Berlin German Zeitgeist

The vigour of Berlin is contagious, discovers Inder Raj Ahluwalia as he shuttles between antiquity and post-modernism

(left to right) Ouadziga and dome of the Reichstag, Gendarmenmarks

Rarely do cities come up to my expectations, but, here, there was a distinct buzz and I felt it, despite my less than friendly cab driver who seemed to know as much about local directions as I did. For those who are intimate with it, Berlin is the city that never sleeps; a European urban centre for centuries, throbbing with commercial and entertainment activity, pulsating in its nightlife, graceful in bearing its wounds and wonders.

Circa 2004, there is very little evidence of the overpowering emotions which accompanied the opening of the Brandenburg Gate in 1989, signalling Germany's reunification. Instead, from the ashes of the Berlin Wall, has arisen a city brimming with youth, bubbling over with ideas, creativity and a zest for life. Even demographically, it's a young city, with almost half its inhabitants below 35. And it takes just a short visit to feel the special rhythm that permeates its atmosphere. (Remember the 'buzz' I mentioned.)

Over the next two days, in my own haphazard sort of way, I 'did' the city. Whether in the old German Ballhaus, or on the steps of the pleasure ground, or inside the old Hamburger Bahnof, or out canoe-sailing on the Tegel lake, I found or rather felt, a certain heartbeat beneath the exterior.

My initial impression that Berlin is a city of water and stone and nothing more changed rapidly as I came face to face with the grandeur of its history and culture.

German National Opera

The splendour of Berlin's past made itself apparent in the grand historical buildings like the Charlottenburg Palace with its fabulous art treasures and memories of Prussian Kings; the stately gleaming white Humboldt Palace in Tegel with its splendid two centuries-old avenue of 'Linden' leading to the Humboldt family's private burial ground, and the Klein-Glienicke Palace. For cultural flavour, there was Gendarme Market, the site of Schinkel's grandiose theatre, now a concert hall with a French and German Church complimenting each other. Fortunate enough to have good weather, I perched myself here with a cup of steaming coffee while seeing the city's life ebb and flow.

Emerging from the shadows of history are the famous buildings of modern Berlin. Like the sleek Radio Tower (which I found too glitzy) and the imposing International Congress Centre! Or the office blocks that gleam with fresh paint and polished glass! And offering spectacular city views from its dome, through over 30,000 square feet of glass, the renovated Reichstag remains a major symbol of revivification.

Potsdam Square

If Berlin was always a 'happening 'city, it has now gone into an overdrive. Given the packed year-round calendar of events, your one basic problem might be deciding exactly when to visit. The International Film Festival, the International Tourism Exchange, the International Audio and Video Fair, the 'Partners for Progress' trade fair, and The International Greek Week, are just some events that showcase the world locally. Cultural highlights include the famous 'Jazz Festival', the 'Free Berlin Art Exhibition', the 'Theatre Meeting', the 'Berlin Midsummer Night's Dream', the 'Winter Tale', and the 'Bach Week', to name a few.

I found it surprisingly quick and easy to shore up on my cultural knowledge. In just half a day, I brushed up on local history at the Berlin Museum, admired Nefertiti's famous bust at the Egyptian Museum, and saw dozens of 19th century paintings and sculptures at the National Gallery.

Thanks to some 30 competing theatres, and several courageous, experimental 'free theatre' ensembles and collections that seem to exist and perform with no fixed place of abode, there’s a fair bit of cultural crowding. Combining to ensure that art's in season all year round are The Oper (the city's auditoria), the Philharmonic, the Chamber Music Hall, and the stylish Theatre das Westins, which I managed to see even though there wasn't a performance on. And there's also The Schaubuhne at Lehniner Platz, easily among Europe's finest and most 'architecturally artistic' theatres, combining the classical and modern.

Muggel Lake

If you're into nature, don't let Berlin's big city status put you off. Like art and culture, nature also seems to be in season throughout the year, with a third of the city comprised of lakes, rivers, forests, fields and meadows. Beckoning ramblers are 225 kilometers of riverbank and gleaming, sandy beaches for swimming and fishing plus some 60 parks including the grounds of the Federal Horticultural Show and what turned out to become my favourite spot - the Botanical Gardens. One can also drive out to Lake Wannsee or cast off on a pleasure-boat cruise on the Spree or the Havel, but time being short, I skipped these pleasures.

International Conference Centre

My lasting impressions of the city, however, didn't have much to do with its wealth of historical and cultural buildings. Beneath the formal veneer lies something much less stuffy. One doesn't have to dress or behave formally in this city of history and high fashion. Everything is taken with a nod and a wink, never mind the serious expressions.

Sunrise sees the Tegel Lake bathed in gold. Sunset sees the neon’s flash their commercial messages at the Europe-Center. And during all this time, one of the world's great metros tries to live up to its formidable reputation. And manages it rather well, I must say.

(Pics courtesy : German Consulate, Mumbai)