Antalya: Turkish Riviera

History has left its imprint around every bend of the breathtakingly beautiful Antalya. Inder Raj Ahluwalia can’t get enough of it

Spicy mushroom soup;' 'grilled chicken with mushroom sauce;' 'eggplant paste with tomatoes!' Our tables were set out on a verandah that looked down on the sea and the little harbour some 100 feet below, deserted and asleep, thanks mainly to the icy wind that lashed at you like a scalpel. Nature's cruel elements notwithstanding, it was quite a meal out there in the open, but then Hisar isn't reputed to be among the best restaurants in town for nothing.

It had been the sort of start one dreams about in holiday resorts: languorous, laid-back, rather uppity. But, then that's what one comes here for. And that's what one gets. A city with shady palm-lined boulevards, stark sea face, and a highly acclaimed marina, Antalya is Turkey's Riviera and tourist capital.

The pine-clad Toros Mountains sweep down to the sparkling clear sea resulting in an irregular coastline of rocky headlands and secluded coves. Historical sites nestle in a landscape of pine forests, olive and citrus groves and palm, avocado and banana plantations. In the picturesque old quarter of Kaleici, narrow, winding streets and old wooden houses abut the ancient city walls. Bathed in sunshine for 300 days of the year, the region is tailor-made for sunbathing, swimming, and sports activities like wind surfing, water skiing, sailing, mountain climbing and spelunking. In March and April, you can ski in the mornings and swim in warm Mediterranean waters in the afternoon. Colourful, exotic flowers in the Ataturk and Karaalioglu Parks and the shimmering water in the bay with the mountains behind, demonstrate Antalya's popularity as a resort. And of course, the world wants 'in'.

Continuously inhabited since its founding in 159 BC by Attalos II, a king of Pergamum who named the city Attaleia after himself, Antalya's history is as old and colourful as they come. The Romans, Byzantines and Seljuks successively occupied the city before it came under Ottoman rule. Grand monuments at walking distance from one another stand as stark evidence of this great historical lineage. It was a mere ten minute walk from our hotel to the city symbol - the eye-catching, elegant, fluted minaret of the Yivli Minareli Mosque in the city's centre, built by the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in the 13th Century.

The Karatay Medrese (theological college) in the Keleici district exemplifies the best of Seljuk stone carving, while the 16th Century Murat Pasa Mosque with its remarkable tile decoration, and the 18th Century Tekeli Mehmet Pasa Mosque are the city's two most important Ottoman shrines. Also eye-catching is the Hidirlik Kulesi (tower), probably constructed as a lighthouse in the second century.

With artifacts from the Paleolithic Age to Ottoman times, the Archeological Museum offers a glimpse of the area's rich history, and the Ataturk Museum displays objects used by the founder of the Turkish Republic. But `the' hotspot is the marina, and with good reason. With its souvenir shops, friendly cafes and restaurants, and yacht moorings and services, the award-winning Antalya Keleici Marina and Leisure Centre is considered amongst the loveliest in the country. Watched by the old city walls, which when lit up at night, lend an atmosphere of serenity and timelessness, thousands converge here in the summers to soak up the atmosphere, eat ice creams and drink strong Turkish coffee.

As night descended we went back to Keleici Marina, this time to a restaurant across the harbour. Perched on another verandah, this one overlooked by the fort's formidable walls, we stared down at the harbour. The coffee was strong and hot and the view as good as it gets. The region's rich and mixed history has also spawned a fair degree of cultural activity. Come autumn and the Antalya Altin Portakal (Golden Orange) Film and Art Festival brings diverse art forms to the city, with the ancient theatre in Aspendos providing an impressive setting for some of the festival's plays and concerts. The city also hosts annual jewellery fairs.

The next day was given to discovering interesting, historical sites around Antalya. Morning found us driving to Perge, a sprawling arena of ruins of a famous stronghold of old. Columns stand defiantly around pieces of what were once mighty fortification and foundation walls, while everywhere, ruins lie scattered about. There are the Roman Baths with their aqua duct systems, and the giant stadium where gladiators fought and where Christians were thrown to the lions. Two solitary women sat at vantage points amidst the ruins, selling 'evil eye' beads, pleading they were good buys and real value for money. They were, and we all did our little shopping for the day.

From Perge, a 45-minute drive brought us to Aspendos, a notable site in a country literally flowing over with historical sites. Where once gladiators fought to the death, today the Pavarotis and Elton John's of the world perform to 15,000 frenzied fans. The front resembles an office-type building, complete with the Turkish flag. One enters, and is smack in a superbly preserved amphi-theatre (even the crest is perfectly intact). A lunch stopover at a restaurant where the view surpassed the cuisine, and we headed for Gloria Hotel & Resort, one of the country's best golf and leisure hideouts, a sprawling resort by the sea, strong on nature and relaxation.

Lapped by the sea at one end, hemmed in by park land on the other, this is where the privileged come to swing their golf clubs, stretch their legs, and unburden themselves with all manner of rejuvenation programmes. 'Listen to the sea and become more beautiful' said a poster in their spa. That explained it all, really…