Jungle Nook

Luxuriating in nature, is how Achal Dhruva defines his experience at Wildernest Nature Resort, Goa, where he takes a walk in the clouds, chills in an infinity pool and bonds with 'Earth'.

It's not everyday that one gets to know 'Earth'. The encounter opened up new vistas of smells, sounds and sights for me. It was bonding at first sight and I was thrilled to be invited to explore his small and wonderful world. Bursting with playful energy, typical of any two-year old Labrador, Earth hurried me on the narrow meandering paths cutting through the jungle, introducing me to his numerous pals.

Vanzara Falls	Chorla Falls
Infinity Pool

We first said hello to 'chocolate pansy,' a fluttering butterfly and a little further we exchanged gossip with Red Munia perched on an overhanging branch. Earth, I realised quickly, is gregarious and treats everyone and everything with an equal affable interest, right from the short and fat Tiger Coral centipede, crawling dandily dressed in rich dark orange and black, to the chattering black-faced Hanuman langoor. Earth also introduced me to some fascinating characters among his large circle of acquaintances, like the tiny Malabar gliding frog that can leap a cool 12 feet and the reclusive Slenderloris, a small primate with large brooding eyes, both exclusive residents of the Western Ghats.

In a span of 20 minutes, Earth opened my eyes to probably more than what I had known till date about the 'birds and the bees'. And just when I thought he could surprise me no more, Earth managed to spring one with a wag of his tail. I had been so engrossed with him and his 'meet and greet' that I failed to notice the trail was steadily winding upwards. All of a sudden we emerged from the vegetation to a small clearing and "Wow!" was the solitary exclamation I could muster. I was looking down at an almost impregnable carpet of green stretching all around as far as the eye could see, or more precisely, into Goa, Karnataka and Maharashtra.

View of the resrot from Sunset Point	Slenderloris
Bonding around the campfire	One for the view

Standing at Sunset Point (highest point at 819 metres) of Wildernest Nature Resort and perhaps the second highest in Goa, I realised that I was looking at a relatively unseen and unknown face of this popular destination. Mesmerised by the expanse and the silent grandeur of the Western Ghats, I stood riveted watching the panorama of wilderness slowly being wiped out by the enveloping mist. Just before the white-out, that reduced visibility to less than 15 feet, I spied a few roofs in tiny, scattered clearings lower down the mountain slope. I was amazed at the way the resort blended with its surroundings. I was even more amazed when Nirmal Kulkarni, the young director of the resort and a naturalist, informed me that the Wildernest property spreads over 450 acres of the semi-evergreen, moist, mixed deciduous forest spanning three states, which they converted into a nature sanctuary, Swapnaganda. Just three acres has been developed for the resort.

Wildernest, located on the eastern fringe of north Goa, bordering Maharashtra and Karnataka, high in the Chorla Ghats, is a haven for all nature lovers. It is a dream of three individuals, Nirmal and two other directors, Capt. Nitin Dhond and his father Pandurang Dhond, which they have turned to reality. "Capt. Dhond first bought a large tract of land in the area to stop destruction of forest cover due to mining. Later, with a lot of support from various groups, he managed to buy larger tracts of land, cutting off all access to the mines, and deemed the entire area a sanctuary. We decided to set up the resort so that people could experience and enjoy nature," informed Nirmal.

The 16-kilometre stretch snaking up the Chorla Ghats from Keri village in Goa, is a preview of the 'wet-n-wild' monsoon experience awaiting you at the resort. As the road climbs higher, cutting through the jungle, pockets of mist swirl around and numerous little waterfalls dot the rock face. One catches fleeting glimpses of the ever-expanding carpet of green below.

Guests chilling out in the Infinity Pool	Villagers performing a folk dance
Transport at the resort	Randhan Restaurant

The resort, perched at 800 metres, comprising 16 cottages (nine with a forest view, and seven with a valley view), a restaurant and adjoining bar are all neatly tucked in the vegetation and connected with narrow walkways. Walking to my room, I couldn't resist stopping over at its garden bar, aptly named Cloud Nine what with the perpetual mist hovering around the place. The atmosphere was too tempting and a heavy shower completed the effect. The ambience at night was even better: watching fireflies dancing in the mist and listening to Nirmal recounting his close encounters with big cats in various wildlife sanctuaries across the country. There is plenty of wildlife around the resort and the roll-call has the likes of sambar, gaur, mouse deer, leopard, sloth bear, and 140 different species of birds including crested-serpent eagle, bonalis eagle, Indian pitta, hornbills, Malabar whistling thrust, Nilgiri wood pigeon and two visiting tigers during the summers. A luminescent fungi, found in abundance in the forest during monsoon, is yet another fascinating natural wonder at the resort.

Wildernest is a perfect hideaway for all seasons but it is at its 'mistical' best during the rains. It offers city slickers a village experience albeit one with all modern conveniences although post monsoon, guests are transported from the main gates to the reception (a distance of 750 metres) in a bullock cart. Folk dances by local villagers around a camp-fire, sit-outs in machans at night to spot wildlife only add to the village feel. The local flavour also figures in the cuisine. Randhan, the 35-cover restaurant features cuisine of the Ghats, a representation of local ethnic delicacies of Maharashtra, Goa and Karnataka like fish curry, prawns curry, mutton sukha, nachnichi bhakari, rice bhakari, matki usal, etc. Local produce like mushroom and roots is also included in the menu during monsoon.

Cloud 9, the garden bar	Simple yet aesthetically designed rooms of the cottages
All woodwork: Interiors of the restaurant	Malabar Pied Hornbill

Meals at the restaurant, constructed with huge logs of the local accaia tree and adorned with well-designed all-wooden furniture, usually turn out to be long drawn-out affairs. Its not the service that is to be blamed but a combination of the finger-licking food (you are sure to help yourselves to a second and even third helping) and the enchanting valley view dominated by Vanzara, the 143-metre high twin waterfall, which make you linger.

In Goa, do as the Goans do, and a siesta seemed the most logical thing after a hearty lunch. However, the cottages are so snug and comfortable that one doesn't need a reason to curl up under the blankets. The wooden cottages comprise of a spacious room with an attached toilet and a porch. Simplicity and understated elegance are the hallmarks of the aesthetically designed cottages. Instead of blocking it out, effort has been made to make nature an integral part of the stay. And a clear indication of this is the huge glass panel for a wall that faces the bed. This glass panel is like a larger version of flat screen plasma TV, where you can catch the constantly changing hues and moods of nature, thick foliage or the valley, depending on where your cottage is. And mercifully, there is no TV to intrude your process of self-discovery. The sound of rain pattering on the roof, mixed with the cacophony of insects, is the best lullaby I have ever heard.

Equally unforgettable is the roar of Chorla Waterfall resonating in your ears. Though almost a dwarf in comparison to Vanzara, the 40-metre Chorla fall is quickly accessible after an easy hour-long trek, which is worth it considering the relaxing massage you can get just sitting under the waterfall. Two other small waterfalls along the way are ideal to build up the mood.

While the waterfall and rambling walks may be the primary activities during monsoon, October brings with it an array of adventure activity options like rock climbing, rapp elling and camping. A nature interpretation centre is also expected to begin operations from the same month.

However, the lasting image of Wildernest is its pool. An absolutely amazing and crazy idea, the Infinity pool is built on a ridge overlooking the Vanzara Fall valley. I have taken a dip in infinity pools before that seemingly merged with lakes and the sea. But this was the first time I was floating in one that overlooked a valley. It is a mind-blowing experience to watch the swirling mist slowly rising from the valley and wrap you in its cool embrace as you execute a joyous flip fit enough to embarrass a dolphin.

In the other direction I could see the Sunset Point through the gaps in the canopy of trees, a mute spectator to my wild antics. Of all the reasons for returning to Wildernest, the pool would certainly be on top of the list.