Jungle Baraat

Achal Dhruva finds a traffic jam in the middle of a jungle at Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, as he goes in search of the elusive beast

Life they say is sometimes stranger than fiction and this was driven home in the most unexpected fashion. The scene that unfolded before my eyes on a hot summer afternoon was as bizarre as the proceedings of Alice in Wonderland - a small traffic jam of sorts on a narrow mud track deep in the jungle.

Entry gate of Tadoba

Two Tata Sumos were side by side hogging the road crawling at a snail's pace with an impatient line up of a Maruti 800, an Opel Astra, a Maruti Esteem, a Toyota Qualis, yet another Sumo and a Santro lost somewhere between the last two. People were leaning out of the windows, gesticulating and arguing excitedly, each fighting for right of way to move ahead of the other vehicle. Their ire was especially directed at the two Sumos right in front, acting like obstinate cows lying bang in the middle of a busy city road. This looked like a familiar peak hour scenario of our metros except that there was no incessant blaring of horns and that none of the infuriated drivers had stepped out of their cars to grab the other by the collar. In fact none of them would even dream of doing a thing like that because the consequences would not have been being hauled up by a traffic policeman. Rather, venturing out of the vehicle would have meant being mauled by a grown tiger. A tigress, about six years old was walking in the middle of the dirt road and was the sole reason for the drama and commotion.

Though we were at the end of this freaky traffic jam, we had vantage view of the tigress and the 'tamasha' in her wake because ours was an open jeep. Occupants of the vehicles in between were almost falling out of the windows to have a glimpse of the majestic beast and it was hilarious to watch the frustrated Santro driver observing basic traffic rules like flashing his right indicator in the middle of a jungle while attempting a typical auto rickshaw manoeuvre to overtake the Sumo and Qualis.

The tigress meanwhile was completely unperturbed and walked languorously towards what locals call Kolar Tank 97. After the initial 10 minutes of excitement of sighting the tigress, the ensuing pandemonium among the gathered vehicles subsided with each vehicle getting a chance to lead the retinue following the tigress. It was almost like a 'baraat' with the unruffled and not so coy bride leading the way. Such languid unconcern in any other animal would have been an anti-climax, but there is a thrill about the tiger that causes excitement irrespective of circumstances.

We followed her for nearly half an hour, long after others had taken 'one for the album' and a U turn. We were just 20 feet away and I understood what they meant by feline grace. Her movements seemed like poetry in motion and she was a real beauty, her stripes gleaming in the sunlight. "That's a tigress in heat. She is so focused on mating that nothing else registers," explained Amrut Dhanwatay, owner of Tiger Trails Jungle Lodge and our host during our short three-day trip to Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve close to Nagpur. "In tiger world, the onus is on the female of the species to mate, and if the mating period passes before she can interest a male, she loses the season," he added to the dreamy delight of the guys in the group. However, the big smile on my face, which was stuck for a long time was more for the thrill and joy of finally sighting a full-grown tiger. After visiting Panna, Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Ranthambore tiger reserves without success, I had managed to hit pay dirt in little known Tadoba. "I will show you the tiger," Amrut had promised us on the drive to his jungle lodge located just outside the reserve.

"Summer is the best time to spot tigers as they not only congregate at watering holes like other animals to beat the heat but also to hunt. With a little bit of patience and luck you are sure to spot one," Amrut had expounded. On the four-hour drive to the lodge, a white one-storeyed bungalow, the only concrete structure with hills and jungles stretching out in the front, Amrut filled us with nuggets of information about Tadoba.

According to Amrut, while the tiger population in Tadoba is only 41, during the summers, tigers from the nearby area also migrate there. Besides tigers, the prominent wildlife found at Tadoba includes leopards, sloth bear, gaur (Indian bison), wild dog (dhole), Indian mugger (marsh crocodile), spotted deer (chital), sambar, barking deer, nilgai (blue bull) and the common langur amongst others. The dry deciduous forest also boasts a number of species of birds and reptiles. The first national park of Maharashtra Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve also houses two big lakes, called Irai and Tadoba.

The most striking feature of the lodge is the pin-drop silence that hangs around it, broken only by animal calls and the chirping of birds. Time and space stand still here and one gets the feel of having landed in the midst of nowhere. The sparse surroundings seemed to echo in the interiors at first glance. The discreet and understated furnish, oil painted wall hangings and the predominant use of cane furniture and its stylish arrangement imparted a kind of charm reminiscent of the colonial era. With a large hall, a dining section, two rooms with attached bath, kitchen and an upper storey, Tiger Trails is more like a private villa given on rent than a jungle lodge. And that perhaps is the charm of the place. No noisy kids or insensitive neighbours intruding your peace, no blaring transistors (unless you want it) disturbing your communion with the jungle, the entire lodge belongs to you. "Be it one, two or eight member groups, we rent the lodge out only to one party," asserted our host to my unabashed delight.

Eager to get on with our hunt for 'Sher Khan' we set off after a sumptuous lunch in the blazing afternoon for our very first safari of the trip. Our three-hour long foray in tiger land was a story of heat, sweat, grime, dust and dirt without any significant sightings. Of course we did come across the gallery of usual suspects - chitals, wild boars, langurs, sambars, peacocks and barking deer around the four watering holes and some of them criss-crossing our paths more than once.

A night in the jungle is different. Darkness creeps in without warning and engulfs you within moments. The stillness is often broken by animal calls and alarms, the odd rustle in the ground and sound of dry leaves being trampled upon. It's an eerie feeling and one gets a distinct sensation of being watched. Even the jungle air smells different and in Tadoba it is thick and heavy with the sweet stench of the flowers of Mahua trees which are in full bloom in summer. These small white flowers are collected, fermented and converted into a heady brew. While local women put themselves at risk and forage for these flowers in the forest, wild animals tipple on its nectar.

"Some time ago," recollected Amrut, "a family spent a night on one of the machans in the property. The next day, when they came back to the lodge they were visibly silent and I could sense that something was amiss. When they did not raise the issue till noon, over lunch I carefully asked if something was wrong. The question somehow upset the lady. Completely losing her cool she said that the vicinity is infested with drunks. 'Last night two large black men completely intoxicated camped below the machan. They did not allow us a wink of sleep. Right through the night they screamed and shouted at each other and even came to blows. What I can't understand is how you allow such people in your property,' she ranted without a pause. It was impossible for me to suppress my laughter any longer and I burst out. The lady and the other family members were livid at my audacity. It took me a long time to convey to them that the noisy intruders had been a pair of sloth bears, high on mahua. As they had never seen a sloth bear in their lives they refused to believe me and thought I was pulling a fast one. I somehow managed to convince them to spend one more night on the machan. The issue was cleared when post mid-night, the husband of the lady nudged me and pointing out at two full grown sloth bears said, 'here they come again.'"

Day two morning safari, we had a lot of wildlife sightings including a pack of wild dogs galloping from a water hole. A comparatively rare animal to sight, the wild dog pack is one of the most efficient and ruthless of all predators. It is said that once the wild dogs target their prey, the latter is as good as dead. "Even the tiger stays clear of the wild dogs," informed Amrut's son Aditya who was accompanying us on the safari. "Let's move to the next water-hole," he stated after the wild dogs moved into the woods. Thin and slightly smaller than a full-grown mongrel, it was hard to imagine that these dogs could evoke fear in the mighty tiger. But the tiger is a loner and the numbers provide the wild dogs with the killing edge.

Tiger Trails Jungle Lodge Pic: Amrut Dhanwatay

That morning safari did not yield any results as far as tiger sightings were concerned, despite the pugmarks, the watering holes, tips and suggestions by the guards and the guides. We were slightly concerned by now but our hopes of spotting a tiger remained high for two reasons: one was the nonchalant confidence of our host and the other was the fact that Tadoba, despite its impressive tiger density, is a relatively undisturbed forest and not visited by many tourists.

But we struck it lucky in the evening with an experience of our life, participating in what I now fondly recall as the 'tiger baraat'.

With a tiger sighting under our belt, safari on day three was a more contented and laid-back affair, of seeing the forest with new eyes and interest. However, the highlight was spending the night on the machan. Built around a tree and supported by stilts, the machans at Tiger Trail Jungle Lodge are constructed entirely of bamboo at a height of about fifteen feet. We picked one, which could accommodate the five of us and the helpers at the lodge arranged mattresses, blankets, pillows and water for us to make our night vigil comfortable.

Tigeress seeking her mate

Machans are usually built near a water hole or at a spot frequented by wildlife, so that humans can take advantage of the vantage view and study the animals. Our machan was right next to a watering hole on one side and a Mahua tree on the other. We crossed our fingers hoping that a sloth bear in mood for a 'tipple' would turn up. However, it turned out be an uneventful night. The day that followed carried the warrant for our departure. We had developed a bond with Tadoba, for the first tiger sighting is much like the first love affair - something that will forever remain special. By consensus we decided on a revisit. "July," recommended Amrut, "for Tadoba is unique in the sense that unlike other National Parks, this park does not close for the rains and metamorphoses into a lush green environment."

Unfortunately the rains have come and gone I am yet to keep my date with Tadoba.