Taste Of Asia In New York

Spice Market is the latest addition to the terminally trendy Meatpacking District. Housed in a converted two-storey former warehouse, the restaurant by the renowned and wildly inventive French Chef, Jean-Georges Vongerichten is a veritable fantasy land for Asian Street Food. Entering Spice Market is like stepping into a different world of worn teak beams and balustrades, soaring palms and lavender silk lanterns, which stretch from the 16-foot tall ceiling down into the basement grotto. The decor, replete with Asian artifacts, ornate wooden chairs and low tables force a posture of relaxation.

The restaurant's vast space - sprawling and unbelievably packed - is immediately disorienting yet instantly welcoming. Good thing that the four of us, Alyona, myself and friends Rajesh and Nina Bharadwaj had reserved a table. The first sight that hits you is of the bar framed in ornate teak stalls. Seated at one of the very small tables overlooking the sunken lounge, we looked about, sipping our drinks. Alyona's was a Fruit Punch and Nina tried the Ginger Margherita (USD 12). Our starter was Shaved Tuna, Chili Tapioca, Asian Pear and Lime (USD 12.50). It's a cold soup of sorts, a shallow bowl of fragrant coconut juice and milk steeped in lemon grass and kaffir lime leaves, dotted with morsels of raw tuna, caviar egg-shaped spicy tapioca pearls, slices of jicama, red pepper and Asian pear. The total effect was quite refreshing. I would rate this as excellent! Also tried the Shrimp Cakes with Cucumber Peanut Relish (USD 12), but better was the Black Pepper Shrimps (USD 14.50). I liked it as it had dried pineapple in it. Apart from its presentation, Chicken Skewer with Peanut Sauce (USD 9), was disappointing.

Whereas the appetizers showcased much of the evening's artistry, the entrees evoked mixed feelings. Cod with Malaysian Chilli (USD 19) was really moist, and perfectly 'just done' and liked by all. Especially enjoyed the flavours of fresh Thai basil. The Pork Vindaloo (USD16) served in a copper kadai was not just the sort of vindaloo we would get back home. But the pork was cooked well and it was tasty, hot, sour and a little sweet topped with scallion julienne. What disappointed me was Vegetables in Green Curry (USD 10). 'The choice of serving bowl is wrong and as Rajesh commented, the vegetables can’t be seen in the black bowl. I also found no real Thai flavour in it.

The Lime Noodles (USD 7) were a little on the sweeter side but with mint pasta, crushed peanuts and sesame seeds it was on the whole very nice. Also good was the Ginger Rice (USD 7), a dish that was never meant to thrill but does here. The rice was firm, each round bead glazed in oil and fragrant with ginger and scallion. An egg cooked sunny side up with ginger and garlic was flipped onto the rice. As you dipped your spoon into it, the egg spread and coated the rice grains, making them creamy, lovely. We could have left it at that. But at the waiter's recommendation, ordered Ovaltine Kulfi and Green Tea Ice Cream. The kulfi was dense and malty, like a Snickers bar coated with spiced popcorn and fennel seeds. You got to have this on a slightly emptier stomach to enjoy it!

Spice Market 403 W. 13th St. (West Village) at Ninth Ave, New York, Ph : 212-675-2322