtakingly beautiful landscape and a stunning sunrise that we experienced on the last day of this adventurous roadtrip completely vindicated our decision to make it against all odds.

Launch Pad

A scenic stretch enroute to Mandi

The journey to Rohtang Pass (3,978 metres) began from Delhi airport where the Toyota representative handed over the keys to the Land Cruiser Prado for a 'test drive' that would span four days, mainly criss-crossing the rugged and picturesque Himachal terrain. It took a 20-minute briefing to acquaint us with the features of this fully-loaded beauty. I, for one, was completely impressed by the way it seemed to glide noiselessly given its size.

We hit the highway to Shimla from the airport itself - why waste time when you have only four days with a beauty like this!

Clearing Delhi was bit of a bother and till Panipat we were bogged down with heavy and rather undisciplined traffic. But the roads opened up as soon as we crossed Panipat and I got my first opportunity to step on the gas; the car held rock steady even at 160 kmph! Soon we were whizzing past green fields.

One for the camera: Enroute to Banjar

We decided to take a detour off the highway near Ambala and got on a tractor trail leading right through the sugarcane fields. The car of course didn't see the difference between the rough trail and a highway - it gave a smooth ride all the way.

A short photo session later and we were back on the national highway leading up to Solan. We made good time stopping briefly for some pictures of the cable car of Timber Trail Resort at Parwanoo. Deciding that the national highways were a wasted drive for a vehicle like Prado, we cut off to the interior roads from Kandaghat shortly after crossing Solan. Though the quality of roads deteriorated rapidly, we hardly felt the difference thanks to the superb suspension that automatically adjusted itself to the bumps along the way. Even as natural light started fading across the pine tree-lined roads, the headlights did a marvellous job of keeping the winding roads in full view, instilling confidence to negotiate the ever-winding roads at night.

Winding Roads

Off-roading above Marahi on the way to Rohtang Pass

Our first night halt was at Toshali Royal View Resort in Shilon Bagh, a small picturesque hamlet wedged between the more popular tourist spots of Kufri and Chail on the outskirts of Shimla. We were put up in a huge duplex room, which apart from a king-sized bed was complete with sitting area, kitchen counter, dining table, and a balcony overlooking the valley. The view was quite breathtaking, as we discovered the next morning. After a leisurely breakfast and a walk through the property which offers facilities like a health club, swimming pool, multi-cuisine restaurant, conference hall, etc we set off on the second leg of our journey.

The drive to Shoja across the Jalori Pass (3,223 metres) snaked through a series of ups and downs cutting through pine forest and terraced valleys dotted with small villages. The landscape was absolutely picture perfect. The road from Narkanda (2,708 metres) to Sainj (1,372 metres) was downhill with sweeping valley views including that of Sutlej River snaking like a bright blue-green ribbon. We crossed Sutlej just after Sainj and made a quick pit stop for lunch at Luhri, a small village, where the car was a cynosure of all eyes.

Into Difficult Terrain

Things got more interesting from Luhri as we set out for Jalori Pass, which links the districts of Shimla and Kullu. The last stretch of over 20 kilometres that led to the Pass was through a dirt track and landslide prone terrain. But the Prado revelled in the challenge.

Romping in the sugarcane fields

Winding roads along winding streams

Zipping through the mountain country

The landslide-prone dirt track on the final stretch to Jalori Pass

Reaching the Pass was rather ceremoniously marked by the loud pop of a sealed packet of chips that automatically burst open thanks to the atmospheric pressure. Stepping out of the Prado into the chilly (temperature hovering at four degrees centigrade) but invigorating air, we spent a few quite moments watching the sky aglow with the last breath of daylight and then herded into the lone tea-stall to warm ourselves with a hot cuppa and our bones by the wood fire. We then made our way across the Pass to Shoja, a tiny hamlet five kilometres from the Pass and to Banjara Retreat, the only accommodation available there.

Banjara Retreat, a solid cedar wood house built in typical Himachali style, is surrounded by heavily wooded forest and offers a panoramic view of the snow-covered Himalayan ranges. It is an ideal getaway for a back-to-nature experience. It has large, fully furnished, comfortable rooms with attached bathrooms that have (hold your breath) running hot water. The kitchen serves up an appetising fare including freshly baked bread and cakes. Quite British, I thought.

There are numerous walks and treks one can enjoy in the surrounding forest and meadows especially Serolsar Lake, which is a five kilometre walk through thick oat forest from Jalori Pass. While we were extremely tempted to explore these pristine environs, we forced ourselves to push on after breakfast for Manali. Before we got on National Highway 21 to Manali at Aut we made the most of the narrow hinterland roads including indulging in a bit of off-roading next to a stream with a few locals with their horses watching in curiosity and awe.

Toshali Royal View Resort at Shilon Bagh

Valley view enroute to Kufri from Shilon Bagh

The Final Frontier

We arrived in Manali late afternoon and after a quick lunch set off to conquer the final frontier - Rohtang Pass (3,978 metres) - in a race against fading light. Just after Marhi, a small-tented settlement of stalls halfway to Rohtang, we encountered snowfall. In the excitement of the falling snow in the backdrop of one of the most picturesque settings I have seen in my life, I could not resist the temptation of doing some off-roading for a photo shoot and put the Prado to test.

Shifting into low gear on the automatic transmission, I also activated the four-wheel drive into its L-L position for maximum traction. The result was unbelievable as the car held rock steady on the snow and slippery rocks; the huge wheels stayed firm, belying the terrain. The brakes equipped with ABS, brake assist and EBD, did their job perfectly as I manoeuvred the car on a small snow-covered plateau perched on the edge of the cliff. Of course, the snow is wasted if it isn't used to make snowballs and we had our own little snow fight.

Snowcrest Manor Manali

Cynosure of all eyes in the market at Banjar

Twilight Zone

By the time we began to drive back to the Pass, it was fast approaching twilight coupled with heavy snowfall. The road got really treacherous in the last five to six kilometres as it snaked up on a series of sharp bends and steep climbs. About four kilometres short of the Pass and with darkness falling quickly now, we decided to abandon the idea and did a U-turn. The drive back to Manali through Marhi is pretty tricky, especially in pitch darkness. But we were saved by the Prado's strong headlights and foglights. We were back in Manali in no time, feeling relaxed but disappointed at not reaching our target.

That night we were comfortably ensconced at Snowcrest Manor in Manali, a property of The Usha-Lexus Hotels & Resorts. Over a sumptuous meal at Rendezvouz, the multi-cuisine restaurant of the hotel, we discussed the idea of starting at five the next morning to get to Rohtang Pass and then directly reaching Delhi before midnight. It was no doubt an ambitious plan but none of us was willing to give up now that we had got so close to scaling the ultimate frontier.

We set off at the break of dawn with absolutely no traffic and made good speed as the day progressed; the sight of the snow-capped mountains turning from a golden orange hue to pure white against a clear deep blue sky was breathtaking. I turned on the six-CD changer and heard the unmistakably bass voice of Shaggy singing, "In the summer time when the weather is fine…" while we nodded our heads to the irony of it all as we watched the dashboard indicate the gradual drop in the temperature outside with every turn we took to reach Rohtang. And before we touched the Pass the temperature dipped below zero, which didn't quite affect us as we sat snugly inside with the temperature fixed at 22 degrees Celsius.

View from Banjara Retreat at Shoja	Cedar wood house of Banjara Retreat
Terraced landscape around Shoja	Postcard beauty of Himachal

On Top Of The World

The Pass was a white blanket, desolate with few oil drums and remains of a few huts that had been set up during the season. A number of colourful prayer flags were bunched together near a small temple fluttering forlornly in the strong wind. As we stepped out of the warm cocoon of the car we were hit by the biting cold. The temperature on the dashboard indicator read minus seven degrees Celsius. But we were thrilled to be at the highest point of the drive and exhilarated by the majestic panorama of towering snow-clad mountains all around us. We did a small jig, our feet sinking ankle-deep in the soft fresh snow and the dance was more to keep our minds of the numbing cold more than anything else.

Crossing over the pass, we drove about a kilometre to the Lahul Valley side and were astounded by the view. As far as the eye could see there were rows and rows of snow clad mountains each taller than the other. It was a sharp contrast from the Manali side, which was still green on the lower reaches. It was just the start of winter and we shuddered to think how harsh and inhospitable the terrain would become within a short span of time.

Plush interiors of the Toyota Land Cruiser Prado
Taking the U-turn 4 kms short of Rohtang Pass	Shepherd camp on the way to Rohtang Pass

The Rohtang Pass is closed from mid-November to April or May due to heavy snowfall and we were the lucky ones to have actually made it to the top and actually experience falling snow. Just then, another jeep heading towards Keylong in Lahul Valley stopped beside us and the driver advised us to wait until noon before starting our descent to Manali because of the treacherous driving conditions in the melting snow and ice. It was just 8.30 am and we didn't fancy the wait for another three hours. Besides, he was in an ordinary jeep while we were in the brand new Toyota Land Cruiser Prado and were sure we could conquer any road.

We also had to get back to Delhi that very night to catch an early morning flight back to Mumbai. But we still had about 630 kilometres from here to Delhi. In fact it was going to be our longest day on our four-day drive in the Prado since we set out on this Himachal expedition. But that didn't seem to discourage us; we were all revved up.

Unfortunately, the enthusiasm disappeared as we made our way down. We understood the full gravity of the warning imparted by the local jeep driver on the first curve itself. I could feel the car losing traction even as I engaged every ounce of power on the four-wheel controls and moved down into the lowest gear possible. Looking down at the winding road ahead, we could now see for miles and it was only then that I realised how special this car was… at least we were still on the road and descending.

In the distance I could see trucks, buses, jeeps and cars of all shapes and sizes sliding about madly almost colliding with each other and struggling to make headway. I pulled over and continued to watch the spectacle in front of me with my heart in my mouth; I was almost certain that one of them would plunge into the valley at any moment. Many had a close shave; we saw a state transport bus skid wildly on the turn and go completely sideways with its rear end jutting out over the edge - the rear wheels were just inches away from the edge.

After a long wait, we made our way down the treacherous terrain and got off the ice. Phew! Hats off to this road warrior - its real prowess is revealed only under these trying conditions. We were now back in business and the car zoomed ahead with completely authority much like a beast which had been on a leash too long.

The land of apples	A wayside temple enroute to Narkanda
Cable car going to Timber Trail Resort at Parwanoo	The hamlet of Shoja

Back In Manali

We had lost a good two hours or more of our planned driving time with these unexpected encounters. Back at the hotel in Manali we just packed our stuff and moved on. It was a pity as the property located on the highest point in Manali overlooking the Manalsu River, old Manali town and the Rohtang Pass would have been an excellent place for rest and recreation. The 32-room centrally-heated hotel with well appointed rooms and suites, offers a host of facilities like conference hall, cyber café, gym, discotheque etc, making it one of the best addresses in town.

As we wound our way back from Manali, bidding our final goodbyes to the Rohtang Pass range, we couldn't help thinking how time had flown. We had set off from Delhi three days ago on this adventure in a strange car that now felt almost like home. This time, as we made our way back to Delhi, the journey seemed almost lacklustre, but that was only in comparison to the excitement of the past few days, as the views along the way were still really scenic, with the drive as comfortable as it could be.

With a short stopover at Chandigarh, we zoomed into Delhi doing a steady 100 kmph on the highway for most part. It had been a long and hard drive but and an exulting one and despite the slight fatigue I was already dreaming of an opportunity for another spin in the mean machine. I have even thought of the destination - from Rohtang Pass to Ladakh.

(With inputs from Achal Dhruva)