Take A Hike

Achal Dhruva walks you through the Sahyadri Range, off Mumbai, in three scenic monsoon treks

En route to Garbet Point, Matheran; pic: Bindi Shah

The euphoria of dark clouds, flashes of lightning, cool gusts of wind and a few initial showers give way to slush, potholed roads, local trains running late and chaotic traffic. Most Mumbaikars relate monsoon with misery. Instead of sipping a hot 'cuppa' coffee or nursing a 'stiff one' with bhajias at home, to tide over the monsoon blues, escape on a trek to the Sahyadris to experience and enjoy the sheer 'magic of the monsoon.' It's a 'wet-n-wild' world out there, one complete with misty mountain peaks, cascading waterfalls, gushing streams, thick jungles and soothing greens.

The Sahyadri Range, with its rugged topography, historic forts, rocky mountains, huge lakes and extensive forest cover, is an excellent locale for hiking/trekking and camping. While in almost all the mountainous regions of the world, rain means 'bad weather', in the Sahyadris the monsoon is the most beautiful season for trekking. During the rains, it is like a water colour painting which is still wet.

Trekkers have a wide variety of enchanting places catering to differing levels of capability and experience. Most treks are either an overnight or a one day affair. Easily accessible by rail or road, the range starts 60 to 70 kms outside Mumbai and offers one a quick back to nature adrenaline trip to recharge your batteries to face the humdrum of city life. However, the best part about trekking in the Sahyadris is that anyone in reasonably good shape can do it. It requires no training whatsoever, except for a few peaks which need technical expertise to scale. The bottom line is the spirit of adventure. Featured below are three easy treks with rough directions. So GO TAKE A HIKE!

Garbet Point (Matheran, 2,516 feet)

View of plateau just below Garbet Point; pic: Sherwin noronha

The thrill of the toy train to Matheran is passe compared to the joy of climbing up this verdant and popular hill station. Matheran turns into a hiker's/trekker's playground during the monsoon with various groups climbing points like Garbet, One Tree Hill, Rambagh and Porcupine. While all the routes are well defined with easy climbs, Garbet is the easiest among the lot.

For Garbet, it's best to catch the last Karjat local from CST at 12.44 a.m. and alight at Bhivpuri station (one stop before Karjat), a two-and-half-hour journey. Start your hike at around 5 a.m. by crossing the tracks at the Karjat end of the station into the east, cutting across fields and a small slumbering village. Outside the village you hit a trail next to a school which will lead you past fields and over a small hill until you descend to a fast moving stream. A plunge in this stream is a must to enjoy the cold water biting through your skin. A sure shot wake up call if you have been sleepwalking till then.

Trekkers having a wild time; pic: Achal Dhruva

Just after the stream a path climbs up rather steeply. Follow this path till you reach another village at a height. Above this village is your immediate target - the Garbet plateau. A short steep climb and you are on the narrow plateau, which offers a panoramic view of the valley on both sides. Standing on the fresh grass, perpetually doing the Mexican wave and watching the swirling mist playing hide-n-seek with the valley view, don't be surprised if you burst out singing, "Dil hai chotta sa, chotti si asha, masti bhare man ki, chotti si asha, chand taro ko choone ki asha, aasmano me udne ki asha," from the film Roja. From the plateau it is a short steep ascend to the top. The path is very narrow and on one side there is a sheer drop of some thousand odd feet into the valley. At times the wind blows really hard on this exposed part and it can be quite scary for the lightweights.

From Garbet point it's three kilometres to the market square of Matheran and another two kilometres to Dasturinaka, the road leading down to Neral. If you are too tired hop into a cab but the eight kilometre walk down is worthwhile for the waterfalls. Besides two small falls on the road there is a wonderful waterfall, a 10-minute walk from Jumapatti station, to recharge yourself. But this fall is most likely to be crowded. Postman's Trail from Waterpipe station is another good option for those who don't like trudging on tar. Walk for five minutes from the station towards Neral and on the left you will see a well identified path going down. It is the trail, a short cut to Neral. However, the trail is steep and slippery at places.

Peth or Kotlighad (1,550 feet)

Waterfall on the way to Rajmachi; pic: Ashok Patil

This is yet another small fort perched on top of a mountain detached from the main range. The rocky pinnacle stands out like a lone sentinel amidst the lush green countryside. Peth has an interesting fortification in the shape of a funnel with a rocky staircase carved in the middle. The fort is called Kotlighad due to this funnel. The large cave at the base of the fortification is good for setting up camp as it has water tanks around it and stays relatively dry during monsoon.

The climb to the top is quite easy and gentle except for a few stretches at the end. The trek offers some amazing views of the valley with innumerable cascading silver streaks and passes through thickly wooded parts. Halfway to the peak is the small village of Peth where you can gorge on piping hot dal-chawal and bhakri-sabhji. The peak is generally enveloped in mist and is a beautiful experience.

Once again catch the last train to Karjat. After alighting at Karjat head for the ST bus stand and catch the first morning bus to Ambivili village via Kashale. Please make sure that you have boarded the bus for Peth-Ambivili village as there are a lot of Ambivili villages in this region. Take the tar road on the right just before entering Ambivili village and after five minutes you will come across a well defined mud track going up on your left. It is the path which leads you to Peth village, a four kilometre walk from Ambivili village. From here an easy climb of not more than 45 minutes to the top follows. A huge picturesque pond with mud embankment and the backdrop of the mountain behind Ambivili village is the perfect setting for an end-of-the-trek swim (it is deep, non-swimmers should stick to within a few feet of the shore) before getting into a fresh pair of underwear.

Rajmachi (lonavala, 2,050 feet)

Valley view on way to Rajmachi; pic: Ashok Patil

This is a long one (about 16 kms) but nevertheless an enjoyable walk with hardly any climb involved. The trek to Rajmachi is interesting for the twin forts, Shreevardhan and Manorajan outside the village and an ancient temple with a really huge water tank. Swimming in the deep icy cold water of the tank enveloped with mist is an out-of-this-world experience. The valley view from the plateau, a 10-minute walk from the tank, is breathtaking with huge horseshoe waterfalls on one side and the railway line snaking up the ghats on the other.

Among the forts Shreevardhan, is more interesting with a few secret tunnels leading to the battlements. There are also two caves in Shreevardhan that are of Buddhist origin. Manoranjan offers a good view of the plains and has some rock cut caves at the base which date back to ancient India when the Bhor ghat was an important trade route and Buddhist monks used the hills long before they were fortified to guard the pass.

To reach Rajmachi walk from the ST stand in Lonavala towards Pune on the old Mumbai-Pune highway and turn left near a petrol pump on the route to Tungarli lake. A slight climb will lead you to the dam wall of the lake and a dirt track turns left. Follow this track to Tungarli village. After the village the path descends through some foliage and will hit a broad dirt road, turn right and the road leads all the way to Rajmachi. The forts are visible directly across the valley and seem very close, but that is as the crow flies. In reality the dirt road is one long big U and it will take you around three hours to reach the village at a good pace. Soothing shades of green and the occasional small waterfall spraying upwards due to strong gusts of wind make it an interesting and pleasant walk.

Ancient sculptures at the base of Shreevardhan and Manoranjan forts, Rajmachi; pic: Ashok Patil

After walking for about two hours you will arrive at a fork in the trail, take the path on the left which leads to Rajmachi. Ten minutes later you hit a stream which after a heavy downpour can become a torrent. Otherwise it is the best place to take a break and wallow in the shallow waters. Wade downstream for about ten minutes and you have a 10 to 12 feet waterfall with a small pool. Mostly shallow, the pool is great fun. Swimmers can also go sit under the fall for a good massage. However, it is advisable to first judge the water level and force, which can increase alarmingly in a short span of time if there is a heavy downpour.

This is a trek worth spending two days. Leave for Lonavala close to midnight
(private buses and Sumos available from Dadar TT) and start your trek at first light. You will reach the village by 10 a.m. or 11 a.m. affording you with enough time to explore the place post lunch and a short nap. All houses in the village accommodate trekkers and provide simple meals, tea and snacks. The nachni bhakri, thecha (fiery chutney) and pithla (Maharashtrian speciality) are simply delicious.

Retracing your steps is not as exciting a proposition as climbing down the mountain to Kondewadi village on the Karjat side. From the village take a well defined trail to the western edge. The mud trail initially is steep and really slippery. It winds down the mountain and there is a stretch where you are descend over rocks with water cascading alongside. There are arrows on stones to mark the way all along the path. Halfway you can take a right to reach Kondana Caves, rock cut Buddhist caves with a stupa, chaitya, vihara and sculptures. A waterfall from the overhang above acts like a screen to a small part of the caves. There are several large bee hives at the cave entrance, so avoid smoking, peeling oranges or cutting onion or garlic nearby, as these can agitate the bees and cause them to attack.

The trail ends at a small hamlet and a walk of slightly over a kilometre will get you to the main market square of Kondewadi where you can board a bus or take a share-an-auto (11 seater Vikram) to Karjat station, 14 kms away.