Melbourne European Hangover

A juxtaposition of modern skyscrapers and Victorian structures, Melbourne is a pulsating melting pot of cultures writes an enamoured Charmaine Fernz

As I checked out of Melbourne Airport, I was greeted with a chilly early winter morning and a pleasant breath of fresh air. On my way to the hotel, my chauffer informed me in pure Aussie accent, "Girl, this is the best time to visit the 'Land Down Under' or Aussie land, as most know it - the beginning of winter." Having settled my self in the plush Westin Hotel situated right next door to the famed Regent Theatre, I devoured my breakfast watching the city get into the hustle and bustle of daily routine. It was my first trip down under and among the long list of things not to miss in Aussie land I was forewarned of the freaky Melbourne weather. I think during my brief stay in the city I got a 'true blue' experience of the freaky weather right from light drizzles to strong winds and rarely a sunny morning.

As I began my tour of the city, my first impression of Melbourne was that of a modern city with an European feel. Structures in Victorian style amidst the modern skyline give visitors a very colonial feel. The city, set around the shores of Port Phillip Bay and the northern banks of Yarra River, about five kilometers from the bay, is laid out in a large rectangle and boasts a lively cosmopolitan pulse. Yarra River, which a few years ago was just like any other river that flows through a city, has been transformed into being synonymous with Melbourne thanks to the efforts of the Victorian (state) government.

My first stop in the city was a tour of the Queen Victoria market, a typical wholesale market place. Business begins at nine every morning with vendors setting up stalls in the well planned out structure. You can find every household item conceivable, be it souvenirs, clothes, silverware. It is so well planned that on one side you have rows of stalls with all types of meats, while on the other vegetables, even the organic type and there is also a dedicated fruit section. If you are looking for a reasonable deal, check this market out. Beware that one needs to start off early as the market shuts by 3 pm.

Moving on from the market on the city tour, it is very distinctly obvious that Melbourne is a well-planned city: a tidy, balanced grid of neatly angled streets that are easy to wriggle your way through. But beneath this sense of everything in its place restraint, lies a restless creative energy constantly pushing back at the city's seeming conservatism. The Central Business District (CBD) is made up of precincts - distinct enclaves each with its own flavour and charm. Some are just a lane or two, while others cover the banks of the Yarra River or a busy CBD street. Extending around the bay, are a number of inner suburbs, each with its own distinct character and personality. A short tram ride from the city centre, Melbourne's suburban neighbourhoods are also a must see for anyone wanting to experience what life here is really all about.

Everything For Everyone

It is said that the city of Melbourne has something for everyone. From chic fashion stores to buzzing street side cafes and trendy bars, botanical gardens to sports stadiums, elegant Victorian-era streetscapes to Manhattan-style skyscrapers, film and food festivals to galleries and opulent theatres. Our next jaunt was a helicopter tour of the city, a classic birds eye view experience. Though a short trip, the view from above is literally speaking a different high.

We had a smooth take off to partial cloudy skies and the aerial view showed Melbourne in a different light, everything so distinct - the Telstra Dome, the Government buildings, and most of all the Melbourne Observation Deck. Though not an affordable experience (15 minutes flight costs AUD 85-125 and one hour flight cost AUD 295) but if you have the money and the inclination, give it a try. It's worth it, an unique experience. Two companies to contact are Professional Helicopter Services and Melbourne Sea Planes. Once we found land beneath our feet we moved on to the Melbourne Observation Deck, which is the highest building in Victoria, boasting 55 floors. However, competition is fast catching on with another sky scrapper being built with 58 floors. Apart from the vantage panoramic view and strong winds on the outer rim of the deck, if hunger pangs call, have a go at a meal or drink from Cafe 55 and check out Melbourne Observation Deck gifts and souvenirs shop on the same floor.

Back on street level, don't miss the RialtoVision Theatre, which features Melbourne the Living City, a 20-minute film highlighting the diversity of regions, attractions and events on offer in Victoria. Having had our fill of city on the first day ending up with a sumptuous meal, we just couldn't wait to catch a glimpse of what was in store for us the next day. As morning dawned, we started our day with an early morning breakfast in one of the street side cafes, highly recommendable if you have the time. Try out the peppermint tea with hot croissants and marmalade or if you don't mind a heavy start order the meusli with an assortment of nuts and fruits.

Our next stop was the much talked about Federation Square. There is a common story around this structure. It is said that as most developed countries have a well-known square like Times Square in New York or Trafalgar Square in London, the state of Victoria wanted their own, and conceptualised Federation Square. The place is built with utmost care and attention to detail. It is said that every rock or stone had to be unique to the square.

On the steps to the Auditorim, which is built of glass and steel, the stones on the walls have been taken from the seabed that gives it a rough and grainy finish. A classic structure indeed that is so unique to Melbourne and easily accessible as it is just a hop, skip and a jump from Flinders Street station. Visitors can also take in a comprehensive collection of Australian art at the Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia, or walk next door to see the state-of-the-art Australian Centre for the Moving Image. Federation Square is also home to the Melbourne Visitor Centre - a one-stop shop for visitors to learn all there is to see and do in Melbourne and Victoria.

Adjacent to Federation Square and enroute to Melbourne's sports precinct is Birrarung Marr, the first major park to be developed in central Melbourne since the city was originally laid out over a century ago. If you want to just chill out, you can stroll in to any of the 20 captivating restaurants, cafes and bars interspersed throughout the square and enjoy the food and wine.

If you have time to spare and nothing to do, just hop on to one of the City Circle trams that are brown in colour with services every 12 minutes. One can only board these from certain stops that have a City Circle logo. There are two types of trams - one, which just takes a city tour of 45 minutes while in the other one you, can also dine while on the city tour. However, make sure to get on the dinning car before 6:30 p.m. as dinner is served early on board. This tram touches all essential city spots like the Gold Rush Building, New Quay Melbourne Docklands, Central Jail et al. If you plan to migrate to the city and do not have the moolah to get around, these trams are the best mode of transport as they are free. The tram service starts as early as 6:30 in the morning and winds up at mid-night.

On a business note, the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre is a sprawling structure that hosts most of the city's corporate events. As we were around town, during the Australian Tourism Exchange (ATE) 2004, every nook and corner publicised the event. One can certainly make the most of their trip to Victoria with the new See Melbourne & Beyond Smartvisit Card. The credit card-sized smart card gives cashless admission to over 50 leading attractions across Melbourne and the surrounding regions for one all-inclusive price, providing great value for money and convenience for visitors. After just two attraction visits per day, cardholders start to save money.

As the name suggest, the card reaches places such as Melbourne's Bays and Peninsulas, Yarra Valley etc. Participating attractions include Melbourne Museum, Melbourne Aquarium, Melbourne River Cruises and much more. Available as two-day, three-day or seven-day cards for adults or hildren, the card comes with a full-colour pocket-sized guidebook that highlights all the best things to see and do, with useful maps and local tips. Prices are as follows: Adult (16+) Child (5-15) for 2 day AUD$99, AUD$55; 3 day AUD$129, AUD$69; 7 day AUD$189, AUD$119. The See Melbourne & Beyond Smartvisit Card can be purchased at the Melbourne Visitor Centre at Federation Square, or by phoning: 1300 661 711 (within Australia only). Alternately, it can also be purchased online.

The other stops one can make are China Town, Royal Botanical Gardens, Victorian Arts Centre and The Melbourne Theatre. Typically Chinese like a China town anywhere else worldwide it is best you visit this locality accompanied by a local. Royal Botanical Gardens, which has numerous flora and fauna, some dating back centuries is also an ideal jogging path. A visit to the Victorian Arts Centre provides a glimpse into the latest art on offer. Adjacent to the Arts Centre, The Melbourne Theatre stages dozens of theatrical productions each week, ranging from mainstream musicals to experimental works. Catch a blockbuster at the beautifully-restored Her Majesty's and Princess theatres. Royal Botanical Gardens during the warmer months hosts outdoor performances of Shakespeare, and enjoy cabaret-style drama at the Comedy Theatre.

Wining & Dining

With 140 nationalities represented in Melbourne, the city is spoiled for choice. Over 3,000 restaurants present a range of cuisine than can be accompanied by sumptuous local wines, freshly made juices from regional fruits and vegetables. Try something more original than your straight flat white coffee - why not try a tall double decaf expresso with a dash of whipped soya cream, or stretch the credit cards with a bottle of Hanging Rock Macedon Cuvee NV sparkling wine? For a first timer, I discovered rows of cafes along the riverside at Southgate, in the lanes and streets of the city centre and adjoining bohemian neighbourhoods like Fitzroy, groovy St Kilda and stylish South Yarra. Linger over coffee and cake with Melbourne's 'latte' (type of coffee) set, smile as children feed the ducks in the Royal Botanical Gardens or get your fingers greasy eating fish and chips on St Kilda beach. Arm yourself with the weekend newspapers and read your way through brunch amongst the laidback crowds along Brunswick Street.

You could also visit the modern Morrocan eating house Mecca Bah for delectable middle-eastern cuisine in their relaxed restaurant and bar, or sample fresh seafood at Livebait, a Mediterranean seafood brasserie with stunning 270 degree city and harbour views. Re-Juice is the perfect place for a healthy pick-me-up, with juices, smoothies, soups and wraps, or enjoy the smooth grooves and cocktails at trendy Cargo. One can certainly not visit Aussie land and leave the place without having a jug of beer. Melbourne boasts a happening nightlife. Wander through any city lane and with a little detective work, you'll definitely uncover some of the city's best-kept secrets - its bars.

The city's lanes are now becoming famous for these anonymous bars that are calculatedly concealed, bear no signage and whose location is passed on like a secret-society handshake. Meyers Place is one such nook that hides a couple including the long-running second-floor Waiters' Club - famous for once being the only place in town to get a post-closing-time drink - and a street-level bar that doesn't have a name, let alone a sign.

Funky watering holes can also be found in Duckboard Place, Hosier Lane, Russell Place, Bennetts Lane, Bullens Lane, Sniders Lane, and Market Lane. If you venture out a little futher afield, St Kilda, Prahran and Fitzoy also offer some great nightspots. Another must visit is Cherry, where weekly cocktails like the 'Bill Murray' (don't ask what's in it) reveal that Cherry still has a lot of charisma. This bar pulls an alternative but unpretentious mob to its noisy space, where red flames lick the ceiling beams and there's always a bit of room for a shimmy.

Great Outdoors

Australians love the outdoors and an average 'mate' leads a very sporting lifestyle. It is quite common place to find corporate executives driving to work with surf boards and catching a quick ride on the waves during the lunch break. Boating and sailing is a major pastime in Melbourne which is located on the largest embayment in Australia, which means there are small tidal variations with consistent fair sailing conditions.

Yachting is one of Melbourne's most popular sports, with about 20 clubs lining the shores of Port Phillip, many of which welcome visitors who want to volunteer to crew on racing boats. Some of the larger clubs include the Royal Melbourne Yacht Squadron, St Kilda (+61 3 9534 0227); Royal Brighton Yacht Club (+61 3 9592 3089); Sandringham Yacht Club (+61 3 9598 7444) and Hobsons Bay Yacht Club, Williamstown (+61 3 9397 6393).

You can even charter yachts to sail yourself or for a joy ride or learn to sail at one of the learn-to-sail organisations. Melbourne's Dockland Sailing School at Victoria Harbour offers corporate team building activities that include innovative corporate team sailing and team cooking, classroom programmes, leadership development, corporate yacht charter and fun group activities and adventure sailing tours.

Melbourne is unique having five winegrowing regions within an hour and a half of the city and these offer wine lovers a much more interesting and adventureous experience than sipping wine in a restaurant. A definite plus for time-starved winelovers with a taste for peppery shiraz and elegant chardonnay is the small area of Sunbury, just 15 minutes from Tullamarine airport. Travel further north and you are soon in the Macedon Ranges, where the impressive landmark, Hanging Rock, soars above vineyards producing equally impressive still and sparkling wines. Or head east to the magnificent Yarra Valley, now as famous for its regional food as its wines. About forty cellar doors, ranging from the grand to the rustic, welcome visitors year round, many with their own restaurants.

Geelong, apart from the burgeoning winegrowing industry is also an emerging food industry hub, which ranges far beyond the seafood for which this maritime city has been known. It is also the gateway to the Great Ocean Road, one of Australia's great coastal drives. It's easy to visit one or two regions in a day as the roads are excellent and with good signage. The other option is to take one of the specialist tours available.

Melbourne as a city has so much to offer that aweek is just not enough to explore it in its entirety. I was told by a few Aussies who know the Indian sub-continent well that Melbourne is like Delhi while Sydney is more like Mumbai, noisy and vibrant.

Sightseeing

NewQuay This is Melbourne's newest dining precinct, offering a waterfront location and a bustling harbourside eating, drinking and shopping experience. The NewQuay bars and cafes cover a broad range of cuisines and are run by some of the biggest names in Melbourne hospitality, as well as sporting stars. Situated opposite Telstra Dome on Victoria Harbour, NewQuay is just one kilometre from the CBD and boasts views of the city, Victoria Harbour and the Bolte Bridge. Melbourne Aquarium Still under development, this aquarium is a smaller version of the famed Sydney Aquarium. It houses varied sea creatures right from sharks to crocodiles to nemos. Melbourne Museum The modernist Melbourne Museum is the largest museum complex in the southern hemisphere. Spread over six levels, half of which are underground, the museum uses latest technology to provide insight into Australia's flora, fauna and culture. Highlights include the Science and Life Gallery, which explores areas such as digital technology, biodiversity and geology; Evolution Gallery, which features life-size dinosaur skeletons; ICE, Australia's only interactive arcade-like cinema game and Forest Gallery.