Garden Retreat Treat

Lakshmi Subramanian spends a pleasant weekend at the Taj Garden Retreat, Madurai

A resort in hot and scorched Madurai is something of a paradox but the Taj Garden Retreat, a 100-year-old property situated atop Pasumalai Hill, has a number of things going for it. For starters, there is an abundance of natural bounty. And then, the 62-acre resort is just 20 minutes drive from Madurai airport and as you make your way there, you might forget that you are actually in Madurai. Picture a nice winding road leading to one of those old British palaces on top of a small hill. After the initial pleasantries coupled with a refreshing watermelon juice you are led into one of the 63 centrally air-conditioned rooms spread around the resort.

Freshen up, sip a cup of coffee and set off on a short Madurai jaunt. You can visit the Meenakshi-Sundareshwarar Temple, the Jain cave temples and Tirumalai Nayak Mahal in about half a day. After the tour it will be a pleasure to step back into the huge old-world room just to put your feet up in the old grandfather chair. The standard, old-world, superior and deluxe rooms are spacious.

For a nice peaceful yet quick dinner there is the buffet restaurant serving continental, Indian and Chinese cuisine. The authentic Chettinadu cuisine is splendid. Try the Kathrika Yenai Varuval (deep fried brinjal curry) even if you hate brinjal. It's worth it. In case you're in the mood for a candle light dinner with an amazing ambience go to the newly opened roof top restaurant. Surrounded by Madurai lights, temples, cool breeze and the star-studded galaxy you will feel you are being placed on a pedestal. It's time for a good night sleep after the sumptuous food.

If you do wake up early, take a pleasant walk down hill and back just to enjoy the fresh breath of air. Butterflies, dogs, caterpillars, some strange leaves and flowers are all there at the resort. You might even spot some peacocks if you're lucky as the Madurai peacocks are a bit shy. A warm Ayurvedic massage is always good after a fine walk. Just make sure you book a day in advance because the therapies are in great demand at the hotel.

After the massage gets you rejuvenated you will be all set to take on a world tour. Well, maybe not a world tour. How about a visit to Chettinadu just about three hours away? I had a jolly good time visiting the ancient palaces, Athankudi tile factories and Chettinadu saree weaving shops. The beautiful hand-woven sarees are worth buying. But don't go back without spending another quality evening at the resort.

Taj Garden Retreat Pasumalai, No.40 TPK Road, Madurai - 625 004 Tamil Nadu, India. Ph: 91-452-2371601, Fax: 91-452-2371636 E-mail: retreat.madurao@tajhotels.com, Website: www.tajhotels.com Tariff (per room per night) (Valid till 31 August 2005) Room Type Dbl. Room Rs Standard 3,300 Superior 4,000 Superior Deluxe 4,900