A family affair

Rashmi Uday Singh’s Good Food Guide

My heart skips a beat and time stands still here. All roads definitely do lead to this city which is itself as old as the seven hills around it. In Rome time and beauty are viewed and measured on an altogether grander scale. It is bewitching, exhausting, romantic and I savour the art of Michelangelo, Bernini's fountains, cobbled streets with as much gusto as I do the food here. Each region has its own cuisine and I am happy to report that Italy has 20 such regions. Rome is the capital of the Lazio region and I love some of their specialties here… the carciofi alla Romana (Artichokes stuffed with mint and garlic and slow cooked in olive oil) and that "Angry penne" (Pasta Arrabiata) done with tomatoes and peperoncino " also "Anguille", the famous eels (which one is supposed to eat with Est! Est! Est!).

The Roman Saltimbocca (sautéed veal cutlets topped with fresh sage and proscuitto crudo) lives up to its name and jumps in the mouth. I find out that Rome has very few international cuisine-restaurants of any consequence but outstanding Italian ones. Only five restaurants hold Michelin stars here (including Le Terazza, on the terrace of my hotel Eden) but the one which fascinates me is the family run "Agata e Romeo" run by a husband and wife team.

Romeo (pronounced Rome-ay-o) Caraccio runs this small, stylish seven-table dining room in this Liberty style temple to creative Roman cuisine. His wife Agata Parisella is the queen of the kitchen and now their daughter Marie Antoinette is training with her parents as sommelier and chef. Go only if in a mood to splurge, because it is an expensive restaurant. Check out their degustation menu (paired with wines) and priced at a steep 125 Euro. Their a la carte menu is a work of art and science as Agata prepares rich and creative concoctions with the finest of fish, meat and veggies. When the exquisitely plated scallops wrapped with salt cured panchetta, celery and potatoes cream are served I am in ecstasy. They offer superb options, be it octopus salami, or the sweet garlic soup (another must try). I love the lamb prepared in four different ways and enjoy the stewed sword fish, but it's when the separate menu "I Dolci di Agata" is served up, that the triple chocolate mousse with sabayon sauce sends me to triple heaven. Veggies have a couple of options from each course. A comprehensive wine list, great wine recommendations from Romeo, the fact that the restaurant is housed in centuries old building where Agata's family ran an Osteria all add to the charm. The fact that Agata and Romeo met in the University of Rome while he was studying medicine and decided to partner in life and in food is a blessing for us. Not only have they produced a wonderful daughter but also brought up this restaurant which has held its Michelin star for eight years. Long live Agata e Romeo.