Italian Delight

Rashmi Uday Singh’s Good Food Guide

Do you remember the time when only the rich, fat, old uncles were called “gourmets” and everybody else who loved food was a “glutton”? Fortunately all that has changed, we are now “Foodies” and “Foodism” is the new “ism,” which is great for planet earth. It's understood in every language and it crosses all borders. I encounter it wherever I travel. Am just back from London and Italy, a confirmed hyper-caffienated and over-animated Italophile. And what do I find? Italy in Juhu!

Why am I suddenly transported back to Capri? Capri, where the food has intensity of flavour and unparalleled freshness, the air is fragrant with the freshness of lemons. Could it be the new Chef Sebastiano Masterangelo's South Italian accent and his brand new menu from his corner of Italy? Or just that exuberant whiff of sliced `nimbu?' Go over the floor-lit bridge, past the bustling open kitchen and enter this large, contemporary, three-level Italian restaurant, Mezzo Mezzo. Wood and natural stone, are offset by sleek black candles and fresh flowers. Knock back a few drinks at the long bar and munch on complimentary garlic pesto bread with an olive and capsicum dip. Opt for the wooden level for casual dining and the carpeted one for a more formal experience.

Chef Masterangelo's new menu is lighter, has more vegetables, more seafood, pasta and the spark of fresh basil pesto. He makes a superb carpaccio of garoupa, refreshing with a citrus dressing and bell pepper, even the thin and crisp white pizza with arugula leaves and parmesan, the pomfret with a lemon sauce take me back to my Italian holiday. So does the aldente pasta with roasted veggies, super risotto. I don't enjoy his lamb dish as much but I love the home-style way he serves the superlative Tiramisu---in a large bowl.

The affable and smiling Italian chef's, Caprese Salad (Rs 350), Calamari with lobster mousse (Rs 450) and home made, unerringly cooked spinach and ricotta stuffed ravioli with basil (Rs 370) are outstanding. Must end with the almond parfait with the zesty orange sauce (Rs 270) or the home-style "Tiramisu" (Rs 290). Anand Mahindra I hope you are reading this, because your favourite, "melanzana parmigiana" has also been introduced along with 35 brand new dishes.

P.S: Remember to end your meal with the Italian coffees, and homemade pralines. Upbeat and friendly service, super lavish Sunday brunch (Antipasti bar, juice counter and a dessert counter, pastas, pizzas, grills and stews-Rs 1,100 along with unlimited Indian Sparkling, Red and White wine, Sangrias. The spread is Rs 900 without alcohol.)

A handsome private dining room for twelve is worth booking for a special, lavish occasion. Will somebody tell me why this restaurant is not open for lunch?