Going Dutch

Amidst cobble-stoned paths and blooming tulips is the quaint little city of Amsterdam, where art and culture thrive along with legalised prostitution and drugs, discovers Deepali Gupta

Pic: Sanjay Yalavatti

I was warned about certain law and order issues in the city of Amsterdam before I landed there. But I was surely not prepared for my car being broken into in the first half hour of being there. I had taken enough precautions to jam my car with a heavy steering lock after I had parked it, but that didn't prevent a burglary. Half an hour later, I found my favourite jacket, among other things, gone from the car's backseat.

The above does not make for a good preface for readers who might want to travel to Holland some day. But this is just a one-off incident and Amsterdam is a very safe place for travellers. The controversy revolving around the legalisation of soft drugs like marijuana and cannabis, however, casts occasional shadows in the otherwise laid-back and fun city.

Tulip Nation

I soon forgot about my loss amidst the vast fields of lilies, roses, and of course, tulips that has now become synonymous with Holland. I was on my way to Keukenhof, just an hour from Amsterdam, which is literally a flower plantation. The early months of summer are the perfect time to witness the abundance of colourful blossoms; yellow, red and orange tulip bulbs amongst the daffodils and hyacinths, blue grape hyacinths resembling a natural carpet in the Keukenhof park. So when it was time to leave, I decided that I would visit this place once again on my way back.

Coming back to Amsterdam, the atmosphere here is fairly laid-back, unlike modern day cities where life moves at jet speed. People enjoy sitting at roadside cafés, which are allowed to sell small quantities of cannabis and drugs that do not qualify as 'hard' drugs. A number of street musicians liven the roads as they try to drown the whistling sounds of the yellow trams passing by. Amsterdam is really a romantic city - people lazying around in the antique parks, pigeons pecking grains from outstretched palms and colourful flower markets.

And, of course, cheese farms. A trip to Holland would not be complete without tasting some fresh handmade cheese at Edam. Known the world over by the name of Edam, the cheese actually originated from the quaint and the picturesque cottages in the sleepy town of Edam, which is close to the city.

Of Flea Markets And Windmills

Apart from the tulips and the cheese, Amsterdam has a rich history that shines through the city's architecture. A small part of the city - the Dam square - is paved with cobble-stones that links the concrete road and the Royal Palace, which resembles the assembly halls of most of the other European countries. This anomaly in construction is because the palace was a town hall until 1808, when Napoleon's brother Louis Bonaparte deemed it a structure fit for the ruler, due to its central location perhaps. For most part of the year, the palace is closed, but it opens up for tourists in the summer months.

Like most European locations, Amsterdam too has an indelible mark of the Nazi regime. Only this one is different; it is linked to an internationally recounted tale of a 14-year old Jewish girl's experiences in hiding and who was later taken to a concentration camp. Anne Frank's house is a popular destination for book lovers and visitors can ask for a guided tour of where Anne and her family hid - a map to put to a book that most of us read in our school days.

After making this guided trip, I decided to take a tour of the museums that are scattered all over the city. It may be the open-minded approach the Dutch take to life, but art proliferates in Amsterdam, and the numerous museums sprinkled through the city bear witness to that. The Rijks Museum, Stedelijk Museum and particularly the Van Gogh Museum display some of the world's greatest art, Europe has seen through the ages. And in case you are caught unwillingly in a group of art enthusiasts, you can quietly slip away to Vondelpark, just a few minutes away from all these three museums. Its beautiful blossoms and soothing gentle grass is sure to relax you.

Whatever image you associate with the lowlands, the first thing likely to come to mind is the windmill. These living monuments have so much importance attached to it in Holland that there is even a National Windmill Day (11 May). They are adorned with flowers, garlands, figures of angels and the Dutch flag on festive occasions and national holidays. For centuries, windmills have helped the Dutch fight water shortages so they were the first to develop 'windmill technology.' Spread throughout Holland, they are the pride of the country and there are eight of them in Amsterdam alone.

Shopping And Night Out

Amsterdam is also popular for its diamond industries and the city offers some free guided tours to the diamond factories. Going by the adage, 'diamonds are a girl's best friend', it is anyone's guess what the profile of these visitors might be. The city also offers numerous canals and boat rides and the best time to take them is at dusk. A casual multi-lingual commentary will guide you through the sites on either bank. By the time the boat returns to its dock, the night lights of the city come on and the row of bridges glimmer over the calm waters.

Another delightful sight is the Magere Brug. Amsterdam has over 1,200 bridges of which Magere Brug is the most famous. If you are impressed by the London Bridge, this one will surely be a treat. Built in 1670, it connects the banks of the Amstel River and opens every half an hour to allow boats to pass. For the romantics, the river offers a candle-light cruise as well. And for the lonely hearts, worry not because the cruise will get you all set for the hip nightlife that Amsterdam has to offer.

For shopaholics, Albert Cuyp is the perfect destination. It is Amsterdam's famous day-market for perishable goods and the market is quite akin to Fashion Street in Mumbai. But it can be quite a carnival-like experience for unaware walkers. On the other hand, Waterlooplein is Amsterdam's largest flea market. Unfortunately, it is not quite what older accounts had prepared me for, but it is still a good place to pick up clothes and souvenirs. However, for those who opt for the novelty factor, the real market to visit is the Alkmaar, which is a large open-air cheese market that is also abundant in seasonal flowers. About 45 minutes out of the city, the Alkmaar market is held every Friday during the summer months and there is a lot to be bought from the near-by lanes even after the main market closes.

Prostitution is legal in Holland and the Red Light District is famous for its window prostitution. These windows that open into the streets are lit with red light. The area is generally supposed to be a safe place, even in the wee hours of the morning. Ironic as it may sound, the heart of this red light district is marked by a Gothic church - Oude Kerk - whose tall towers made for a navigational landmark for sailors at one point in time. Tourists visit the district by the hordes, but photography in this area is strictly banned for obvious reasons.

Other than that, partygoers can visit Reguliersdwarsstraat, a street that offers a mix of gay bars, restaurants that serve gourmet French cuisine, and night clubs that attract celebrities and business travellers from around the world. Rembrandtplein, on the other hand, is a slightly louder and rowdier part of town. Quite like the pubs in Tolkien's books, this area comprises bars where people sing and dance to Dutch folk songs. All in all, Amsterdam is a ride without a single dull moment.

Pic: Sanjay Yalavatti	Pic: Sanjay Yalavatti
Pic: Sanjay Yalavatti	Pic: Sanjay Yalavatti