Arabian Bites

Chef Kaviraj Khialani gets into the flavours of Arabic cuisine

Arabic cuisine has its roots in tent cookery and goes hand in hand with Arab hospitality. People travelling in the hostile desert environment often had to depend on the hospitality of others. Even today, at the busiest of offices or shops, there is always time to offer visitors a glass of refreshing lime, tea, or a thimble-sized bowl of cardamom flavoured Arabic coffee (ghava).

The desert tradition is recalled when on small get-togethers a cloth is spread over a carpet and guests seated on cushions use their thumb, and the first two fingers of the right hand to scoop food piled on a large communal copper tray called 'saniya'. As food plays a very important role in Arab hospitality, the Arab housewife will at all times see to it that there is sufficient quantity to allow for an unexpected guest. Food is always offered and accepted only with the right hand.

Initially, the recipes of the nomadic tribes mostly featured foods which could be easily transported in large quantities such as rice, dates or ambulatory stock like sheep and camels. As the caravans journeyed through the Middle-East, new seasonings and vegetables were discovered and added to the existing repertoire. Cinnamon, saffron, cardamom, aromatic rice, succulent dates from Iraq, fishes like zubiedi (pomfrets), king size gulf prawns, spiced lamb, and enticing flakes from meat bones are just a few things which go to make Arabic cuisine today.

The Bedouin influence is broadened by other cuisines from the Arab world, notably from Syria, Lebanon, Morocco, Palestine and Egypt. A buffet in an Arab home would display a combination of Lebanese starters, Egyptian snacks and dips, Moroccan main courses and adapted sweets and Turkish coffee.

Rice is said to be one of the favourites of the Arabs and they have it with most of their main courses. It is a perfect accompaniment to the variety of Marag (Arabic curries) which usually comes along with a choice of vegetables like marrow and eggplant. It is also used in making some desserts like muhallabiya pudding which uses a rice paste cooked in thickened sweetened milk, garnished with nuts and saffron, at times flavoured with orange.

Besides rice, the Arabs make liberal use of seafood and meat. The Arabian waters flourish with a variety of fish and seafood, the most popular being the zubiedi, sheem, shoum, hammour. It also features a variety of shrimps, lobsters and crabs, which are an all time favourite of the Arabs. Meat is processed in the 'halal' style, slaughtered according to Islamic rites. Pork and alcohol is strictly prohibited. On celebratory occasions, a preparation called 'ouzi' - lamb roast stuffed with baby chickens and eggs, rice and nuts - is very popular.

Besides the normal fare, one key component of Arabic cuisine is tea and coffee. There is no spot in the Arab world without a tea- or coffee-house. One of the most famous of this beverage is the Turkish Coffee. This dark concoction is usually highly sweetened, served in small china cups without any handles. The guest is usually asked if he wishes to have his coffee; murra - unsweetened, mazboota - medium sweet or helva - very sweet. It is prepared in a vessel called 'rakwi' or a tanaka.

A few words of caution about it though - the ground coffee in the beverage is not to be swallowed; secondly, do not expect a caffeine surge. It is not strong coffee, but just a thick concentration, and most important, it is the company that matters, for coffee is just a mere excuse.

It is interesting to note that authentic Arabic cuisine can be easily modified to suit Indian palates. For example, it is really interesting to have something like hummus flavoured with chaat masala and taboulleh with mint. Arabic curries with Indian spices and vegetables also taste remarkably well. What till recently Indians found unappealing, is now picking up in metros like Mumbai.

(The writer is a hotel management & catering technology professional, creative cookery expert, and author of a book on Arabic cookery)