Fine China

Rashmi Uday Singh’s

Good Food Guide

FOODLINE

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Man Ho JW Marriott, Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong, tel: 852 2810 8366

I resist temptation. It comes in so many forms. It hits me the moment I walk into the stunningly beautiful glass lobby. In fact, this lobby lounge is not a lobby lounge at all. It beckons me with its different personalities. There is the Q88 wine bar with it's tapas menu and huge choice of wines. Its Havana-style cigar bar snuggles next to it with a walk-in humidor, right in there is a book lounge, a noodle bar, a spinning salad bar and a dessert bar too. All these are brand new at the JW Marriott and should you happen to be in Hong Kong then this is where you head to. Since I was here only for one night, I decided to zero in on my favorite Cantonese food. Plenty of my friends had told me about the hairy crabs and the bird's nest at this centrally located hotel's 'Man Ho' Chinese restaurant.

The high-ceilinged contemporary Chinese restaurant with its brilliant detailing and warm colours seduced me immediately. And though I never got to meet Chef Simon Chui, his dishes did the talking. I ordered some Chinese wine (must admit it was too strong for me) and what an amazing experience followed. If you are into the real uthentic stuff then they have it for you. However, if you want to play safe and stick to your usuals of 'crispy chicken' et al, they serve that too.

Chef Simon Chui's crab repertoire is mind-blowing and palate pleasing. Check out the baked fresh crab claw with superior soup, the stewed fresh crab with turnip, braised Tianjin cabbage with crab roe. This was my first taste of Tianjin cabbage. Chef Chui also turns out masterpieces with bird's nest. Should you happen to be travelling there now, ask for the autumn delicacy, the hairy crab. Enjoy their succulent meat and creamy roe. These crabs are brought in especially from Yangcheng lake near Shanghai. Do try the crispy chicken and better still ask the helpful maitre'd to guide you through the menu, which changes with the seasons. Even though this award winning restaurant is a specialty Cantonese one, it also invites guest chefs from Szechuan, but I prefer to stick to the subtle and natural flavours of Canton. And these dazzle and seduce here!