Knotty Affair

An integral part of the corporate attire ties are perfect style statements claims Meher Castelino as she unravels the latest trends.

The fashionable noose around a man's neck - the necktie - according to history serves no particular purpose yet it has turned into the only item in a man's wardrobe with which he can express himself and make a style statement.

This long strip of cloth in varied designs and fabrics has turned into a status symbol enabling a man to express his many moods and personality by opting for different colours, patterns and fabrics. Here is a male accessory that speaks a silent language; therefore it is little wonder that a lot of thought and care is put into the selection of the right tie for the right occasion, thus turning the business into a multi-million rupee spinner.

Patterns of ties are many and yet, only a handful have gained acceptance as each has its distinct appeal. Stripes speak of authority, while polka dots are considered fastidious and paisleys are supposed to be blithe but foulards are reliable.

Trends in Ties

"When we talk of trends in ties and their patterns we are moving back to the old favourites like stripes, geometric designs and prints, along with the ever popular paisleys as well as the foulards, which are very much in demand. But the designs are on the minimalistic side inspired by the Hermes design," informs Salman Noorani, Managing Director, Zodiac Clothing Co. Ltd., which is responsible for branding ties in India and turning this simple accessory into a coveted item for men.

Fabrics for ties have to be just right to get the perfect fall and finish for the knot at the shirt collar, which must sport a tiny dimple to denote perfection. Silk is a favourite but for daily wear polyesters and blends as well as tonal knits have been preferred.

But as Noorani informs, "Woven stripes and jacquard designs are making an appearance on the fashion charts for the new season. When it comes to stripes there are combinations of the extra narrow pinstripes to the robust widths of the broad ones."

The multi-toned stripe arrange-ments are aimed at a coordinated overall image, which is most popular amongst high-powered executives. It is important to note that a fine silk tie should be well lined or else one might have an ongoing battle with a not too perfect knot. Hand spun and raw silk makes for excellent ties. Textured jacquard, as Noorani suggested is a favourite with the high fashion males who want to project the ultra discreet executive look.

Wearing the Tie

The size of the tie in its width is governed by the current trends of the collar stand. The standard length varies between 140-143 cms. When worn, the tip of the tie should fall just above your belt buckle. It should neither be too short or too long. Regarding the width of the tie at the blade it increases or decreases also in relation to the width of the suit labels. "Since widths vary every few years the fashion directions point to the ties being a little narrower but in the mass market the width is still around 7 cms," informs Noorani.

Colours in Vogue

Colour has always played a more important part in the selection of a tie besides its design, since it is the colour choice that projects the mood of the wearer and his style. The most useful ties are in solid colours and one, which can go well with any suit or shirt. "The current colours in vogue in Europe are bright shades for men. So look out for hues like pink, blue, navy, red and the ever popular, bourdeau. This season lilac is making a re-entry into the tie market along with a new colour called papaya, which comprises a mix of orange and pink," reveals Noorani.

The Italian prediction for men's ties points to a vibrant and flamboyant collection of shirts in shades of sun yellow, orange, pink, blue, acid green and obviously the ties are in coordination with them creating a stunning picture for the hitherto sober male wardrobe.

If one does not want to follow the rainbow colours for ties then it would be wise to have the basic tie colours like all shades of blue along with maroon, which adjusts admirably with grey, white, navy and black. A rich brown with splashes of beige, khaki, ecru and burnt orchid are also good neutral colours to have in the tie collection.

The Windsor Knot

Select your Knot

One of the most difficult things for a man to do is get his tie knot right. Practicing helps but selecting the right knot for the shirt collar is important. The knot at the neck should not be too tight to crumple the collar or too loose to hang around the neck. The knot must sit comfortably under the collar giving an overall impression of smartness and style.

There are three types of knots that are normally used for ties. They are the full Windsor, the four-in-hand knot and the half Windsor. The Windsor knot has the fuller end of the tie looping twice through the neck circle of the tie while the four-in-hand knot is the more conventional popular method. The half Windsor is slightly complicated and needs to be practiced before attaining perfection.

The shape of the shirt collar generally determines the tie and the tie knot that should be worn with it. The button-down collar works with a full or half Windsor or four-in-hand knots. A round collar takes a four-in-hand and a regular collar accommodates a half Windsor or four-in- hand knot. A spread collar takes a full Windsor knot and if one is very stylish and likes to wear a pin collar then the tight four- in-hand knot is ideal. After tying the knot the narrower end of the tie should never be tucked in the shirt but should be slipped into the manufacturer's label stitched on the broad end.

Accessories like pins, tie clips, and collar bars add a dash of glitter and complete the total look.

The Half-Windsor Knot

Matching the Shirt/Tie Combo

Combining the right ties with the shirts is often an art and can create the right impact required. A solid tie could effectively subdue a loud shirt. In coordinating solids, most men believe they should not team a solid tie with a solid shirt and suit. If chosen well, however an all-solid combination could be most striking. For instance a grey suit, a light blue shirt and a wine coloured tie makes for sheer elegance if one is a conventional dresser. At times it is advised that if the suit and tie are striped keep the shirt plain. If the shirt and jacket are checked keep the tie solid. Of course, one cannot wear solids everyday. But a businessman's wardrobe should consist of at least a solid blue tie and one other solid colour. The classic look in executive dressing comprises solid silk ties with embossed work. But the most practical rule is simply to avoid overpowering one's appearance. Wearing a patterned suit, shirt and ties successfully is not unheard of but it is better to have one item lead and have the others follow.

In contemporary fashion it is quite acceptable to wear a matching shirt and tie of the same colour and fabric with a contrasting suit. This combination has been popularised by celebrities and the glamour set who want to make a striking fashion statement but many corporate heads may shy away from it preferring the more conventional options.

The Bow Tie

It will be interesting to note that the bow tie is also part of the tie family and is considered a must for formal wear with wing collar shirts and tuxedos but bow ties are worn with normal two piece collars too.

In many cases the bow tie has tried to overtake the tie like during the 1940s when dancer Fred Astaire made it a fashion statement in his Hollywood movies. The plus point of the bow tie is that it adapts itself to a variety of fabrics and colours from satin, suede, cotton, velvet and hues like black, grey, gold, silver and even prints. The width of the bow tie also moves with fashion dictates depending on the collar it is worn with.