through the promised land

Meher Castelino lives it up at the Dead Sea and then heads off to Jerusalem for some spiritual solace...

Packing on the mud at Dead Sea

I was at an all time low, quite literally. At 400 metres below sea level, the Dead Sea shoreline is the lowest point on earth not covered by water. Dead Sea, the name is a real misnomer as the place is really hot (literally too, since the temperature hovers around 38 degrees Celsius almost around the year) and happening.

A two-hour drive from Tel Aviv, the Dead Sea region stretching 70 kms from North to South has amazing sun, sea and sand (mud) with healing qualities for skin diseases like psoriasis, joint ailments as well as heart and respiratory problems. Ein Bokek, the stretch of beach with 15 luxury hotels is where the sick as well as the vacationers flock from around the world.

The numerous clinics in this area give world class treatment, which includes mud baths, sun bathing and swimming in the Dead Sea for prescribed periods. Because of the Dead Sea's high salt and mineral content it is impossible to drown. It is also impossible to swim, since the water is very heavy so people love to float in it for hours. The sun's rays are filtered because of the low level, so it helps the skin instead of harming it. The mud baths are ideal for the skin and joints helping the body to feel rejuvenated.

Eingedi

I tried everything - the salt massage, the mud bath, the swim in the Dead Sea and a spot of sun bathing and my skin felt like satin. But I also discovered many unknown scratches on my body as the salt water irritated them. I couldn't have asked for a more rejuvenating start on my tour of the Holy Land. In fact Israel is a perfect destination where one can satisfy those adventurous urges, religious revivals and soak in some refreshingly healthy atmosphere.

The evenings were spent having fun on the beach. During the full moon, beach parties followed by some heavy duty eating at the various hotel banquets was the normal way to end the day. Israeli meals are lavish with quantities being gigantic and buffet tables groaning with delicious dishes.

Church of Annunciation

But there is lots of other action in the Dead Sea Region for fun. The Ein Gedi Oasis 31 kms away from Ein Bokek has David's Spring, a thin waterfall that gathers into a pool up in the mountains. While the rest of the region is bare hot desert, Ein Gedi with one of the ancient synagogue ruins; and an early kibbutz is a haven in the scorching heat. A mineral spring of water here is a favourite and drinking it is considered healthy.

The Dead Sea is also seeped in history. Masada the magnificent fortress atop the mountain has its beautiful sound and light show. History relates that ancient Jewish Zealots hid there to escape the wrath of the Romans and then committed mass suicide when they were defeated in the 3rd century. The Dead Sea Scrolls are also not far from Ein Bokek. Here the first detailed scrolls were discovered near Qumran and now preserved for all to see. The adventurous ones can mountain or rock climb, hike, cycle, go on nature treks, and generally discover the countryside and watch nature in all its untouched beauty.

A trip to Israel is never complete without a visit to Jerusalem, the city that has seen many wars, moved through turbulent times and has the beauty of many religions growing in its lap.

Birth place of Jesus

As we drove for an hour from the Dead Sea and reached the top of Mt Scopus and then onto the Mt of Olives; Jerusalem spread below us on all sides. The glittering domes, the walls of the Old City and the winding roads below, where history had been created for centuries, looked breathtaking.

Old Jerusalem or the Old City as it is popularly called is quartered into the Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenian sections. While the Armenian, Christian and Jewish quarters have their own characteristic touches, though now the narrow lanes are dotted with souvenir and fast food shops. It is the Muslim quarter where the spiritual seekers head to trace the passions of Christ through the 14 stations where Jesus walked and fell.

The Via Dolorosa - the Way of Sorrows is the path through which Jesus carried the cross along with the two robbers.

Through the narrow cobbled lanes we walked in the path of Jesus which was now a haggling tourist filled route with shopkeepers eager to sell their cheap wares at any cost.

At the tenth station we reached a square that led into the Church of the Holy Sepulcher where the last four stations are. The Rock of Golgotha where Jesus was nailed to the cross, the actual place where he was crucified, the stone slab where he was brought down from the cross and finally the Tomb where his body was laid to rest. These four stations were undoubtedly the most emotional part of our trip. The seekers of God crowd here praying for peace, happiness and health.

Stepping out into the open we headed for the next most important part of the Old City, the world famous Western Wall or the Wailing Wall as it is popularly called which is in the Jewish section. Divided into two sections for each sex the cracks of the giant wall are stuffed with prayer notes to the Almighty as the faithful come here from all over the world hoping for their prayers to be answered.

Just outside the Old City we visited the Upper Room, the place where Jesus had his Last Supper with his disciples. Now a bare silent room with light streaming through its windows, two thousand years ago it was the site where deceit was hatched to kill a decent man.

Our trip to Israel would have to include a visit to the Church of Nativity in Bethlehem, which is the birthplace of Jesus. Tucked underground this holy place now glittering with gold and satin, marks the birthplace of Jesus.

Nazareth a two-hour drive from Jerusalem is where Mary was informed by Angel Gabriel about her Immaculate Conception. The Basilica of Annunciation is a beautiful building divided into two parts. The church is situated below and on the second floor are displayed paintings of Mary and Jesus from different parts of the world wearing traditional clothes.

Along our way to Nazareth we had a quick glimpse of the Sea of Galilee another lowest point on earth at 200 Mts. below sea level on which Jesus is believed to have walked.

John the Baptist at Yardenit first baptized Jesus, which is where the Jordan River flows into the Sea of Galilee. This is an important site today for mass baptizing. Israel is a land of many miracle sites like Cana near Nazareth where Jesus turned six jars of water into wine at a poor wedding.

Small as the country is, its heritage is rich and unending and I would have to go back a few more times to experience the pleasures, sites and history of Israel before I can say I have seen it all.