Coastly Fare

Rashmi Uday Singh’s

Good Food Guide

This is it! The finest coastal food experience of the country. There are no two ways about it, I have been eating at Bangalore's 'Karavalli' ever since it opened 14 years ago and I can confidently put my money where my mouth is when I say that it has been serving consistently good food from the south west coast of India, covering Goa, Karwar, Mangalore and Malabar.

Everything about this specialty restaurant is unique. From the home-style recipes which have been standardised to the ambience of a Mangalorean home (open courtyard et al). They have an air-conditioned section as well. Masterminding the recipes and keeping a vigilant eye on the authenticity of ingredients as well as the recipes, since the inception of 'Karavalli', is the 36-year-old genius, Executive Chef Naren Thimmaiah BU. Hailing from a Coorgi family, Chef Thimmaiah travelled extensively along the Konkan and Malabar coasts as understudy to housewives and the result is ours to taste.

He ensures that the ingredients are procured from original sources: perfectly smoked kodumpalli from Kerala, toddy vinegar from Goa and Coondapur coconuts for their firm white flesh.

With the perfect balancing of coconut (be it milk, oil, ground or roasted) with the souring agents (tamarind, kokum, raw mango, tomato or vinegar), each dish is a symphony in flavors and textures. Take your pick…from the awesome fried 'Kane Bezule' fish, 'Tiger Prawns Malabar-style' to 'Crab Milagu Fry': all seafood lovers will do well to drop anchor here. Seer fish, kane, karimeen, squid and more.

If you are not into seafood then go for the perennial favourites like the Mutton Pepper Fry or the Coorg Fried Chicken. Vegetarians are taken care of too, Gobi Kempu, Bhindi Bardez, Button Onion Curry, Avial, Calicut Brinjal Curry, Vegetable Stew and many other dishes are served here. Try the Ulithial made of shallots cooked in grated roasted coconut and just don't miss those fluffy appams with lacy edges and spongy bellies eaten with the silky coconutty stew.

I recommend the thalis for those looking to sample the variety here. Go for the 'Palm-fringed Vegetarian Thali' (Rs 300) which serves up four veggies, sambar, rice/appams/parathas topped off with payasam. Even the non-veggie 'Catamaran lunch' (Rs 340) with its fish and chicken dishes, two veggies, rice, appams, parathas is worth checking out.

Do wind up with the ripe nendram banana cooked in milk and jaggery (Pazham Pradhaman) or the coconut ice-cream with Bibinca and Dodhol. If you are lucky (like I am) then do chat with the brilliant chef Thimmaiah and feast yourself on the knowledge and passion he has for his culinary creations. All this while soaking in the green of the trees and eating unerringly cooked food out of gleaming banana leaves in copper plates. It is undoubtedly, the finest coastal food experience you can savour!