Dreamy Shore

Devika Rajan recaptures part of her childhood as she rejuvenates mind, body and soul at the Kadavu - A Backwater Resort in Kerala.

Often the journey turns out to be a trailer of the destination and our drive from Bangalore to Kadavu - A Backwater Resort recently was a perfect example. `Back of beyond,' both figuratively and literally, is how one can best describe Kadavu. Cruising through Bandipur forest on the border of Karnataka and Kerala and the scenic verdure of Wayanad, enjoying the cool of a Kerala spring that always harbours the hint of a shower, built up the mood for this getaway on the banks of River Chaliyar close to Calicut.

As we drew closer to Calicut or Khozhikode as it's called today (you might not get the pronunciation right if your tongue is not trained to use the languages south of the Vindhyas) we were told to look out for a village - again some longish name. From this village, which we were told was just a stone's throw away, Kadavu was easily accessed. People in those parts must have the capability to throw stones quite a distance, as we drove for more than 45 minutes with stops every two kilometers asking for the particular village. At all stops people helpfully directed us to the elusive village telling us that we had just two more kilometers to go. We didn't mind it so much as it added to our experience of discovering Kadavu nestling in the breathtaking backwaters of the Malabar region of northern Kerala.

Finally on reaching, the first glimpse from the outside - a large five-star type construction - belied what lay within. Once the gates were shut behind us there opened a totally new vista of rest, relaxation and almost sinful rejuvenation, which one could scarcely imagine. As we checked in late in the evening we curbed our temptation for immediate exploration of the property sprawling over ten acres and decided on an early dinner. After all, we had the next three days at what was already promising to be a memorable stay.

We kicked away our sandals and walked barefoot on the grainy wooden floor of our room, relishing the resonance of foot meeting wood. It brought back a flood of childhood memories of growing up in Kerala, running through the house and backyard without the restraint of footwear. We opened the windows to a balcony sit-out, and took in the darkening forms of the moist palm fronds that whooshed with every breath of wind. The sounds of the crickets and the mesmerising hum of insects transported me to another level of awareness, and I could feel the fatigue of the long journey ebbing away.

Dinner at the Ootupura (house of dining), an indoor restaurant serving a generous buffet had me tucking into my favourites in local cuisine - appams (rice hoppers with their swollen middles and starched borders) and 'ishtew' (stew). A Pinacolada, with its coconutty flavour, went best with my mood and the ambience.

The next morning, after a late breakfast at the Ootupura, we made our way to the reception counter, where we got a low-down on all the facilities available at the resort, and details of the local places that could be accessed for sightseeing. Walking through the expanse, over red-tiled pathways covered with foliage and sudden unexpected glimpses of water, whether it was the shimmer of the Chaliyar River, or the deep blue of the swimming pool, we made our way to the Ayurveda Centre.

An Ayurveda massage was on the top of our must-do list at the resort, as its Centre has a Green Leaf Certification from the Government of Kerala Tourism department, the highest awarded to Ayurveda clinics in the state. Kadavu's centre follows the tradition set up by the Thaikkattu Mooss family, which is renowned in Ayurveda. In fact Neelakanta Mooss was awarded a Padmashree in 1992 in recognition for his contributions to Ayurveda. At first it seemed we would be disappointed. A group of Kenyan tourists had booked in advance a ten-day treatment package and all the staff and massage rooms were occupied. Seeing our crestfallen faces they told us that they would try to fit us in. So we continued our tour of the property.

The ten-acre expanse is a mix of manicured lawns and a profusion of gracefully swaying palms. The structures sport the typical Malabar architecture with extensive use of laterite, palm wood and gabled red tiles. Set right on the waterfront are 17 cottages with wide spacious balconies offering a spectacular view of the winding Chaliyar River while the rooms also have large balconies facing the river. Aesthetically done up, the rooms and cottages are equipped with all modern conveniences to provide complete comfort and luxury.

Much to our delight we got a call from the Ayurveda Centre within an hour and a really relaxing ninety minutes ensued. First a vigorous rub-down with a viscous concoction of healing oils, then a bath with shampoo - no soap or chemicals, just 'cherupayaru-podi' (powdered green gram or moong) which leaves one's skin baby-soft after just one wash. I initially thought that the massage was just a means for relaxing, but was surprised at the diagnostic skills of the personnel. The lady who attended to me informed me that there appeared to be something wrong with my elbow, which although I had not mentioned it to her had been giving me mild trouble then. On her recommendation I met the doctor at their clinic, who suggested a herbal medicated oil for joint aches - all this at very little extra charge. And it worked wonders. The centre, we found, has a stream of regulars including quite a few from abroad, who come on annual visits for treatments, detoxification and destressing.

The other highly recommended activity in Kadavu is boating, either in a traditional wooden boat, or in a motorised one for longer forays into the backwaters. Gliding on the placid waters (hardly a ripple broke the surface) in the wooden boat with only the occasional twitter of birds breaking the silence fills you with serenity and is excellent for destressing.

The picture postcard view of a bungalow on a hillock across the river from the Maikhana Restaurant also provides a similar feel. As we sat staring at the panorama I felt a sensation of slowing down of my pulse, as if my body was readjusting pace to the rhythms of nature around us. We simply forgot to place our order.

In the evenings we spent our time at the amphitheatre, sitting on stone seats watching the controlled grace of the Kalarippayatu performers, as they leapt lithely, bringing alive an ancient art. Their perfectly chiseled bodies gleamed in the half-light as I harked back to the tales and legends of the brave warriors of the Malabar, Thachholi Othenan and others, stories that I had heard in childhood. The family joined me in my flashback as we watched the minna-minni (glow worms) that flashed sporadically all around us. It was sheer delight, as I hadn't seen a minna-minni in years. In fascination my daughter leaned towards me as I recounted places and tales unfamiliar to her. The spell remained unbroken as we strolled the paths of Kadavu for more than an hour after the performance.

A large part of the next day was spent in local sightseeing, but it was too short a time to visit all the must-see places around. But we were more than happy with just a short foray to the world outside, as we could not bear to be away from the enchanting environs of Kadavu. After all we had just three days at this dreamy shore (Kadavu means shore in Malayalam) and to use a cliché, it got over too quickly. While leaving we reached a unanimous decision to return to this luxurious lap of nature.