ISSUE OF JUNE 2005  
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‘Scent’asionally Yours

Tanya Siquiera puts together the ultimate guide to some of the best in perfumes ‘pour homme’..

You have a potentially huge sales pitch…a big interview lined up or a night out… and if you're lucky, possibly pull off a date. Thanks to your own good taste, and a few tips from fashion gurus, you are now style-savvy, but what do you splash on before stepping out? An oft ignored but potentially, one of our most vital senses is our olfactory sense. Helen Keller summed it up best saying 'Smell is a potent wizard that transports you across thousands of miles and all the years you have lived.'

In today's day, the world of perfume is clouded with pretension, prohibitive prices and high-gloss ad campaigns. But any perfume lover would admit to being very meticulous about choices that he/she makes when deciding on that one signature scent. Most probably use the trial and error method to stock the shelf with a range of fragrances that work best for them. People choose perfumes for a number of reasons - the brand, beauty of packaging, etc. but the foremost reason - the 'scent' itself.

The Aroma Trail

Although, nearly 60 per cent of the perfume market in India still belongs to women fragrances, male perfumes are slowing emerging as a segment to reckon with. Men of all ages are waking up to the potential of 'spend good…feel good' factor thereby spending more 'rupaiya' for a good fragrance.

Younger men's preferences still run into the light, sporty and unisex fragrances, like Ferrari, a Polo Sport by Ralph Lauren that blends crisp citrus, sweet spices and Oriental woods for a fresh scent. The active man can appreciate the Davidoff Echo (Rs 2,880) and Herrera by Carolina Herrera (Rs 2,100), which has a sharp and oriental tone that combines tobacco, citrus and musk. A perfect choice if you want to come across as sophisticated and mature. This one gets the thumbs up for daytime and office wear. Like Dunhill (Rs 2,550), this is something more conservative and elegant. Not too strong, but, not very subtle either. Another relatively new entrant that's a hit with younger men is Hummer Cologne by Riviera. This manly scent possesses a blend of cardamom, thyme, tonka bean, leather, amber and sandalwood. An invigorating, fresh, daytime scent.

Older men prefer spicy, woody and the ever-seductive musk. A few fragrances perfect for the more mature man imbued with a host of heady qualities include the likes of Obsession by Calvin Klein (Rs 2,725), which is sweet and woody, blending lavender with mandarin and nutmeg.

Dunhill by Dunhill, this woody fragrance is spicy and fresh with a blend of fresh jasmine, lemon, sandalwood, and warm spices. This cologne is far subtler than most fragrances introduced today, and has a certain conservative charm.

Another favourite on this list is Hugo by Hugo Boss. Slightly woody, this refreshing citrus aroma is spicy yet smooth, thanks to the lavender and amber fragrances. Slightly reminiscent of CK's Escape (Rs 2,725), but not as strong or sweet this one is right for just about any time of the day and is perfect for clubbing and bar-hopping.

Fragrances that appeal to both younger as well as more mature guys have citrus or basically fruity undertones and can work well as office wear. Some of these include the popular scents like CK Escape that embodies a fresh, adventurous charm, CK Eternity (Rs 2,725) that morph jasmine, sage, basil, and rosewood, and is recommended for daytime wear.

Acqua Di Gio by Giorgio Armani is also perfect to take on the sweltering Indian heat. Interestingly, both the men and women really like this one. It has a strong citrus tone combined with a hint of rosemary and offers a spicy aquatic freshness.

For those who are a tad more observant, one would notice that branding is almost as important, if not more as the packaging or the scent itself. Sports affectionados might just prefer a strong Ferrari fragrance like Ferrari #1 (Rs 2,100) by Ferrari launched By The Design House Of Ferrari in 2001. One of the more popular perfumes of the line, it possesses a blend of oakmoss, lime, nutmeg and ginger and is recommended for casual wear.

Buying perfume is often subject to a multitude of factors since heat increases the intensity of a fragrance. There are certain fragrances that are more appropriate for summer while the other stronger scents would be better for winter use. A good guideline to follow is to wear lighter scents in summer while stronger scents in winter. Citrus and musky scents are perfect for summer while orientals are better for winter. An ideal time to try out some of the warmer headier fragrances would be in winter as fragrances linger longer during this time of the year.

 

 

Timeless Classics

Just like good old Casablanca, there are some scents that stand the test of time and will remain favourites for years to come. Some that enjoy being on the inner circle include Cool Water by Davidoff (Rs 3,050) - This one's a classic and a` keeper.’ You can hardly go wrong with this refreshing fragrance that has a hint of amber and smoothness of lavender. This aroma definitely gets the thumbs up from both sexes. It is recommended for use during the day, and its subtle aroma is perfect for the office or an outing. Just make sure you have this around the bachelor pad or in your travel tote.

Other evergreen include L'Eau D'Issey by Issey Miyake and Chrome by Loris Azzaro. Citrus with a hint of tobacco leaf aroma L'Eau D'Issey is a very sexy scent, almost tangy, once again, depending on your natural body scent, Issey Miyake bares a resemblance to Dolce & Gabbana, as both colognes blend tobacco and lemon scents.

Chrome is a unisex fragrance and is refreshing and fruity, possessing a bouquet of flowers. It is slightly similar to CK One in terms of citrus scent, but is far sharper and not as fruity. Its ability to retain the fragrance right through the day makes it a summer favourite and is recommended for your evening soirees.

This brings us to one more that deserves a mention. With a clean, tangy aroma of freshly cut citrus fruit, CK One is individualistic and all-inclusive for both him and her. This light, relaxed scent evokes a balanced feeling between brightness and sensuality.

 

Hot Spots

The best spots to apply cologne are the areas of your body that produce the most body heat. Body heat activates the cologne, thereby increasing the strength of the smell and making it last. To achieve maximum results when wearing cologne, apply it to your wrists, neck, arm pits, and behind the ears. When using a cologne spray, do 'not' spray behind your ears, spray it onto your hands and wipe it on... the last thing you want is to smell like you took a bath in your cologne.

As we age, our sense of smell slowly begins to diminish. Fragrances are designed to last for about four hours or so. Some people may notice that a particular fragrance lasts all day but by then it will not smell as it's supposed to. You must reapply once or twice a day. It is important to note that oily skin holds scents much more than dry skin.

Parting Pause

Fragrances don't last forever. There are certain precautions though that will ensure the quality of the fragrance. Keep the bottle in a dry, dark place. Heat can also destroy a fragrance so keep it from extreme temperatures. Colognes and eau de toilettes (not perfume) may be kept in the refrigerator in order to maintain their freshness. Fragrances usually last for three years from the date of manufacture, not the day you buy it.

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