Jammu - The Transformation

The winter capital of Kashmir is a potpourri of culture, religion, scenic locales and an emerging business centre, says Jyoti Koul

View of old city All Pics: Neeraj Upadhyay

It is a city which has undergone a metamorphoses ever since militancy erupted in Kashmir. Once upon a time, Jammu's sole claim to fame was as the winter capital of Jammu & Kashmir, but today it is recognised as a promising business centre, a political hub and a cultural crossover region.

Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh are the three faces of breathtaking beauty of the state. While Ladakh and Kashmir are known for nature's bounties, Jammu is the soul that till date remains undiscovered due to the fact that the top end of the state has been stealing the limelight. In clear contrast to Kashmir, Jammu has a different culture, different traditions, different climate and even a different language.

It is divided into two separate cities; the old town of Jammu which is located on a hilltop overlooking the river Tawi while the new town situated across the river. It is home to several ethnic communities, which follow traditional lifestyles with distinctive cultures of their own. Among these communities, the Dogras constitute the dominant group.

Old fort in Jammu

During the six months of the winter season, the city bustles with activity as it unfolds into a political and business hub. It is also fast adopting a 'cosmopolitan' culture while emerging as a fertile ground for bulky investments and lucrative projects that are likely to transform the very nature of the town. To get an estimate of the development consider this - during the 1980s, the whole of Jammu would be covered within a radius of three kilometers but today it is almost 15 kilometres. Key areas of the Jammu province like RS (Ranbir Singh) Pura and Kishtwara are becoming business-savvy.

Besides being a prelude of the journey to the Vaishno Devi shrine, Jammu is also known as one of the largest temple cities in northern India housing Gauri Kund temple, Shudh Mahadev temple, Shiva temple, Peer Khoh Cave temple, Ranbireshwar temple and the Parmandal temple. One of the most famous is Raghunath temple which has one of the richest collection of ancient texts and manuscripts in its library.

Vaishno Devi Temple

Besides the temples, shopping is one the major mainstays of the city. Take a tour of Jammu with a special shopping agenda on the mind and as you walk through the markets in the city the shopping list becomes wider and the pocket narrower. Suddenly, you want to lap it all up - Pashmina shawls, Jamawar shawls, dry fruits, special spices, precious stones and saffron. Jammu is a shopper's paradise. Pashmina is synonymous with the state, you touch it to feel the softness of a feather, a look at it will reveal the colours of a rainbow. Pashmina shawls not only reveal the magic of craftsmanship but stand as a testimony to the rich heritage and culture of the state. Jammu is also one of the most preferred markets as far as basmati rice, rajma, aampapar (dried and candied mango peel), anardana (dried pomegranate seeds) and dry fruits like walnuts, almonds, dry apricots are concerned. The main market places like Raghunath bazaar and Hari bazaar are famous for Kashmiri handicrafts, traditional Dogra jewellery and dry fruits.

The town also has tremendous potential for tourism. It offers resorts of scenic beauty, treks, amazing picnic spots and mountain lakes besides showcasing art and culture. Sheesh Mahal, which used to be the royal residence of the Dogra kings, houses the Dogra Art Museum, which has handwritten Persian manuscripts of the Shahnama and Sikandernama. This place not only offers a beautiful view of the river Tawi but also showcases Jammu's art and culture. Another rejuvenating retreat is the royal residence called Amar Mahal Palace, located some eight kilometres from the main town. The palace stands amidst very picturesque environs. Its museum has a throne made of 120 kilos of pure gold. This palace has been converted into a heritage hotel.

Among getaways one can go to from Jammu, Katra is only 50 kilometres away and serves as the base camp for visiting the Vaishnodevi shrine in Trikuta hills. Every year, millions of pilgrims pass through Katra and a large number of hotels tourist, bungalows and Yatri Niwas are located here. Another major getaway is Patnitop, which is about 120 kilometres from Jammu. Patnitop is accessible via a motorable road and is one of the best places to experience snowfall. There are also a wide number of beautiful hill resorts situated on Jammu-Srinagar National Highway which are popular with domestic and foreign tourists. These include Kud (105.6 kms), Batote (124.8 kms) and Banchal (187 kms).

Akhnoor finds a special mention in Jammu's modern history. Some 32-km southwest of the city, located on the banks of the mighty river Chenab, Akhnoor narrates the fabled love story of two lovers Sohni and Mahiwal. Along the banks of Chenab one can also find the majestic ruins of the Indus Valley Civilization.

Jujjar Kotli a famous picnic spot some 35 kilometres from the city is home to wild flowers and lovely birds. The place has a tourist complex that includes a cafeteria, a bar and a small tourist bungalow operated by the Jammu and Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation (JKTDC).