The story Of Miguel Arcanje

Rashmi Uday Singh’s Good Food Guide

He was India's great chef, his 18 grandchildren still believe in the values he practised. Even 25 years after his death he is still spoken of as a genius. A successful restaurant is named after him and recently a book has been written on him. I have the good fortune not only to lay my hands on the book but also to eat at the restaurant.

‘Masci: The Man Behind The Legend' is written by Odette Mascarenhas about chef Miguel Arcanje Mascarenhas and the restaurant is called 'Miguel Arcanje'. It's an elegant restaurant nestled in the beautiful lush, sun-drenched Taj Exotica hotel by the Goan beach of Benaulim. I walk from my villa (after a plunge in my private pool) past the languorous beach and I am already in the mood for a trip down nostalgia lane.

The hard-cover, well-produced book packs within it's 183 pages not just the fascinating rags-to-success story but also an invaluable collection of Masci's recipes. I devour the book with as much gusto as I do the knowledgeable and articulate Vincent Ramos' explanations about Goan food and the superb selection from the restaurant's Mediteranean menu. Chef Melroy De Souza offers a choice of grilled asparagus with shaved Parma Ham & Balsamic Vinaigrette (Rs 375). I love the Smoked Scallops with Salad Greens and Dried Pear (Rs 575) and enjoy the Sun Dried Tomato Salad with Roasted Pine Nuts and Garlic (Rs 395). A delicious balancing of textures and flavours marks the food here. I particularly enjoy the Tea Smoked Salmon with Red Onion Vinaigrette (Rs 425). Well-known for his risottos and pastas, his pizzas are also sought after. Pan-seared Chicken Breast with Spinach and Mustard Grain Crust (Rs 895) is a hot favourite and my Lobster thermidor (done to Masci's recipe) is unerringly cooked.

Tart tatin, creme brulee, white chocolate mousse napoleon with honey tuille (Rs 325) are worth winding up with. I particularly enjoy the almond praline cake (again Masci's recipe) and request the team behind this sumptuous lunch to pose for me while I click away happily.

And then I go laze on the hammock as the crisp winter sunshine warms my face and the sea laps gently as I pour over Masci's book. It's fascinating how a Goan kitchen boy whose job was plucking 200 chickens a day rose to become world's celebrated chef who catered to the kings and queens and viceroys of the world. Not only does his story come alive, you can actually recreate his food and have a taste of this legend too. A delicious and memorable one!