Hideaway Of The Gods

Achal Dhruva finds himself one step below heaven in the green environs of Pachmarhi

Lusty cries of “Har Har Mahadev,” “Jai Shiv Shambhu,” “Jai Bholenath,” piercing the still air kept me charged as I trudged up the 1,300 steps to the small mountain top shrine of Lord Shiva at Chauragarh. More than the stretches of steep incline on the four kilometre trek it was the panoramic vista of tall rugged mountains and thick forested valleys unfolding all around that took my breath away. What amazed me even more was the sheer number and fervour of devotees making a beeline for the temple.

The second highest point in Pachmarhi, a quaint hill station with an old world charm nestling in the central Satpura Range, Madhya Pradesh, Chauragarh attracts lakhs of devotees on Mahashivratri, a festival dedicated to Lord Shiva from Chindwara and surrounding districts in the plains. Even though it was two days after the festival there was a never-ending surge of humanity, which viewed from the top appeared like an army of ants.

And what an army, families with frisky kids, gnarled old men and women with smiling sweat laden faces, plodding on resolutely; long haired and loin-cloth-clad sadhus and groups of boisterous youngsters. Apart from faith, the common item which bonded this disparate congregation was the ‘trishul’ or the trident of Lord Shiva.

According to legend, a saint, Chaurah Baba did penance for several years on this peak to invoke Lord Shiva.
Pleased with his penance Lord Shiva appeared before him and gave Chaurah Baba his ‘trishul.’ For years devotees have been flocking to this mountain shrine, which has a statue of Chaurah Baba praying over a Shivling to get their wishes fulfilled. Once the wish is fulfilled they come back and offer a ‘trishul’ at the temple as thanksgiving.

Over three lakh ‘trishuls’ of various sizes clutter the peak with the biggest offering till date being a 20 feet trishul weighing 351 kg. My guide Mohammad Arif divulged another nugget of information. The ‘trishul’ as per the custom and belief of the locals cannot come into contact with the earth till it’s placed at the shrine. So all through the journey, devotees take turns to hoist the ‘trishul’ round the clock and it took a team of 20 over 25 days to lug the biggest ‘trishul’ to the temple. Many villagers also bring a ‘trishul’ to the temple for the blessings of the Lord before they install it in a temple back home.

An electric religious fervour pervades the place and it is not uncommon to see men and women going into a trance gyrating their heads and thrashing their bodies wildly. Pachmarhi, with the profusion of cave temples of Lord Shiva, like Mahadeo, Gupt Mahadeo, Jatashankar, seems to be the most favoured hideaway of this God after the Himalayas.

Mahadeo, a huge cave, located 10 kms from the market square, houses a naturally formed rock Shiv Ling with a pool of water formed by drops trickling down from the ceiling. Even at the height of summer the water is ice cold. A little distance away on the route to Chauragarh is Gupt Mahadeo. A huge statue of Lord Hanuman guards the narrow entrance. A full grown person can just about squeeze in this narrow dark cave and only 10 people are allowed at a time. There is a small Shiv Ling at the end of the cave.

‘Religiously back to nature’ can be the signature line of Pachmarhi, a saucer shaped plateau located at an altitude of 3,500 feet. There is also a significant imprint of history here. First discovered by Captain James Forsyth, in 1862, the profusion of rock shelters in the mountains and ravines with paintings of animals and hunting scenes on the walls, some of them dating back to 10,000 BC, offer evidence of hunters and gatherers of the stone age.

The Pandava caves, a collection of five caves on a small hillock from which Pachmarhi is said to derive its name, is the place where Pandavas reportedly spent time during their years of exile. Inscriptions found in the caves are said to to be of Buddhist origins carved before the Gupta period (4th to 5th Century AD).

The hill station was developed as a cantonment and summer retreat for the central provinces by the Britishers. Forsyth, sent on a mission to capture the adivasi king Bhabhut Singh who used to hang Britishers, built a bungalow, ‘Bison Lodge’ at Pachmarhi and used it as a forest lodge to explore the surroundings. His efforts were the origins of the forest department in India.

The Bori forest, the first reserve forest in India was surveyed from this lodge which is now converted into a museum housing artifacts like stuffed bison, tiger, snakes and elephant skull and pictures of some of the highest peaks in Madhya Pradesh including Chauragarh and Dhupgarh. Dhupgarh at 4,429 feet is the highest point in Madhya Pradesh and is famous for its panoramic view and spectacular sunsets.

Satpura National Park, located in the Mahadeo Hills, has an abundance of flora and fauna which includes gaur or Indian bison, sambar, chowsingha, sloth bear, smooth Indian otter, Indian giant squirrel, flying squirrel, wild dog, marsh crocodile, tiger and leopard. There are two zones in the Park, the Neemgham zone and the Churna zone which requires a permit from the director of the park. While the mountains come alive with an endless number of silver streaks cutting through the thick carpet of green during monsoon, the star attractions are the Bee Falls, Rajat Prapat and the Duchess Falls.

One of the main attractions of Neemgham zone, the Bee Falls is a picturesque all year round cascade, a 45-minute walk from the road. However to touch base and splash in the pool it’s another 45 minutes descent over a winding path. Apsara Vihar or the fairy pool is yet another favourite picnic spot and a short walk from Jai Stambh. Set amidst thick forests, the pool is shallow and perfect for wallowing. A 20 minute trek over rocks and boulders from Apsara Vihar get you to the spectacular Rajat Prapat, a huge waterfall with a free fall of over 500 feet. In monsoon, the sound of a roaring cataract can be heard quite a distance away.

Those with a penchant for adventure will find the strenuous trek of four kilometres to Duchess Falls worth the effort. Crossing the stream at the base of the falls and following a small path for about two and half kilometres brings you to Saunders Pool, an excellent spot for a refreshing dip. Trips to the falls are a treat as the paths are through thickly wooded tracts. Pachmarhi thankfully still retains a dense forest cover, comprising mostly of sal, teak and bamboo trees.

Also, strict control ensuring against rampant commercialisation has made this a verdant jewel of Madhya Pradesh, an endearing hill station for all seasons. Spread over 32 kilometres, the army and forest department controls a large chunk of area and the civil area is restricted to just five kilometres. Bison Lodge, Christ Church, Catholic Church, the golf course and the heritage bungalows converted into hotels by Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation give this town a colonial air.

Built in 1875 by the British, Christ Church is the most beautiful church in Madhya Pradesh. The nave of the church does not contain even a single pillar for support. The peace and silence of the church captures the essence of Pachmarhi, a far-from-the-madding-crowd kind of getaway.