Dressed To Chill

Meher Castelino suggests some trendy attires for business executives to be hep this winter...

Zegna

Business dressing in India goes through some interesting seasonal changes and if there is a nip in the air then the three piece suit is an apt choice for men and at times even women. Fabric and ready to wear brands are vying with each other to dress the country’s decision makers in the most stylish attire.

From the Raymond stable of business wear comes a wide range to select from. The classic single breast suit with double vents and notched collar is still the best bet and when made from The Chairman’s Collection of super 160s Merino wool fabrics it is ideal for winter wear. Fashion trends also indicate that the three button single breast suit is still a hot favourite and Raymond’s Applause wool rich blend of super 100s wool and super fine polyester makes it an ideal choice for the Mumbai winter.

Ready to wear suits are a boon for the 21st century globe jetting high powered executive. Van Heusen, the classic shirt brand declares that their perfect suit goes through 110 steps before it goes on the racks. The Louis Philippe label from Madura Garments, which was voted the Most Admired Apparel Company at the Lycra Images Fashion Awards 2005 may be well known for its sophisticated business shirts, but also has ready to wear suits and the label has gone a step further to add the Made to Measure suits to its list. The benefit is a choice of fits from a set of 105 jackets and 20 trouser styles created from pure wool fabrics in 130s, 150s and 160s in a price range of Rs 20,995 to Rs 50,995 for a suit. The garment is produced in Bangalore and delivered in three weeks which means no tiresome visits to the tailor for trials.

The blazer no doubt is the ideal choice for a busy executive because of its versatility. A classic navy blue blazer or one in deep chocolate brown teamed with grey or beige trousers can take the wearer through meetings and then finally into an informal evening at the club. A blazer either single or double breast with peaked or notched collars in fine Merino wool is a ‘must have’ for year round elegance. Brands like Daks, Zegna, Hugo Boss and Canali have a wide selection of blazers to choose from along with matching trousers. The Ermenegildo Zegna label offers the high powered executive some fabulous winter choices. Its Z-Zegna 100 per cent wool striped two vent pleat less trouser suit priced at Rs 52,600 will match the style of any international corporate head. Zegna blazers come in navy or black, have no vents but with notched lapels and cost Rs 49,999. For cold Indian or international winters their long woollen coat (Rs 73,150), suede jacket (Rs 80,700) and wool cardigans (Rs 12,800) are favourites with top decision makers.

Daks Blazer

On the shirt front this winter there is a cross section of choices from the top labels from around the world and India. Forbes Gokak Ltd launched the world famous Saville Row shirts and ties at the Images Fashion Forum 2005 in January. “The emphasis is on sophisticated luxurious fabrics but at an affordable price. Shirts will cost Rs 575 onwards. Trousers will be Rs 950 plus and silk ties will start at Rs 650,” emphasised Reetika Mehra Dalal, executive in-charge up-market brands division, Forbes Gokak Ltd. The Daks suit collection for winter revolves around deep dark colours with basic silhouettes that are styled with two or three button closures for jackets.

For winter wear the ideal shirt is still the all white ever popular version known as the ‘Great White Hope’. But darker colours are making an appearance on the fashion charts and proving very popular. The favourite colors are still light blue, cream, grey, pink but the new entrants like navy, maroon, and brown with pin stripes or even black are accepted by the stylish executives for colder weather. Brands like Parx have brought in self embellished dobby jacquard and satin weave fabrics for shirts for their Celebration Collection starting at Rs 1199. Allen Solly launched the Luminaire Line for its Autumn/Winter 2004-05 seasons. It’s a shirt line inspired by the age old Silk Route featuring shirts in fabrics with a distinct sheen in satin dobby weaves.

The suiting fabrics lineup is as impressive as the garments they are made into. The OCM winter collection from Birla VXL Ltd has an exquisite light weight fabric that can double up for winter as well as summer wear created in shades of black, navy, and brown with pin stripes. It is undoubtedly sophisticated elegant boardroom wear. BSL Suitings from the LNJ Bhilwara Group has worsted suiting in Cashmere, Mohair, Angora and Camel Hair blends besides pure wool fabrics. Its ready to wear label La Italia which displayed its latest collection at the Lycra Images Fashion show 2005 has off the rack suits in polywool with safer inner lining.

The Reid and Taylor brand from S Kumar’s collection offers not only world class fabrics like the 120s Merino Fleece with Ultra fine Cashmere, 100% 120s Super Merino Pure New Wool, Super 120s Woolrich Blend, Super 120s Merino Wool with Superfine Polyester blends but the ideal designs for winter wear include chalk stripes, pin stripes, check, windowpane checks, bird’s eye, hounds tooth, herringbone and two tones but also ready made suits, trousers and shirts at their exclusive outlets.

Hugo Boss

Men’s Foot has brands like Florsheim, Red Tape and Marco Ricci along with Hugo Boss, Canali and Zegna which have executive styles, which are either classic lace-ups or moccasins in basic black. The style favours square to medium round toes. Ties are a must and with a woollen suit it has to be a pure silk tie or a wool and silk blend in a sober paisley or pin dot design. Most men’s ready-to-wear brands like Raymond, Louis Philippe, Van Heusen, Allen Solly, Zodiac Canali, Hugo Boss, Zegna, Chopard, Mont Blanc have a good collection that will match the winter suits.

Women’s executive wear is very much in demand with the fairer sex occupying some of the top positions in the country. On the feminine side of corporate fashion for the western wear dresser, there are several labels and high fashion designers who present seasonal collections. The suit is still the most favoured choice. Stylewise the jacket is either with or without lapels in checks, stripes or sober boardroom colours like black, navy, brown, maroon or beige. The fabrics are wool or blends. The jacket, from a single button closure could move to two, three or even four buttons. Trousers are slim or with pleats depending on individual demands and with or without side cross pockets. The shirts are either in white or pastel colours like pink, blue, yellow, green, or in stripes, checks or abstract prints. The AND label by Anita Dongre caters to the working woman and her collection of jackets, shirts and trousers revolve around basic styling. Jackets are with or without lapels, striped basic shirts and simple trousers. All the garments can be mixed and matched to create multiple options.

Canali Store

High fashion designers like Shahab Durazi, Jay Ramrakhiani and Narender Kumar are known for their corporate wear for women. Sharply cut jackets are teamed with narrow trousers by Shahab Durazi who introduced the Indian woman to the woollen jacket way back in 1987 and is known as the Master of Jackets. Jay Ramrakhiani known for his impeccably cut suits and who has designed uniforms for many corporate executives; likes to team his jackets with a skirt or trousers.

Narender Kumar goes for a little excitement in his women’s jackets adding some intricate detailing. On the ready to wear side Allen Solly’s women’s wear which won the Award for the Most Admired Women’s Wear Brand at the 5th Lycra Images Fashion Awards in January has a line up of jackets, trousers and shirts. The jackets are practical for winter and summer wear with matching trousers while the shirts or blouses are in cotton, silk or dobby. The Daks label also has a collection of women’s jackets, trousers and skirts that are ideal for lady executives as the fabrics are more suited to winter wear.

Women’s executive shirts are either with the two piece regular shirt collar or mandarin collar and sport the normal or French cuffs. A scarf is a very popular accessory for women’s executive wear. Tucked in like a muffler or worn wrapped around the neck with both ends hanging, it gives a smart elegant touch to a sober outfit. Of course, the colours have to be neutral or with a discreet print and the fabric either cashmere wool or pure silk.

Dressing up for both the male and female executives in the New Millennium is an easy task with enough Indian and foreign labels catering to the various seasons with the latest styles to enable the Indian decision makers to match the sartorial international standards around the world.