ISSUE OF SEPTEMBER 2004  
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The Bahamas Jewels Of The Caribbean

Sun-Kissed beaches, rum punches, casinos, lores of bucaneering, pirates, thrilling water sports... Meher Castelino has the time of her life in the Bahamas

There are two ways of going to the Bahamas. One is a quick flight into Nassau from Miami, Florida like all modern day jet setters do. The other is a leisurely cruise from Port Canaveral and sail to the various ports of the Bahamas taking in their natural beauty and earthy atmosphere. I preferred to opt for the latter and till today it has been my most memorable trip ever.

We boarded the Carnival Cruise Super liner, Fantasy and set sail in the afternoon for the magical islands just 50 miles off the coast of Florida. Bahamas comprises of The Grand Bahamas, Great Inagua and 23 inhabited islands along with thousands of unpopulated islets.

What makes the Bahamas amazing is, that it is not one but many destinations all strung together. The main islands are The Abacos, Achlins, Crooked Island, Andros, Berry Islands, Bimini, Eleuthera, Cat Island, Grand Bahama, Inagua, Long Island Mayaguana, Nassau/Paradise Island and San Salvador. We were scheduled to dock in at Freeport in Grand Bahama Island, the nation's second largest city and a sporting paradise, early next morning, but before that we brushed up on our Bahamas' history. After all with 700 islands one has to be a little choosy about how many we should visit.

We zeroed in on Freeport and Nassau, the two most popular cities and ports of this Caribbean archipelago. Although its 1,200 kms sheltered waters attract scores of yachts and there are ports of entry on every island these two cities are the most frequented. Human life existed on the Bahamas around 300-400 AD, according to archaeological digs. While early settlers relied solely on the ocean, the Lucayan Indians, farmers who lived in thatched huts, made their own tools and pottery and were religiously and politically advanced, settled in the Bahamas in the 10th century.

Christopher Columbus arrived in 1492 and enslaved the gentle Lucayanians and shipped them off to work in the mines in Hispaniola. Within 25 years of his arrival the tribe was wiped out. In 1648, a group of English Puritans known as the Eleutheran Adventurers arrived in search of freedom. The tourism industry which is the Bahamas' main money-spinner began in the mid-19th century with the government's support that encouraged the construction of hotels and steamship services.

Prohibition in America brought rich American tourists to the islands and tourism blossomed. After the repeal of Prohibition the Bahamas experienced a slump until 1940s and World War II when the islands served as an air and sea station. The population of the Bahamas today is approximately 275,000 of West African descent whose ancestors were slaves brought to work in the cotton fields. The white residents are descendents of English settlers who emigrated from Bermuda in 1647 for religious freedom. Slavery was abolished by Britain in 1834.

Freeport, the Bahamas' popular town which lives on tourism, offers all the glamour and fun of the Caribbean. The Lucayan Market is still there selling all the local handicrafts. Of course the thrill of shopping in the Bahamas revolves around your skill to bargain. Popular items to pick up are emerald jewellery, straw products and of course T-shirts of all kinds. Everybody young and old, small or big, fat and thin wear T-shirts. Selling T-shirts seems a national pastime - while these are sold everywhere on the roads, hawkers also pitch their little tents in the harbours calling out endearingly to shoppers, `honey, darling take a look at these colourful T-shirts.’

Next stop - Nassau is the capital of the Bahamas and has all the hustle and bustle of a big port. Legends are woven around the buccaneering pirate Blackbeard who stomped around the towns terrorising the people. Driving through Nassau one could feel as if one is either in Mauritius, Seychelles or even our sunny Goa. There is that touch of colonial British culture everywhere mixed with a lively calm of fun and merry making, which engulfs you.

Nassau is a picture of pretty tree lined roads with neat houses, most of them exhibiting that high society touch of affluence. Everywhere there are five-star hotels, casinos and of course the beautiful Victorian mansions all preserved perfectly as tourist attractions. There are cathedrals and 18th century fortresses and of course how could we miss the Queen's Staircase with 66 steps which ended in a magnificent view of the city.

The beaches are dotted with hotels all boasting of the best casinos. The largest casinos do brisk business after dark as tourists and locals alike flock to get a feel of making 'quick money' with just a pull of the lever of the `one-arm bandit’ or the roll of the dice. Nassau also has some of the quaintest English pubs like the Green Shutters where one can relax and have a pint of beer.

While Great Britain gave the islands of the Bahamas self-government in 1964 and in 1969 the colony of the Bahamas became a part of the Commonwealth and legally became an independent nation in 1973, the imprints of the Raj are clearly visible and extend beyond the pubs. History is visible on the streets of Nassau with ancient forts, and elegant architecture. The Parliament Square is the most majestic of places in down town Nassau where the Bahamian government is centered.

For some real ancient drama there is Fort Charlotte built in 1788 with a moat, open battlements and even dungeons. This is a fort that has witnessed several battles with cannon fire thundering and the shrieks of rampaging pirates. Using Nassau as the base we went to Coral Island from where we got a magnificent view of the surrounding islands atop the 100-feet tower. The underwater observatory had to be on our list where we saw stingrays and other creatures of the ocean. If we wanted to we could have posted a `wish you were here, miss you’ post card into the world's only underwater mailbox.

East End is where the rich and famous live in the Bahamas. Large bungalows with romantic verandahs face the sea. Nassau is full of adventure, sports, casinos and life but for those who want something more peaceful there is West Bay Street with its pine trees and rolling hills leading to Cable Beach, aptly nicknamed `Go Slow Bend.’

The Bahamas has that laid back attitude which immediately engulfs you as soon as you step on its shores. Of course, if you are a lover of adventure the sky literally is the limit. There is flying, wind surfing, golf, tennis, snorkeling, diving, cricket (but of course). The place also abounds with colourful stories of the pirates of the Caribbean and the Bahamians will never tire of telling the tales of their favourite pirate Blackbeard.

Getting There
By Air: Flights from Miami or any important city in the USA by Delta Airlines or American Airlines. British Airways has a direct flight from London to Nassau or Freeport. The Bahamas has seven international airports at Nassau, Freeport, Marsh Harbour (Abacos), North Eleuther and Governors Harbour (Eleuthera), George Town (Exumas) and Paradise Island airport

Getting Around
By Cruise ship: It normally takes four days to the Bahamas and back to Miami with stops at Nassau and Freeport.
Except in Nassau and Freeport where there are jitneys (mini buses) travelling by bus is out. There is no public transport, so car rentals are the best. An international driving licence is needed and the age limit is 21-25 years. Other means of transport like motorcycles, scooters and bicycles are available in Freeport and Nassau. Taxis are also available freely in both these towns. Driving is to the left according to British rules.
Intra island flights help to travel between islands. BahamasAir flies between the Grand Bahamas and the Large Out Islands. The schedules are a little erratic. There are also water taxis or inter island ferries, which ply between Nassau and Paradise Islands.

 

Fact File
CLIMATE: Warm round the year with temperatures between 80-85F. Best time to visit September-May. Heavy showers also occur and some hurricanes too. CLOTHING: Most hotels insist on jackets for men in the evening, especially in Nassau and Freeport. Tourists are expected to cover up in churches, restaurants and casinos. CURRENCY: one Bahamian dollar is equivalent to one US dollar.
LANGUAGE: English.
ACCOMMODATION: There are hundreds of hotels on the beach and inland. The Nassau Marriott, Radisson Grand Resort, Paradise Island are some of the big ones besides many smaller ones. There are summer and winter rates starting from USD 45 a night to USD 60 for more than one. Indians can book through the Travel Corporation of India who will guide on cruises as well as hotels and travel.
Eating Out
All international cuisine is available but Bahamian food and drink is unique. Seafood is the staple diet. Conch is a popular fish, which is deep-fried or steamed and added to soup, salads and stews or made into chowder and conch, fritters. Stewed fish with celery, onion, tomatoes and spices is another local dish served with pigeon peas and rice. Crabs are another delicacy eaten boiled or baked. Vegetarians will be happy to note that peas are favourites in The Bahamas for soups with dumplings. The food is not too spicy but well flavoured with local meats. Alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks are served in bars with their own special recipes for rum punch. Coconut water blended with sweet milk and gin is another superb drink. Kalik is The Bahama beer, which is light and wheaty in taste, and when drunk ice cold it is fabulous after a meal. A drink called Switcher made with native limes is one of the best citrus drinks ever.

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