ISSUE OF MAY 2005  
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France - On a Platter

A lifetime might not suffice to savour France's myriad delicacies, but Sheetal Wadhwa Munshaw attempts to list a few must-trys during your next trip to the country…

France is the land of great wines and cheese, great chefs and cuisine, world renowned gourmands and gourmets and probably the greatest heritage of gastronomy. Depending on mood or occasion, you can choose from street fare to sophisticated fine dining throughout the country. If you're the type who likes to experiment, you could find very unusual eating out options from underground wine cellars to dinner cruises to dining atop the Eiffel Tower.

While you might have heard of foie gras and pâté, escargots and frog legs, cider and crepes, there's more to French cuisine than just that. It's not for no reason that celebrated French chef Alain Ducasse became the first ever six-star chef in the world!

Every region in France has its own character and cuisine, which can literally be geographically divided. There is the butter- and cream-based cuisine of the North Île-de-France, Normandy, and Tours. Sauerkraut, goose, pork sausages, and pâtés herald the German influences in the cooking of Alsace and the Alps of eastern France. Olive oil, garlic, and seafood are the aromas of the Latin South. Mustard (from Dijon), beef, and wine grapes are abundant in Burgundy and are hallmarks of the peasant-based cooking of central France, where specialties include escargot (snail), 'boeuf à la borguignonne', and 'pot-au-feu'. Force-fed geese produce the foies gras that encases the truffles in Périgord in south central France, as well as providing much of the fat that saturates the white beans and sausage in the famous cassoulets of Languedoc.

The northern region of Brittany is famed for its sweet crepes and savoury galette pancakes. According to the season these galettes are served with fresh fillings of ham, mushrooms, artichokes, shellfish etc. This region is also popular for its seafood, lobsters, oysters, shell fish, scallops, clams et al. In fact seafood platters showcasing exotic seafood are a speciality of this region. Brittany takes its individuality very seriously and is probably the only place in France that likes its cider and beer better than wine!

Distinct in its flavour is the cuisine from Provence and Riviera, its Mediterranean influence brings hot spices and seafoods. Because of the mountainous country, without the rich farmlands and herds of dairy cattle, Provencal cooking uses very little milk, and goat cheeses are predominant. Garlic, olive oil and olives are the leitmotif, and the abundant 'herbes de Provence' are the spirit.

Some specialities from the south include the Salade de Chèvre Chaude - a lettuce salad with white goat cheese served hot on pieces of toast or croutons. Among soups the most famed ones include Soupe de Poissons, a specialty of Provence, which is served steaming hot in a tureen, sometimes leaving enough appetite for the main course, but often you'll wish you hadn't ordered anything else. The Bouillabaisse is pretty much a meal on its own. But it's important to find the right restaurant to eat the dish - a good bouillabaisse is great, but a poor bouillabaisse is terrible. For seafood lovers the choices are galore … Filet de Loup de Mer - sea bass, Rougets Grillés au Pastis - red mullet with anise sauce and of course the Moules Marnieres - mussels steamed in white wine and onion; popular across France, you'll find cheaper versions in small cafés offering moules marinières with french-fries and a beer or a classier version in a classier restaurant. Always eaten with the fingers: use an empty mussel shell as pincers to pick the mussels out of the shells.

Pasta is served almost everywhere, and the Alpes-Maritimes especially has a heavy Italian influence, with its own style of course. Look for places that serve 'fresh' pasta. Try Pàtes aux Coquillages - seafood pasta, Pates au Pistou, Ravioli - varieties are available stuffed with seafood or vegetables.

Regional gastronomy includes cereals, cheeses, a great selection of pastas and many vegetable dishes. Selective ordering should provide a pretty good vegetarian menu.

Foodies can even take on French cooking classes while in France and actually learn the art of traditional French cooking.

From The Grapevine

Incomplete without its wines, the French even have scientific reason that supports their penchant for the grapevine.

It is no secret that the stereotypical French meal is heavy in saturated fats; heavy creams and butter are a staple in many dishes. Despite this fact, the French populace suffers from lower incidences of cardiac disease than many other western nations, including the U.S. Much research and medical opinion seems to credit their consumption of red wines with an overall reduction in cholesterol levels. Whatever credence one might place in this theory, it is a given that all French food is best accompanied by wine to be enjoyed to its fullest.

When it comes to wines, France is the land that brought it all its romance and glory. Home to the world's choicest selection of world-class wines, France is also the only abode for original champagne. If you want to bring home a bottle to a very special occasion get your hands on one of the hallmark brands - Moet et Chandon, Veuve Cliquot, Laurent Perrier, Bollinger etc.

In France pairing food and wine is more like a love affair than just putting things together! Make your match but just remember that wines are labeled by regions and not by the grape as it is in new world wine countries.

Don't hesitate to ask your waiter for help should you need any.

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