Istanbul: ontinental onnection

Inder Raj Ahluwalia treads his way through a turkish melting pot of history and culture

Reclining on the western shore of the Bosphorus, with one arm reaching out to Asia and the other to Europe, it's a city that's embraced the world's most ancient civilisations. The former capital of three successive empires: Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman, Istanbul is crammed with history, yet appears refreshingly young. It preserves the legacy of its past, but has this certain freshness that seems inclined more towards the present and future. Which is good news for visitors.

On Arrival

I'd arrived with an open mind. That helped, making it much easier to absorb the layers of history and heritage that come through in the museums, churches, grand mosques, palaces, and bazaars of this throbbing metropolis of 12 million.

Depending on your interest, there's plenty to see tucked away in the city's folds. And the greatest asset is its subtle 'east-west' blend that gives everything a romantic edge. At the risk of sounding prosaic, I advise caution while out sightseeing. Not from a law and order angle - the city's safe enough - but because of the sheer burden of history entombed in magnificent monuments across the city.

Starting Out

My city sojourn started on a touristic note. The morning sun was still a pale gold when we arrived at one of the conventional city must-sees. On a finger of land at the confluence of the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmara, the Topkapi Palace is a maze of buildings that was the heart of the Ottoman Empire between the 15th and 19th Centuries. It was from these opulent surroundings that the Sultans and their court lived and governed.

The next couple of hours were a journey into the fabulous world of the Ottoman Sultans. Providing a regal sense of space is a magnificent garden that fills the outer court, while the second court houses the palace kitchens - now serving as galleries exhibiting the imperial collections of crystal, silver and Chinese porcelain. To the left is the Harem. The third court holds the Hall of Audience, the Library of Ahmet 111, an exhibition of imperial costumes, the jewels of the treasury and a priceless collection of miniatures from medieval manuscripts. In the centre of this innermost sanctuary, the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle enshrines the relics of the Prophet Mohammed.

A fierce drizzle welcomed us when we reemerged into the open, and kept us company all the way to Sultan Ahmed Square. With the Blue Mosque squatting majestically on one side and St. Sophia on the other, this is Turkey's most famous site and I must confess feeling dwarfed by the magnificent monuments here that have been national showpieces for centuries.

The Basilica of Hagia Sophia (Holy Wisdom), now called the Ayasofya Museum, is without question one of the finest buildings of all time. Its exterior is grand but plain, but inside, it's a world in itself. Built by Constantine the Great and reconstructed by Justinian in the 6th Century, its immense dome rises 55 metres high and its diameter spans 31 metres. Byzantine mosaics embellish the interiors.

Once again we came out into the drizzle for the short walk across the square. Across from Hagia Sophia stands the supremely majestic, six-minareted Imperial Sultanahmet Mosque, known as the Blue Mosque because of its interior paneling of blue and white Iznik tiles. Set in spacious gardens, the mosque sports a stunning façade that's as intrinsic to Istanbul's skyline as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris'. Summer months feature an evening sound and light show.

Lunching at the Istanbul Dubb Restaurant, one of only two really famous Indian eateries in the city, I took in the view of the historical jewels of the area. The meal itself was everything an Indian could desire: 'Nan', 'kachumbar salad' 'samosa', 'chicken curry', 'millijuli subzi', 'pulaoo', and 'phirney' for desert. I could well have been in downtown Delhi with my hungry belly!

On the move again, we arrived at another city landmark. Built by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1452 prior to his capture of Istanbul, Rumeli Hisari (European Fortress) is among the world's most beautiful works of military architecture. In the castle is the 'open-air museum' amphitheatre that stages events of the Istanbul Music Festival.

Its walls decorated with superb mosaics, the Kariye Museum, the 11th century church of 'St. Savior' in the Chora complex, is the most important Byzantine monument in Istanbul after Hagia Sophia. Illustrating scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary, the brilliantly coloured mosaics embody the vigor of Byzantine art.

Night Life

If you're a night bird, the thing to do here is just take it easy. Unlike Paris or New York, you don't have to seek out night action. It comes to you. Literally. The belly dancers weave their way sinuously to your table, flirt with you, get photographed with you (you can buy your photo), and lead you onstage if you dare. There are plenty of classy night clubs around but I'd put my money on Kapvansaray Restaurant & Night Club that features a superb dinner, cultural and belly-dancing show, live band, and plenty of atmosphere.

The Morning After

The next morning you can start your day with a visit to one of the renowned local Turkish Baths locally know as 'hammam'. The heart of the establishment is the steam room, normally a grand circular enclosure with a central dome, marble pillars, and Byzantine design, a central platform, and enclosures along the walls where one gets generously doused with hot water, then massaged. And in case you're worried about privacy, most have separate sections for men and women. I got my first-hand experience at one that's considered among the original and most authentic in the city.

Tucked away in the folds of the city, Cagaloglu Hammam is a 300 year-old traditional Turkish Bath that's clung on to its proud lineage. One enters through a small foyer four feet below street level, and immediately slips into a delightful world of steam, spray and incense. One then enters a large, square room with a high domed ceiling with a single suspended chandelier and a single fountain in the centre, posters on the walls, cabins alongside (including a barber counter), and 'The Old Marble Café & Restaurant' that's fed generations of visitors over the years.

Setting Sail

Exploring historical monuments is just one part of the Istanbul experience. Don't even think of missing out on the much-hyped boat cruises on the Strait of Bhospherous, that winding strip of sea that separates Europe and Asia. They're everything they're made out to be, and they serve up a cup of decent coffee or apple tea which goes down well against the normally cold, scalpel-like wind that keeps you company.

Archaelogy Museum; (below) Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) Museum and Sultanahmet Square

Our ninety-minute cruise matched the hype! The shores offer a delightful mixture of the past and present, grand splendour and simple beauty. Modern hotels stand next to yali (shorefront wooden villas), marble palaces abut rustic stone fortresses, and elegant compounds neighbour small fishing villages.

We sailed past several local landmarks - Dolmabahce Palace that houses the world's largest chandelier (four tones), Galatasaray University which looks like a hotel, then the imperial pavilions of the Yildiz Palace. Ciragan Palace - refurbished in 1874 by Sultan Abdulaziz, and now restored as a grand hotel - came into view, its ornate marble facades reflecting the water for 300 metres along the Bosphorous. Overshadowing the city's traditional architecture is the Bosphorous Bridge, among the world's largest suspension bridges, linking Europe and Asia. The beautiful Beylerbeyi Palace lies just past the bridge on the Asian side, and behind it rises Camlica Hill, Istanbul's highest point. We rounded off our trip passing the fortresses of Rumeli Hisari and Ananolu Hisari, facing each other across the straits like sentries. Back on the European side, at Tarabya Bay, yachts seemed to dance at their moorings.

Shop Stop

A self-proclaimed poor shopper, I must confess to a rare enthusiasm when confronted with the riches so generously on offer in the city's markets. Istanbul shopping is like the city itself: highly contrasted, yet subtly fused. Its easy to lose one's head wading through Turkish crafts, world renowned carpets, hand-painted ceramics, copperware, brassware, meerschaum pipes, leather and suede goods, and gold jewellery.

The Kapali Carsi (covered bazaar) in the old city is a labyrinth of streets and passages that houses over 4000 shops and some good old-fashioned bargaining. Their names recall days when each trade had its own quarter: the goldsmiths' street; the carpet sellers' street; the street of the skullcap makers. With enticing aromas of cinnamon, caraway, saffron, mint and thyme, the Misir Carsisi (spice bazaar) next to Yeni Mosque at Eminonu, transports you back to fantasies of the Mythical East.

At the other end of the spectrum are the sophisticated shops of the Taksim-Nisantasi-Sisli districts that contrast with the chaos of the bazaars. On Istiklal Avenue, Cumhuriyet Avenue and Rumeli Avenue, you can browse in the most fashionable outlets strong on elegant fashions in Turkish textiles, exquisite jewellery and fashionable handbags. Other notable outlets are the Atakoy Galleria Mall, the Akmerkez Mall in Etiler, the Carousel Mall, Atlas Passage in Beyoglu and Capital Mall on the Asian side.

Istanbul can be heady or staid, depending on your outlook. But whatever your levels of pursuit, the city leaves its stamp on your memory. After all, two continents can be quite a handful…

Getting Around

Local transport options include metered taxis, buses, and trams. Allow USD 10 for a taxi ride across the city. Sightseeing: While one can do the sights on one's own, there are also several guided city tours that include most of the famous landmarks. A full day tour can cost from USD 15-25 and is a convenient way of discovering the local heritage. Tourist Information Offices are located at: Suleyman Seba Cad. No7, Bestiktas. Tel: (212) 258 77 60. Fax: (212) 258 77 23. Ataturk Airport, Yesilkoy. Tel: (212) 573 41 36. Fax: (212) 663 07 93. Karakoy Limani Yolcu SalonuIci, Karakoy. Tel: (212) 249 57 76. Useful Tourism Organisations: TURSAB (Association of Turkish Travel Agencies). Tel: (0212) 259 84 04. Fax: (0212) 259 06 56. MEPTUR tourism. Tel: +90 212 275 0250. Fax: +90 212 275 4009. Turkish cuisine is a fine blend of Asian and European ingredients. Meat dishes are served along with vegetables like eggplant, carrots, spinach etc. Fish is very popular. Beyti is a twenty year old, classy Turkish restaurant with separate sections given to different cuisine modes. Its opulent, ornate, plush, sports spotless linen, and is large with over 500 covers. Istanbul Dubb is ideal for Indian food. Kapvansaray serves international cuisine.