Antique Encore

Is antique jewellery antiquated beyond belief? Do contemporary Cartiers really rule the roost? Neeti Mehra delves into this conundrum to find out that the past is, well, not all that passé

Gazdar Jewels Photo Credit: Mexy Xavier

Come winter and the wedding season descends on us and the flurry of celebrity weddings has led fashionistas to dig out their designer baubles to impress the swish set.

But where does this leave family heirlooms - the traditional pieces that were de rigueur- kundan with its brilliantly hued gems embedded in strips of pure soft gold, meenakari or the brilliant enamel jewellery and exquisitely entwined filigree work in gold or silver wire? Adding to the grandeur of the past is thewa in eclectic red, green or blue and traditional south Indian jewellery. In a market place flooded with contemporary collections replete with modern motifs and settings, is traditional jewellery losing its vaunted position?

Courtsey: Tanishq- The ‘Paheli’ Collection

Apparently not. This year, there is a big influence of traditional styling in jewellery. Traditional motifs in contemporary designs are very popular, combining the sensibility of tradition and the wearability of contemporary jewellery. Jewellery selection today is in harmony with the ensemble and the occasion. The fashion mantra dictates that a fusion of traditional motifs in a contemporary fashion will stay for some time to come, driving home the fact that trends are not lasting, but the legacy of a universal piece is priceless.

The current trends imbibe a fusion of styles, with motifs particularly of traditional nature like paisleys, lotus and others inspired by nature. Indian and Islamic motifs - as well as temple architecture, traditional sculptures and paintings are also inspiring designs today. A profusion of colour and precious and semi-precious stones dominate the style sheets- turquoise or phirozi, emeralds, red rubies, tourmalines, carnelians and uncut diamonds.

Market Mantra

Gazdar Jewels

From time immemorial, adorning oneself with jewels has been an intrinsic part of the Indian tradition. From gods and goddesses embellished with finery and carved in temple stone to the concept of 'solah shringar', Indian jewellery reached its pinnacle under the Mughal rule. Deeply woven in our religious and spiritual ethos, jewellery designs and styles have now evolved to be in sync with the times.

Aanchal Jain, marketing manager of Tanishq, feels that the Indian consumer today wants the best of tradition and jewellery that is in tune with her everyday realities and sensibilities. According to her, modern, wearable jewellery will definitely see an increase in demand due to the changing lifestyles. But the traditional and antique elements of design will continue to find favour with today's woman because of its evergreen appeal.

Noshir Dotiwala, spokesperson for Gazdar Jewels - a high-end jewellery store that offers designer items - believes that the market for traditionally styled jewellery will always exist. He says, "Jewellery, traditionally has always been perceived by Indians as a sound investment. Traditionally styled jewels resonate with this belief as they combine exquisite craftsmanship and substance." He believes that customers understand the longevity of fine gems and jewellery and consider it more than just a mere investment; it is a legacy that lives on. Since its inception in 1930, Gazdar Jewels has been dealing in jewellery in classical Indian and Western designs.

Bollywood Blast

Courtsey: Tanishq- The ‘Paheli’ Collection

The fascination with antique jewellery has not restricted itself to real life only. The influence of traditional style has extended itself to the big screen also. Reza Shariffi, one of Bollywood's most prolific designer, created jewellery for Madhuri Dixit in the song 'Dola Re' from the film Devdas, "Her character was interpreted by me as a woman who was very fashionable. The jewellery, which I designed, was a mix of Mughal, Bengali and Marwari jewellery. For the male characters from a pundit on the ghaat to Kaalibabu, the villain, the spectrum of jewellery was mind boggling." This collection recreated the magic of the early 20th century and after the film, the marketplace was flooded with reproductions.

Keen to spot this trend, Tanishq is reviving the essence of Indian heritage by crafting it in modern forms and have been inspired from the Shekhavati and Marwar regions in Rajasthan. "We draw inspiration from nature, traditional Indian motifs, art and architecture and international trends," Jain says. Sets in the Paheli range cost from Rs. 80,000 onwards.

Elaborating on this, Tusheeta Kurien, senior designer at Tanishq design studio, says, "Kundan is a distinctive Rajasthani technique and the jewellery pieces worn in the 18th century has been a major influence. Various precious and semi-precious stones have been used to give it a new dimension." They used the technique of enamelling, traditionally done behind the jewel, creatively in the front in several designs to create stunning results - an exquisite collection of kundan and meenakari jewellery set in pure gold and offset with precious and semi-precious stones. This collection, adds Jain, has been received well by buyers.

Mystical Motifs

Are those days gone where a navratna necklace, which symbolised seven planets and two personifications of the moon cycle - was a must in every woman's collection? The nine stones were combined in a single ornament in a traditional arrangement, as a manifestation of the divine plan for every living creature, and a symbol of the universe. Have modern settings overshadowed traditional motifs? Shariffi doesn't think so. "Kairi, kamal phool, gold and moti, bel butti and chaand sitara are the motifs one cannot go wrong with," he says. But settings, he believes, are a matter of personal choice as it is more of a technical detailing than a reflection of aesthetic sense.

The past may never seem to change on the surface, but it embraces the zeitgeist wholeheartedly. While fashion pundits spell out the demise of trends with great alacrity every season, traditional Indian jewellery is here to stay. Reflecting the essence of the regal past, it has evolved with a contemporary sensibility that makes it universal in its appeal and timeless in its aura, an ancient tradition alive in modern times.

Courtsey: Reza Shariffi