Moonstruck At Soma

Rashmi Uday Singh’s Good Food Guide

I dedicate today's column to the moon. Several good reasons for it. For one I am moonie about the food here. 'Here' being 'Soma' which translates into 'moon' in Hindi. However let me put on record the fact, that Soma may mean the moon, the colorful and eclectic art (in this large, theatrically lit, high-ceilinged contemporary restaurant) may reflect the moon, but the food is the real star here. And what a star!

Have I got your attention? Read on and you'll be happy you did. As long as you are of a refined palate but padded of wallet…

Walk into this high ceilinged, very contemporary, sprawling showcase of the Grand Hyatt's Indian cuisine. Whew! What a relief! No fusion, no 'Akbari' no 'Birbali' here. Just honest, traditional cooking from the regions of India. All in the elegant tandoor show-kitchen, Chef Anish Padgaonkar's scholarly research, experience in the Oberoi and ITC is evident in his masterly grasp over the art and science of cooking. How else would you explain the fact that even the lacha naan is like thin layers of puff pastry and a masterpiece. In fact you must not come away without trying this masterpiece. Ideal to dunk into the clove smoked, succulent lamb from Rajasthan,'Malgoba' (Rs 385). From Anish's wife's native Kerala comes this superlative silky coconutty Malabari fish curry (Rs 495) and it's worth your while to trip out on it with some rice. For veggies, the unusual garlicky lasooni ki seekh, bhutte ki seekh, and mushroom galauti kabab (Rs 330 each), paneer makhani (Rs 330) are delightful. In non vegetarian fare, the kababs are to kill for, tandoori jhinga (Rs 895) and murgh tulsi tikka (Rs 385) and then there's the fragrant, subtle dum gosht biryani (Rs 440).

Three cribs: lack of good desserts (the chef is in the process of creating flambed gulab jamun and a magnificent VFM thali lunch too); the approach road to this hotel; contemporary setting inappropriate for this classical homestyle fare. A definite must visit, for you if you are (like I said earlier) refined of palate but padded of wallet.

Soma Grand Hyatt Mumbai Off Western Express Highway, Santacruz (East), Mumbai 400 055. tel: 56761234 Credit cards accepted, valet parking and bar Open: 12.30 pm to 3 pm, 7 pm to 12 midnight