ISSUE OF DECEMBER 2004  
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Good Food, Punjabi Mood!

Eating out at least once a week has become a habit with me even when I am in town. There are two reasons for this: my wife Alyona gets a little time away from the kitchen and the second reason is that we both like to try out different eateries. One evening recently, when I found myself free to spend time with Alyona and the kids, we landed up at Pratap's The Dhaba. Again there were two reasons for this choice: one I was keen to eat typical rustic Punjabi food and secondly the the eatery belonged to my long standing friend Sanjay Pratap who was very keen on me visiting his Dhaba and giving him my opinion on the food and the service. What better use could I put my free time than to eat some ghar jaise khana in the rustic ambience of The Dhaba!

You cannot miss the location. The facade is invitingly sure-shot rustic Punjabi and once inside you'll feel as if Punjab has really come to town! 'Prataps The Dhaba', lies off Oshiwara Road at the MHADA Shopping Complex. Once you have taken in the sights of charpois and lanterns in a tree covered 'aangan' (a favourite spot for diners) the inside decor with the rustic Punjabi frills also puts you at ease in case you are there for lunch. With a vast 5,000 square feet area, the 150 covers are placed with easy maneuverability.

The place with live Bhangra adding to the atmosphere was packed and it is difficult to find a table especially on a weekend. The Dhaba, with its simple yet wholesome Punjabi food attracts the crowds. And logistics say that Mumbaikars will enjoy Punjabi food provided the taste is true and authentic. All this is available in this homely eatery. Yes, the names are somewhat frilly, and that too is necessary to be in the market, but take one bite or a spoonful and one knows that Dal Makhan Pa Ke is dal makhni, which is black sabut urad cooked with lots of butter. I make it a point to try out this fundamental Punjabi great at any Punjabi joint. Because if the dal is good, then I measure the rest of the food with this parameter.

We started off with a platter of Achari Tikkay Paneer De (Rs.90), which makes excellent use of pickle masala on really soft textured paneer. I don't mind trying this out at home too! Another in house recommendation is the Khatti Meethi Gobhi Aloo (Rs.90), which is ok if you are a cauliflower fan. I settled for Macchi Fry Amritsari (Rs.126), as fish for starters is always a good idea. It is good but can be better. I was also recommended another hot selling starter that is Hariyali Kukkad (Rs.90) but that will have to wait for the next visit.

Main course order had a black dal, of course, with Kukkad Kali Mirch Wala (Rs.108), chicken with predominantly black pepper, which tastes good in the initial few morsels but then becomes monotonous. Tasted Kukkad Dhaniya Adraki (Rs.117) and can say it does refresh the palate. They have the same flavours of coriander and ginger in a paneer preparation too. I was cajoled into tasting Egg Tadka with Dal (Rs.77) that is The Dhaba's speciality and it is wonderful with Garlic Naan (Rs.18) or even bites of pudina or dhaniya parantha (Rs.18). Finished off the meal with a pulao of chana and green onions (Rs.72), which I found refreshingly different.

What is also different is that there are no desserts or sweets in the menu but if one is offered hot jalebis with rabri, one can take it up provided space in the stomach permits. Good food, moderate prices (meal for two under 500 if you do not drink!) and great service with a smile. That's how an ideal neighbourhood good food joint should be like!

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