Diving Down Under

Neelam Mathews recounts her unforgettable experience of diving at one of the world’s most amazing natural wonders, The Great Barrier Reef…

When I witnessed some insanely early risers walk atop the Harbour Bridge from my room at the Four Seasons Hotel, my immediate response was to attempt the same. Apart from the thrill it would automatically put me in the same league as Martina Navratilova and Kylie Minogue, among others, who have done the BridgeClimb.

I am certain that walking over the bridge, overlooking the beautiful city of Sydney, would inspire a voluminous amount of awe. But after a moment of reflection, I was rather inclined to sacrifice that feeling in exchange of some more shut-eye, as I had some bigger adventures lined up on my trip Down Under.

Water 'Aussie' World

Pics Courtesy Tourism Australia

Australians take sports very seriously and are involved in some sort of sport or the other. One needn't be involved in crazy, heart-racing activities such as trekking up the Ayers Rock or walking 20 miles along a steep mountain trail to get the adrenaline pumping.

There is more madness to be experienced by way of jet boating. What seems tame at first sight actually pumps up quite an adrenaline rush when the driver unleashes the power of the mighty 7.4 litre Chevy V8 engine to do radical fishtails and awesome spins. The jet boat ride built up the mood perfectly for the main agenda of my trip, diving and snorkeling at the Great Barrier Reef, Northern Queensland. “There is no better destination when it comes to scuba diving and snorkeling than the Great Barrier Reef,” claimed countless travel guides and brochures and I was quite eager to take a plunge in this underwater Eden.

Not a great swimmer, I had a large dose of anxiety mixed with anticipation. The thought, “how will I save myself if I am confronted by sharks,” kept running through my head like a broken record.

After a flight from Sydney to Hamilton Island, I was whisked onto a luxury yacht. One hour and a couple of champagne glasses later, I successfully drank my fears away. I arrived at the luxurious Hayman Island, the base for diving in the Outer Reef and exploring the many excellent reef dive sites close to the shore. Great Barrier Reef, comprising of 2,800 coral reefs thriving in clear shallow coastal waters of tropical sea boast of a diversity of species rivaled only by that of tropical rain forest. This amazing natural wonder deemed as a World Heritage site can also be seen by astronauts aboard a space shuttle!

On The Edge

While at Hayman Islands, I went for bush walks (which is basically walking through the rain forests) on graded tracks on the eight kilometer island circuit, kayaking and played a few sets of tennis. The Continental Shelf is an hour's catamaran ride from Hamilton Island. I took a 15-minute helicopter ride from Hayman Islands to Hamilton Island and found myself standing on the ship's platform - Pontoon - at the very edge of Australia's Continental Shelf an hour later gearing up for the dive.

Pontoon is a large platform that provides easy access into the water for divers, has changing rooms and a deck for sunbathing or enjoying a snack. It also has an underwater observatory for viewing coral and fish. Another fun way to view the coral life is get on the semi-subs that depart from the rear of the platform every fifteen minutes. But I am more interested in doing what I have always wanted to do - check out the reef as a diver.

I sat through 20 minutes of instructions along with 20 other brave heart. Our instructor spews out directions on how to breathe whilst under water, how to signal in case we are low on oxygen or if the ear pressure is not right, and how not to touch coral or jelly fish as it could be very painful. Meanwhile, all I'm wondering is whether I'll be able to remember all these pointers. But it is apparent that there is no compromise on safety. We are made to fill forms that ask for every medical detail. But they assure me that the information I give them will not be divulged to anyone. So I am relieved that my weight will still remain a secret.

The Final Dip

I began to feel like an extra from 'Robocop' with my diving suit on. But its not as complicated as it looks. I am soon strapped for the event with dials that show depth, dive time, oxygen, a device that controls buoyancy, and two regulators - one for breathing and one for backup. It also has a weight belt and a mask, all of which are pretty heavy.

Holding the ropes under the Pontoon to make a non-dramatic entry underwater, the dive instructor gently guides five of us down the rope trail to a depth of eight to ten metres. I soon begin to move like a fish in water. My heart pulsates - this time with excitement not fear - and I feel like the animated fish Nemo as I follow the instructor who is now pointing out coral formations and the fish. We spot Wally the Hump Headed Maori Wrasse that has a bluish-gray body with yellow lateral lines on its sides and an eagle ray glide by. I see amazing coral formations of all shapes and sizes with names that I cannot remember with a variety of multi-coloured fish occasionally brushing past me. But the highlight of my dive was when the instructor pointed out a shark, a once-in-a-lifetime encounter. And it doesn't attack! I begin to wonder at the stark contrast between the two worlds - the one above and the one under water. Despite being a foreigner in this environment, it was not as hostile as the one above water.

Bubbling Under

My ears are of little use underwater; everything sounds louder in the silence of the Reef. Even the bubbles generated when one exhales sound like drum-roll. But I soon get used to it. There are fish of every colour; bright, vibrant, almost glowing hues, they seem unreal, almost like neon signs.

Time seems to stand still for me and I have soaked in the beauty of an underwater world with a dazzling kaleidoscope of colour and brilliance for almost 30 minutes. And I am not going to forget this underwater landscape in a hurry. I am in a daze as I slowly pull myself back into the world of reality. Who would not be fascinated by the colourful beauty of the coral reef, the weird and wonderful smorgasbord of sea creatures and the complicated, and sometimes vicious, ecosystem in which these creatures live?

There is a generous lunch laid out, but I am on a high. A bite into a sandwich later and I am ready to join a snorkeling tour - this time without the heavy gear except a mask, a snorkel and a lifebuoy. Like a duck on its back, I am underwater once again, staying close to my instructor who moves in a soft zig-zag fashion along the water. I find myself mesmerised by the beauty - the water is warm and I realise that the most timid of swimmers can master the basic skills of snorkeling. It is an experience that is not to be missed, especially if a 'snorkel safari' like mine is accompanied by a marine biologist who gives one fascinating insight into reef life after another. I feel like Alice in Wonderland, surrounded by an endless kaleidoscope of spotted, striped and banded fish, creating optical illusions, teasing me with a thesaurus of colours. They always seem to shoot out of reach whenever I try to grasp these glittering fish, almost like these moments of magic that I am unwilling to let go.