ISSUE OF AUGUST 2004  
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TRAVEL AND THE CITY

How does the first-timer negotiate his way through the big five - Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai and Bangalore?
feBusiness Traveller simplifies travel within these cities…

Mumbai

Mumbai’s location by the Arabian Sea was the prime reason for the British to set base here and for its growth as first, port-cum-trading hub and then by degrees into commercial capital. And it’s also due to its location that distances get exaggerated. Because, for much of its history, the city has grown lengthwise abutting the sea-line. Mumbai, to make it simpler, is thinner than most other metros, making it a very crowded place to be in, thanks to the enormous influx of people and the exponential increase in private transport.

But now for the good part. In any Indian city, for the first-timer, there is always an element of insecurity, be it taxi drivers who literally take you for a ride, bus drivers who refuse to stop at designated spots or callous policemen when you want to register a complaint. In Mumbai, this is minimal. There will be the usual bad egg, of course, but even the redressal system is victim-friendly.

So then, assuming you are here on Mumbai, the places to disembark would be the domestic, international airports, the railway terminuses of Dadar, Kurla, Mumbai Central or Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. The traditional business centre, Nariman Point, is located to the extreme south, about 26 kms from the Santacruz domestic airport and 4 kms more for the international airport. An airport bus service from the airport gets you to Air India building in Nariman Point. In peak hour that would mean a two-hour journey at least. Connecting the two airports is a shuttle bus which plies at regular intervals. The airports are also very well connected to the rest of the city. Both are less than half-an-hour by car to the new business centre, Bandra-Kurla Complex, which is fast giving competition to Nariman Point. The Andheri (East) area where numerous corporate offices are shifting base to, is also the region where the international airport is located.

The safest option from the airport is the prepaid taxi. Alternatively, you can walk out and take a metered taxi or autorickshaw. This is also a good bet and slightly less expensive. Remember that autorickshaws don’t go beyond a point called Mahim towards the south and therefore, if the destination is, say Nariman Point, then one has to take a taxi. Autorickshaws start at a minimum fare of Rs 9 and then for every additional 10 point reading, the fare increases by Rs 1. After midnight the minimum is Rs 11.50. For taxis, the minimum is Rs 13 (after midnight Rs 16.50) and for every 10 point increase in meter the fare goes up by Rs 1.50 (after midnight it increases by Rs 2). The whole of Mumbai is dotted with autorickshaws and taxis. If you believe that you are being fleeced, just approach a traffic policeman or even the regular police. They are are very approachable and should resolve the issue then and there, under normal circumstances.

If you need to go to a number of places in a day, then the most convenient option is a tourist taxi. For about Rs 1,300 you would have an Esteem at your disposal for eight hours up to 80 kilometres. After that every additional kilometre would cost Rs 8. The price could vary depending on the make and model of the vehicle.

Now we come to public transport, and the only advise to give the first-timer is ‘avoid it as much as possible’. Not because it is unreliable or difficult to figure out, as would happen in any other city. Far from it, the local trains are the fastest and the most ubiquitous medium of transport. The BEST bus network is recognised as the most efficient in the country. The problem is the the enormous number of people they cater to. You might still take your chance in the bus but, it is going to be a pretty long journey if you want to bridge distant ends of the city. On the trains, if you plan to venture out during peak hours, forget it. You might go to one of the stations purely for sightseeing purposes, to view how Mumbaikars perform death-defying stunts to get a foothold inside a compartment. But a journey in one of them - forget it.

Delhi

Delhi is almost bursting to its seams, fanning out on all sides around a circular arterial road called Ring Road. Both the domestic and the international airports are located at the fag end of southwest Delhi and it takes a good one hour or more to travel from the airport to the city centre in peak hours. Delhi's business activity is mainly concentrated in the business districts of Connaught Place in Central Delhi, Nehru Place and Bhikaji Cama Place in South Delhi, Rajendra Place in West Delhi, the south-western suburb of Gurgaon and eastern suburb of Noida. In addition, Delhi has five industrial zones Okhla and Qutub industrial areas in the periphery of South Delhi, Naraina and Mayapuri industrial areas in the west and Wazirpur in the north. While most embassies are located in the diplomatic enclave at Chanakyapuri, some embassies and big business houses are concentrated in the spacious, posh residential areas of south Delhi.

The city scores a big zero when it comes to public transport system. Buses are not very frequent, stops are far and few in between, after eight it is difficult to get one, and most importantly, you need to know the route. There are the less-crowded Whiteline buses, of course, which connect Connaught Place to different parts of the city. For instance, Whiteline services run every ten minutes between Noida, Mayur Vihar and Connaught Place. The one that plies between New Delhi railway station and Alaknanda (south Delhi) touches base at Nehru Place and Connaught Place.

Unlike Mumbai and Kolkata, you don't find empty meter-taxis plying on roads. So, forget waving at a yellow-black, flagging down the meter and speeding away. Here taxis are to be called from taxi booths, which means one has to locate a booth in a locality to hire a taxi. However, you find three-wheelers everywhere. While the meter down is Rs 8 and thereafter Rs 3. 50 per km, more often than not drivers quote a lumpsum. Insist on going by the meter and ask for the rate card in case of doubts about the fare. Or else, bargain and pay Rs 10-15 less.

When you get down at the domestic or international airport, take a pre-paid cab, or ask the hotel to arrange a pick up. That saves you from getting fleeced. But don't expect a pre-paid taxi booth at any of the railway stations - New Delhi (2 kms from Connaught Place), Old Delhi (in north 10 kms from Connaught Place) and Nizamuddin (in south Delhi). The capital city doesn't offer such facilities. So, trust your bargaining power and call the police in case you want a fair deal.

Navigating the city is not easy. Blame its expanse, chaotic jam, unruly driving, stray cows relaxing in the midst of roads and the metro rail construction (the Inter State Bus Terminus will be connected to Connaught Place by September). Commuting from north to south may take one-and-a-half to two hours during office time. Even commuting between two places in south Delhi, say Nehru Place to Dhaula Kuan, takes around 45 minutes to one hour. So, the best way to beat commuting time is to stay close to the place of your business interest. If you are staying with your friends or relatives then plan your itinerary in such a way that you finish meetings in one part of the city before you move to the other part.

For a business traveller who has to squeeze in many meetings in his day's schedule, it is better to hire a car from a tourist transport operator. Pay anywhere between Rs 450-900 for an A/C car for half day (four hours/40 kms) and Rs 900-7,000 for full day (8 hours/80 kms) depending on the model. You can take a Delhi cab to Gurgaon or Noida, but will have to pay an additional road tax of Rs 25 and Rs 450 respectively. Or else, ask the hotel to get you a meter taxi and pay waiting charge in addition to meter rent. Both will give you bills.

If you are on a leisure trip, feel free to take a three-wheeler. They are a safe, economical bet and go both short and long distances.

Kolkata

For the first-timer, negotiating Kolkata has been a bit of an unsavoury experience. Roads clogged by long processions and demonstrators, unwilling taxi drivers, a few hostile policemen, unfamiliar road signs in an alien language and people lazing around in groups discussing their two favourite pastimes -football and politics over a cup of tea. But this image is fast changing. Kolkata is slowly but steadily getting better with state-of-the-art flyovers, wider and cleaner roads, more disciplined traffic and public transport system and much better civic amenities. Slow-moving trams clogging the main thoroughfares are getting to be a thing of the past.

If you touch down at Netaji Subhas International Airport, popularly known as the Dum Dum Airport, 22 kms from the Central Business District (CBD), a prepaid taxi availed for about Rs 200 will get you to the CBD and its many hotels.

And they do have a lot of vehicles to manage. Kolkata's unique public-transport system includes nearly 1,500 public buses, 7,000 privately-owned buses, 7,500 black and yellow taxis, 29,500 yellow taxis, 2,000 red and yellow minibuses, 15,000 registered and unregistered auto-rickshaws (which ply on designated routes and fares, they don't run on meters), slow-moving electric trams on some parts of the city and hand-pulled rickshaws plying in some parts of northern and southern Kolkata. Apart from these there are school buses, private cars and cars run by car rental agencies.

The minimum fare for buses is Rs 3, which is one of the lowest in the country for the first three kms going up to Rs 5-7 depending upon the distance travelled. Incidentally, there were violent protests by opposition parties when the state government decided to raise the fare of public transport recently following the hike in fuel prices. For taxis, the minimum fare is Rs 15 for the first two kilometres which increases @ 50 paisa for every next 500 meters in case of manually operated metered taxis and Re 1 in case of electronic-metered taxis. The minimum fare for the autos is Rs 3 and one can bargain for a best deal with the hand-pulled rickshawpullers depending upon the weather. This is because they call the shots when the city roads are flooded during monsoons. Otherwise the lowest minimum fare varies between Rs 8-10.

Beside these modes of transport, lakhs of people commute between the suburbs and the city through the two important railheads, namely, Howrah and Sealdah by the suburban rails. Nearly 550 pairs of EMU local trains originate from these two stations and the suburban towns and cities. The minimum fare on EMU local trains is Rs 5. One can avail local train services till midnight. Commuters can also avail of pre-paid taxi services from Howrah Station. The best way to commute from Howrah Station to CBD is through the pre-paid taxis.

As most of the taxi-drivers are from Bihar, Jharkhand and Punjab, language is not a problem if you know a spattering of Hindi. Most of them understand and speak Hindi beside Bengali and they are usually courteous with passengers. If you have a problem, the Taxi Refusal Centre can be contacted for speedy redressal. There are several car rental companies where different models are available on rent. Most of the private and public buses, autos go off the road after 11 in the night.

Another convenient way of moving round the city is the underground railway system. The Metro Railway, as it is popularly called, runs between Tollygunge on the south and Dum Dum on the northern extreme. The minimum fare is Rs 4, which goes up to a maximum of Rs 8. A ride from Tollygunge to Dum Dum takes 33 minutes with 16 stations in between.

Chennai

Chennai stretches about 19 km along the Coromandel Coast and extends about 8 km inland and covers an area of about 130 sq km.

Every nook and corner of the metropolis is well connected by road and rail. The popular train network, otherwise known as the Mass Rapid Transit System (MRTS), runs across the city right from Tambaram to Marina Beach. The suburban railway system has three arms via which the suburbs of Tambaram, Avadi and Ennore. The major suburban stations in the city - Chennai Central and Chennai Beach - even have bus stands. There are trains every 10 minutes right through the day. Crisscrossing six stations, the MRTS gives a sneak peek of the fabulous Marina beach from the compartment window. The minimum fare is Rs 5 on MRTS and Rs 4 on other lines. The monthly and quarterly passes are available if you are a regular.

You don't like trains! Take the Metropolitan Transport Corporation (MTC), the city bus service. Chennai boasts of having one of the best public transport systems in the country. Buses move freely across the city and keep to arrival and departure timings. Tickets and passes are issued point-to-point based on distance. It can of course get crowded at times but they are better than trains. Recently the Central Mofussil Bus Terminus (CMBT) was opened in Koyambedu in Chennai. This is the largest bus terminus in South Asia and serves all outstation buses. You can take buses to any place within or outside the city from this terminus.

Now for the black sheep in the family. Autorickshaws in Chennai are the most infamous among metros. They are adept at getting unimaginable fares from tourists, particularly foreigners who don't know the language. Most auto drivers speak only Tamil with a bit of broken English here and there. "Autos definitely charge a lot higher than the actual rates," Nithya K Sundaram, executive, Everonn Systems India Ltd.

If you still go ahead and choose an auto, be ready to face the consequences. There are some good guys to be fair, who might even charge you the minimum auto fare of Rs 10 which is set to be implemented but don't bet on it. According to Tara Chandra a Chennai local, "Autos in Chennai and Bangalore operate similarly. Both are supposed to use the meter but prefer not to. One just fixes a rate and goes ahead."

Private taxis are available in Chennai but can be unreliable. The minimum fare is Rs 100, which is not the standard rate. Today call taxis are the most happening. The call taxi undertakes to convey you to any destination within the city and distant areas. You just have to book the cab in advance over the telephone. When a call comes in, the operator on duty takes down your address and phone number. The car nearest to your boarding point is notified over wireless, and the vehicle picks you up in the shortest possible time. After you reach the destination, all you have to do is give the money as per the meter. "The call taxi system is a boon to Chennai. It is very similar to the cool cabs system in Mumbai. Call, travel and pay is their motto," says Anish Mehta another localite.

A tourist taxi takes payment on per-day or hourly basis with the minimum being Rs 100. The call taxis charge Rs 30 for the first two kilometres and Rs 9 for every kilometre thereafter. If you want efficient and cost effective travel within the city, call taxis are your best bet. Most cab drivers know some English so you can manage to get your point across.

Coming to connectivity from Anna International Airport in Chennai, you can get pre paid taxis or call taxis from the airport into the city quite easily. The airport is also conveniently accessible to all major hotels such as Residency, Savera, Sindoori, Taj etc… There are no autos at the airport so you will not even be tempted to take one. If you have a problem just lodge a complaint with the police booth at the airport.

Bangalore

Bangalore used to give an impression that it's the future 'happening' city of the country. And to certain extent, it is true. There has been much development, however, when it comes to infrastructure there is only one way to describe it - pathetic. The city offers a striking contrast: India's finest base of engineering talent also suffers from bad roads.

A city smaller in size than Mumbai or Delhi, but expanding at a fast pace, Bangalore takes comparatively lesser time in travel from any one point to the other. The peak hours are from 9 am to 11 am and 5 pm to 7.30 pm and this is marked by minor traffic jams.

Public transportation is a major problem area and Bangalore's roads are in poor shape. Though the Karnataka government has made rapid strides in the last three years with ring roads, inner and outer, coming to relieve the pressure, the problem of choked traffic continues. The ring roads might be wide but they connect to narrow roads leading to traffic bottlenecks.

A very commonly used mode of transport is the metered autorickshaw. But unlimited issuing of licences to run autorickshaws has increased accidents and pollution. The minimum fare is Rs 10 and the meter starts rolling after 2 kilometre. New electronic meters have been made compulsory, but most autos run with conventional flag-down fare-meter. The electronic meters are more reliable as it even shows the kilometres travelled. There are no conversion charts applicable in Bangalore. If new to the city, feigning familiarity is a must at railway stations, bus stands and airports otherwise you are asking for trouble. 'One-and-a-half meter' starts from 10 pm and depending on the distance it may go to 'double meter'. After about 7 am, the meter charge comes to effect. The Bangalore airport and railway stations have pre-paid autos and taxis. Most drivers are quite comfortable with Hindi. English is also understood.

Another comfortable mode of travel is the 'city taxi'. These are a very convenient and comfortable option, but city taxies are slightly more expensive. These are Maruti Omni Vans which are quite fast. The rates are Rs 35 for 4 km (minimum) and Rs 9 for every extra kilometre. Different kinds of taxis ply the city, namely city taxis, radio taxis, spot taxis, roman taxis and garden city taxis. The charge between 10 pm to 6 am is 'one-and-a-half-meter'.

There are very few yellow-top taxis in the city, mostly around the airport area, but tourist taxis are easily available from agencies, hotels and taxi stands. Karnataka State Tourism Development Corporation (KSTDC) maintains a fleet of cars for hire.

The city also runs an efficient city-bus service, but the buses are usually crowded and take a long time to reach a destination which otherwise would have taken half the time.

Business districts in Bangalore are about 18 to 20 kilometres from the heart of the city. The best way to reach these districts, viz Electronic city, Whitefield, Peenya, Diamond District etc, is by auto or city taxi. The present airport is about 10 km from the heart of the city and the best mode of travel is by an auto. All hotels are within a radius of 5 km from the commercial heart of the city.

The self-driven, rented car concept is finding takers now, even though it has been around for about a decade. The car rentals need you to be 25, have a license, passport and credit card. A refundable advance deposit ranging from Rs 7,500 to Rs 25,000, depending on the car rental has to be paid. Rental agencies offer cars in Economy, Compact, Intermediate, Standard, and Full-Size segments. You can rent the car for a day, week, or a month. In case it is a day, it would cost you anywhere between Rs 1,500 and Rs 2,800 depending on the car you rent.

In case of problems with the auto, which is often the case, one could approach the traffic police or the mobile police, 'Hoysala' (which is mostly around during night times).

(Inputs from Anindita Chattopadhyay in Delhi, Madhavankutty Pillai in Mumbai, Joy Roy Choudhary in Kolkata, Lakshmi Subramanian in Chennai and Vyas Sivanand in Bangalore)

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