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Jakes Grill - Vintage American Classic
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Jake's Grill, 611 S.W. 10th Avenue,
Portland, Oregon 97205
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Wherever I go, I search for uniqueness and most often am pleasantly
surprised. Our recent visit to USA was no different. Once work got over we hunted
for some exceptional place to enjoy a meal and while in Portland, Oregon we
landed up at Jake's Grill, set in the style of the early 1900s, and located
in the grandiose The Governor hotel on 10th Avenue.
Jake's Grill features Classic American Grill' cuisine infused with north-western
verve. One line in explanation would suffice here: entrees such as pot roast,
sirloin steak, prime rib, pork chops, meat loaf and gravy and other classics
dominate the menu, all complemented with a traditional bar. Here you will find
the best steak in that part of northwest America - tender Filet Mignon, USDA
Prime Top Sirloin, New York Steak and of course, the best fresh seafood.
As we settled down at our table, we could not but exclaim that the spot packs
plenty of appeal, much of which rests on its distinctively classy, turn-of-the-20th-century
look that seems to be taken off from the interiors of the plush Titanic!
I could say the ambience at Jake's Grill is stately, especially the dining area
with its unique inlaid, mosaic floor. A friendly waiter offered this bit of
history when I wondered aloud about the beauty of the mosaic floor. I was informed
that when the Governor Hotel was designed in 1909, the architect had embellished
it with terracotta and even fixed terracotta figures of men and women on the
roof. He installed a mosaic floor and onyx wainscoting in the lobby. In the
intervening years, part of the mosaic floor was buried under seven layers of
carpet, but then in 1992, when renovations were going on, it was restored and
two years later when Jake's Grill was established, this part of the 'restored-
to-its-original-brilliance' floor became the floor of Jake's Grill.
We were then handed over the daily menu. And immediately chose to order an appetiser:
Angel Thin Onion Rings (thinly sliced onion rings with barbeque sauce) (US$
5.90), and Jake's Seafood Sampler with shrimp, oysters, crab and crawfish (US$
8.70). Crayfish, also called crawfish or crawdad, are closely related to the
lobster. Of the 500 species of crawfish more than half occur in North America!
We followed it up with Mixed Green Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette (US$ 4.90)
to munch on while we waited for the main course: Double Cut Lamb Chops with
Mint Demi-Glace (US$ 29.85). It is interesting to share how demi-glace is made:
heat olive oil with trimmings from lamb. Season with salt and pepper. Brown
the fat, and add minced garlic, onion, carrots, celery leaves, port, red wine,
and chicken broth. Transfer the mixture to a slow cooker, and simmer on low
for eight hours or overnight to reduce it by one tenth! Strain the mixture and
mix in spearmint, rosemary and mint jelly, and let it simmer, adding more port,
wine, or broth as needed, until the mixture leaves a syrup-like coating on the
back of a spoon. Strain once more, and keep warm while lamb roasts. And we never
stopped to think about just a sauce! We were sure about what to order from the
seafood section: Northwest Mixed Seafood Grill (US$ 21.85) with salmon, halibut
and crab cake. And Alyona preferred to try out the Jake's Grill Pot Roast with
Roasted Vegetables and Gravy (US$ 10.75) also. Both delivered more than we expected.
And as we were gently ushered out after finishing the meal, the thought stayed
with me: I have really tasted something that is timeless, enduring and American
Classic.
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