Luxury On Wheels

As the Deccan Odyssey commences its second season Achal Dhruva relives the memorable experience of enjoying the romance of the rails in royal comfort.

Humans are highly adaptable creatures, especially when it comes to comfort. All it took was probably an hour on-board the luxury train, Deccan Odyssey to throw all my romantic notions about unreserved and second-class train journeys, that have long been eulogised as the window to the heart of India, on to the tracks. After all, who wouldn't succumb to ostentatious luxury, beginning with a valet handing you a tall ice-cold glass of refreshing juice as you check into your suite on-board, the joy of unpacking your suitcase and arranging your clothes in the wooden closet followed by a long nice hot shower and then tucking yourself under the blankets on a soft bed in air-conditioned comfort to watch the latest `Bollywood item number,' on the plasma television. And all this was just in my suite, the tip of the iceberg of the myriad and unique offerings designed to pamper you silly and make you feel like royalty.

Deccan Odyssey offers the best of both worlds - romance of the rails with five-star luxury, and attractive destinations showcasing the cultural, historical and scenic beauty of Maharashtra and Goa on its seven-day round trip from Mumbai. The Rs 32-crore train, a joint venture between the Maharashtra government, the Railway ministry and the Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation (MTDC) was flagged off by then Prime Minster, Atal Behari Vajpayee on January 16, 2004. Positioned against the great luxury trains of the world like the Orient Express and the Royal Scotsman, Deccan Odyssey is India's third and the eighth luxury train in the world. A flagship tourism product of MTDC aimed at placing Maharashtra on the map of premium tourist destinations, the train comprises 21 carriages hosting a total of 48 suites including four Presidential Suites and a staff of 50 with two valets per cabin catering to 96 passengers.

Emerging from my plush haven (suite), I began my exploration of the train but couldnt get further as I stumbled upon Mumbai Hi - the bar. The entire coach has been designed tastefully with easy chairs, sofas, small round tables, and a well-stocked bar with premium labels of liquor and the best wines. It was sheer delight to sip a drink out of a proper glass and smoke in peace on a train, after years of drinking surreptitiously out of a Coke or Pepsi bottle and fugitively having a smoke near stinking loos.

Dinner at Peshwa II, one of the two restaurants on-board was also a grand affair. The interiors of the restaurant, like the entire train recreate the opulence of Maratha royalty and have been designed by a firm that specialises in the interiors of heritage hotels. A three-course meal, comprising a selection of regional cuisine and continental dishes, was served by stewards dressed as Mavlas (Maratha warriors during the reign of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj). The catering and housekeeping on-board the train is outsourced to the Taj Group of Hotels. As I tucked in on the first night I was quite abuzz with anticipation of the excitement and pampering that would be dished out during the remainder of the journey.

Presidential Suite bedroom	Welcome at Bhoke station
The train boasts of a fully equipped spa Pic: Mexy Xavier	View of the entrance of Sindhudurg Fort Pic: Achal Dhruva

The next morning we got down at Bhoke station before Ratnagiri on the Konkan Railway route to a rousing welcome of drums and `tutari' (a kind of bugle) by the locals, a sequence which would be repeated at almost all stations. We set off for Rai Jetty by an air-conditioned bus for a two-hour boat cruise on the backwaters to Jaighad Fort. The backwaters of the Konkan region, though relatively unknown, are as enchanting as the ones in Kerala.

Jaighad Fort, one of the numerous forts dotting Maharashtra, is rather small. Perched on a cliff it offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the sea on one side and the creek snaking through lush green foliage on the other. As is the bane of package trips, there is little time "to stand and stare," and we were off to MTDC's Ganpatipule Beach Resort for lunch. Ganpatipule Beach with its long strip of silver sands and blue waters has become a very popular weekend getaway. Post lunch, which was accompanied by a folk dance show and a visit to the famous Ganpati Temple on the beach, we were off to Ratnagiri to board the train.

Conference coach, the only one of its kind on luxury trains in India	Traditional welcome of tikka and aarti
Guest participating in the folk programme during the boat cruise	Peshwa II, one of the two restaurants Pic: Mexy Xavier

It had been a long but exciting day in the sun and I decided to check out the health spa car equipped with steam, beauty parlour and gymnasium. After a good massage followed by a steam bath I was all set for a blissful night's sleep.

The sea-fort of Sindhudurgh, two kms from Malvan Jetty is an architectural marvel and was the first stop on the next day's itinerary of sightseeing from Sindhudurg station. Our next halt was at Tarkarli Beach, yet another gorgeous and relatively untouched beach. The boat cruise on the backwaters of Tarkarli Creek to Walaval Jetty was even more scenic than the one on the first day and the sight of fish leaping out of water had us riveted. From Walaval Jetty, we headed for Sawantwadi, the last major town before crossing into Goa. After a brief walk through the town, with a visit to the Palace and the Arts and Crafts centre to witness an enthralling cultural show, we were back on the train.

Palace in Sawantwadi Pic: Achal Dhruva	Aerial view of the Ganpatipule Beach
Mumbai-Hi, the watering hole on-board Pic: Mexy Xavier	Boat cruise on the Tarkarli Creek

The next day saw us in Goa, and we did the rounds of the most popular tourist spots like the Basilica of Bom Jesus, Se Cathedral, Old Goa, etc. We boarded the train at Madgaon station rather early that evening for the long run to the next halt, Pune. One may have felt cheated about not being able to enjoy a night out in town in Goa, but the conference coach on Deccan Odyssey - the only luxury train in India to have one - came to the rescue. The conference coach, Samvad, is equipped with a state-of-the-art LCD TV and audio system, and is designed in such a manner that it can be converted into a party zone, and that's exactly what we did, and rocked the night away.

While I had to hop off at Pune station due to work commitments and miss the ensuing journey to Aurangabad to visit World Heritage sites of Ellora and Ajanta and Nashik, the three nights on-board were easily the most memorable of train journeys I have experienced till date. The cost of the Deccan Odyssey journey is as luxurious as the experience, and may not be for everyone, but oh what an experience! Also, those hard pressed for time can opt for the shorter version of the trip (either Mumbai-Pune, or Pune-Mumbai).

After the luxurious living on Deccan Odyssey it was tough getting back to the reality of normal train travel from Pune to Mumbai.

Se Cathedral in Panjim Pic: Achal Dhruva	Scenic view of the backwaters from Jaighad Fort Pic: Achal Dhruva