ISSUE OF DECEMBER 2004  
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Rashmi Uday Singh’s
Good Food Guide

A Jap Love Affair

I am convinced that the world is divided into two kinds of people, those who love Japanese food and those who hate it. If you are part of the former then you will be overjoyed to read what follows. There are no two ways about it, the history of Oriental restaurants in Mumbai will divide itself neatly into two periods, "Before Wasabi" and "After Wasabi". Mumbai's first and truly international Contemporary Japanese "Wasabi by Morimoto" opened a couple of months ago and is swamped by gourmets (Adi Dubash, Harsh Goenka who prefers this restaurant to the original in the U.S.), sushi addicts (Anju Taraporewala, Leah Dubash) for repeat meals. I dine here six times and lunch once and my palate is singing (though my wallet is stinging). But then, world over, Japanese restaurants are expensive.

WHY YOU SHOULD MAKE IT A POINT TO VISIT WASABI

Masterpieces! Poems! Lyrics! My favourites... the delicate and subtle Chilean sea bass, Oyster foie gras, full-bodiedly flavoured Lobster espice and rock shrimp tempura. Best bet? ask knowledgeable Manager Abnash Kumar to guide you. They even have drama on your table, live cooking at the Teppanyaki table, or sukiyaki and Ishiyaki at your own table.

Sushi lovers rejoice! Superlative raw sliced fish "sashimi". Exquisite Maki sushi (vinegared rice with a seafood or veggie filling, wrapped with seaweed) and "Nigiri" sushi (vinegared rice topped with thinly sliced seafood). There are also twenty eight varieties of fish. Eat with the horse radish wasabi and soya sauce and pickled ginger (gari) and be in bliss. Do try the Value For Money (VFM) lunch sets (Rs 950, soup, salad, main course). Also outstanding is fixed Teppan meal (Rs 1,150 to 1,950 for soup, salad, two maincourses, veggies, rice dessert). The average meal per head will put you back by Rs 2,000. Finally, ever tried desserts that bite back? Wasabe crème brulee, white pepper ice-cream...mmm! For veggies there is an outstanding dedicated veggie menu in this small but elegant restaurant with a private tatami room too.

WHY YOU MIGHT NOT BE HAPPY AT WASABI

Heaven help the weak-kneed as they climb up the wooden spiral staircase entry. Pick seating carefully, two very high tables with very high chairs. Tatami room, (though exquisitely private) is uncomfy and serves only one kind of Sake (Rs 475 for 60ml). Service, though well-informed is slow.

FINALLY...

This is it. Jap food buffs, this is our mecca. I take my hat off to Chef Hemant Oberoi and Chef Morimoto. Beginners should definitely begin their Jap food love affair here. Veggie gourmets never had it so good. We can only hope that the two Japanese chefs (left behind by Morimoto) will deliver the same excellence. We are rejoicing!

FOODLINE
Thanks a million for all your emails and letters and calls. Your feedback is invaluable. Great to hear from you. Will definitely review a Mumbai restaurant in the next issue. Do keep calling 22161313 and emailing foodline@rashmiudaysingh.com and do keep smiling.
WASABI BY MORIMOTO, TAJ MAHAL HOTEL, APOLLO BUNDER. PH 56653366. Open lunch and dinner

 

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