All About Fish

Chef Laurent Tourondel, a renowned chef in New York, has a reason to celebrate - it is his return to the sea. BLT Fish is the second in the BLT series of signature modern bistros in New York.

BLT Fish is different. Chef Tourondel re-immerses himself in the deep blue waters of the Pacific and the Atlantic and brings to food lovers the joys of fresh fish like the Alaskan Black Cod, Atlantic Bluefin Tuna and the Alaskan King Salmon. In fact, he gracefully hands out the detailed map of how the anatomy of bluefin tuna can give you precious sushi cuts like Noto, Hoho and Kama that are found only in rare Japanese restaurants. The theme is fish, the flavour is fish and what is most striking is the retractable glass rooftop giving way to the stars.

There is choice for everyone in this three-story townhouse. For instance, the ambience. Choose to seat yourself in the New England-style fish shack on the first floor or proceed to the sophisticated third floor dining room designed to showcase sublime seafood. The menus differ. The first floor is a shack with exposed brick walls, white wainscoting, a staged raw bar and loads of black and white photographs of seafarers. A blackboard at the helm highlights seasonal raw bar specials and homemade pies like Crunchy Hazelnut Pumpkin Pie (which I later had as dessert with spiced ice cream!).

What sets Chef Tourondel apart is his vast and varied hands-on culinary experience in the best kitchens around the world - Paris, London, Moscow, New York ­ including those manned by the great Troisgros family. With the opening of BLT Fish, Chef Tourondel re-establishes himself as one of New York's most accomplished seafood chefs and if the wave of appraisal names BLT Fish as one of best seafood restaurants in New York, it will be of no surprise.

For a taste of the simple grilled fare oozing with flavour we started off with Chef Tourondel's signature dish Cantonese Red Snapper ($35 a pound of weight) perfectly complemented by a Crispy Rice Gallette ($7). Each side dish is nestled in a petite cast-iron pan. Grilled Asparagus ($8), Salt Crusted Sunchokes, and Pommes Soufflé ($7) are just some of the tempting choices. Ending is not on one but two sweet notes "Rocky Road" Chocolate-Praline Cake ($9) and the Pumpkin Pie. Gave the Caramalized Meringues with Banana Passion Fruit Sorbet ($9) a miss. One unique aspect of the fish is that is sourced from American water and is only the most seasonal including line caught sea bass, organic salmon, lobsters flown in from Maine and scallops that are harvested by divers. The simply grilled whole fish and shellfish are available by the pound and presented tableside. Fillets of swordfish, tuna, halibut, cod and larger fish are offered as well. For those diners who are seeking a "Not Fish" option the Chef provides an expertly prepared seasonal item like the Roasted Rack of Lamb with Herb Crust ($36).

Bistros may no longer mean the same as they were earlier identified only as coffeehouses. But the essence remains the same: warm and friendly place to meet and enjoy good food!