ISSUE OF MARCH 2004  
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Milan renaissance city

Sheetal Wadhwa Munshaw finds her way through a city which is as much a culture hotspot as a financial centre, a shopping haven and a fashion capital

If one were to describe the character of Milan in a phrase it would be ‘renaissance par excellence’. The city has welcomed and been home to a series of revivals and beginnings, making it a true mélange of the primeval and the contemporary. To get into a little bit of its history, Milan endured centuries of chaos caused by waves of barbarian invasions before being governed by a succession of important families: the Torrianis, the Viscontis and the Sforzas, all of which is apparent in the fortresses which are tourist attractions today. Like the rest of Italy, history remains an intrinsic part of Milanese lifestyle reflected in its architecture, culture, cuisine, art forms and every slice of life.

And while history and culture manifests in Milan’s numerous churches, monuments, palazzos, palaces and neoclassical buildings, the city is also Italy’s powerhouse of finance and fortune point. People from the outskirts of Milan drive into this engine room of the country’s stock market and home to its most important business centres. Milan is also the world’s design capital and rivals only Paris as a leading fashion centre. It has attracted talent from the world over including our own designer Tarun Tahiliani who was recently conferred the honour of showcasing his prêt collection just before the prestigious Milan Fashion Week, late last year. The city understands and welcomes new art and forms of lifestyle which was evident in its endeavour to host ‘Namaste India’, an Indian week in Milan that showcased Indian handicrafts, artisans, fashion, cuisine, films and other art forms.

Like most big cities Milan offers an eclectic mix of experiences; all of which are highlighted by its inherent sophistication and touch of class. It identifies with our every passion, be it raving romance, revelry of art or plain indulgence.

Though it is a sprawling metropolis, most of Milan’s attractions are concentrated in the city centre, between the duomo (cathedral) and the Castello Sforzesco. The duomo is the best place to begin exploring the city and is within strolling distance of dozens of historic sites. The city’s efficient underground railway, the Metropolitana Milanesa (MM) has a stop here. Apart from the city centre, another interesting area is the Brera, immediately north of the duomo, with its plush galleries and fashionable shopping streets. Also check out Navigli to the south. Shopping, whether of the window variety or - for those who can afford it - the real thing, is of an almost religious significance. Fashion in Milan is followed with more fervour than religion. The hip and stylish Milanese look like mannequins on the ramp as they make their way to work, to the movies or simply to grab a cup of coffee. Naturally, living in a city that only rivals Paris, and is home to the creative genius of Armani, Gucci, Versace and other stalwarts in the world of fashion, the denizens of Milan are dressed to kill, no matter what the occasion. For those of you who can’t afford to shop in the fashion capital of Monte Napoleone that is home to the biggest fashion labels - including Valentino, Versace, Venini, Armani -try the more affordable labels of Mango and Zara.

While you could spend a lifetime gaping at the en vogue apparels, you could also shop for exquisite jewellery - Milan is home to some of the finest brands in designer jewellery in the world and designers from the world over visit to draw inspiration from the sparkling Italian designs. Don’t go back without a pair of original Italian shoes and then of course there are designer bags, leather goods, houseware, furniture, music, art and paintings. Foodies must spend some time choosing from Milan’s choice selection of world class Italian wines. In the land of pasta, take your pick from the plain pennes and spaghettis to the more exciting spirals on offer. Choose from the freshest original Italian herbs, pestos and not to mention world renowned melt-in-the-mouth cheeses.

Needless to say, like most European cities Milan is expensive but it is a shopper’s haven for those who can afford it.

But shopping is far from being Milan’s only attraction. For culture vultures and music lovers, the city’s Renaissance character comes to life in the world renowned Teatro alla Scala - one of the world’s greatest operas houses which has just been restored. If you’re an opera buff, it’s an absolute shame if you miss this. For those of you with a penchant for symphonic and chamber music, there’s the Conservatorio - the city’s most prestigious music school founded in 1807.

Art of course is an integral part of Italian lifestyle and Milan is no exception. The city boasts numerous theatres staging plays ranging from classical to avant garde, operetta, contemporary dance and variety shows.

But for those of you looking to just experience one of Milan’s many watering holes, trendy bars, sophisticated lounges or simply enjoying some live music and rubbing shoulders with chic inhabitants, Milan’s just the place for you to be. The city can pretty much satiate any appetite since it is every gourmet’s paradise. Milan dishes up a wide range from traditional classical recipes to more contemporary fusion cuisine. It’s a great place to sample delectable Italian regional cuisines. It’s also a great place to try out some original pizzas and sample some of the finest world cuisine stirred up by immigrants who call Milan their home.

A treat for any tourist, Milan’s also forging ahead as a world class convention city due to its essential business-like layout and demeanor and of course its convention venues of international standards, sterling examples of which are the swanky Fiera Milano and for smaller intimate gatherings there is the much raved about Four Seasons Hotel Milan among a host of other spiffy hotels located in the heart of the city.

Eating Out
Italian food needs no introduction since it is the most popular international cuisine among urban Indians.

Delectable cuisine is a Milanese tradition and while the osteria (wine pub) and trattoria (family-run restaurant) culture may be disappearing, celeb chefs are still tossing up their own version of Milanese classics.

Traditional Italian Cuisine

Asso di Fiori Osteria dei Formaggi
Alzaia Naviglio Grande 54
tel: 0289409415

Il Verdi
Piazza Mirabello 5
tel: 026590797

La Dolce Vita
Via Bergamini 11
tel: 0258303843

Milanese and Lombard
Cuisine
Osteria del Binari

Via Tortona 1
tel: 0289406753

Trattoria Milanese
Via Santa Marta 11
tel: 0286451991

Pizzerias
Di Gennaro
Via Santa Radegonda 14
tel: 028053454

La Pizzaccia
Via don Bosco 11
tel: 025692094

You could also find Indian, Chinese, Taiwanese, vegetarian, Latin American, Greek, Spanish, Russian, Japanese and various other cuisines in Milan.


Nightlife
Like most big cities, this city doesn't sleep. Brera and Navigli - Milan's most charming districts and liveliest nightspots are teeming with fashionable Milanese until the wee hours of the morning.

While there's a whole lot to see and do in Milan by night, we've picked a few options:

Opera

Teatro all Scala Piazza della Scala tel: 0272003744

Conservatorio
Via Conservatorio 12
tel: 027621101

Theatre
Piccolo Teatro
Via Rovello 2
tel: 02723331

Teatro Carcano
Corso di Porta Romana 65
tel: 0255181377

Teatro Lirico
Via Larg 14
tel: 02809665

The club scene is buzzing with classical and international influences.
AlcatrazVia Valtellina, 21 Milano 20159 tel: +39 0269016352

Alcatraz is a recently-opened venue divided by partitions into three areas with different music. It stages live music concerts, events and parties

American Disaster
Via Boscovich, 48 Milano 20124
tel: +39 0229531728

American Disaster is a disco popular among young people.


Sight-Seeing
A city that dates back to the 7th century, Milan is inherently rich in culture, history and art and has a lot to offer to its bemused onlookers. Its gothic treasures include some of the finest works of art in the form of churches and some impeccable architectural treasures.

Attractions of Milan include:

Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie
tel: 02-498-7588

Santa Maria delle Grazie is a Gothic church built in the mid-15th century. The building's main attraction is undoubtedly Leonardo da Vinci's The Last Supper. Only 25 viewers are admitted at a time and you're required to pass through rooms to remove pollutants from your body before and after you view the painting.

Piazza Castello, Milan, Italy

Castello Sforzesco began construction in 1450 by Francesco Sforza, fourth duke of Milan 1401-66. The castle today houses municipal museums displaying Egyptian antiquities, musical instruments, paintings, and sculpture. The highlight is Michelangelo's unfinished last work Rondanini Pietà. Piazza del Duomo, Milan, Italy; tel: 02/8646-3456.

Duomo

Duomo is Italy's largest Gothic structure, the building was begun by Galeazzo Visconti III (1351-1402), first duke of Milan, in 1386. The building is decorated with over a 130 marble spires and 2,000 marble statues. Visitors can climb to the top of the dome for a fantastic view of the city.

Piazza San Ambrogio
v02-8645-0895

Basilica di San Ambrogio contains 12th century mosaics and the adjacent Lombard tower at the side dates from 1128. There is also a museum inside containing, 15th-century wood paneling, paintings, sculpture, and Flemish tapestries

Castello Sforzesco

At the northeastern end of the lovely Via Dante, which intersects the Piazza del Duomo, looms the imposing Castello Sforzesco. The castle houses a collection of modern museums that are well-stocked with impressive antiquities.

 

Getting There

Alitalia, the Italian national carrier has direct flights from India. The flying time is about eight hours. The carrier has moved away from its erstwhile reputation of being ‘Always Late In Take-offs; Always Late In Arrivals’ and has become a very proficient carrier on par with other European airlines. The crew are friendly and very service oriented greeting you with a smile and warm Italian hospitality. Your acquaintance with Italian culture begins right there on the aircraft be it through the looks and demeanour of the crew, the incredible variety of wines or the taste of true Italian coffee.

Shopping

Luxury stores abound beneath the glass dome of Galleria Vittoria Vittorio Emanuele II. Piazza San Babila is another hot spot for shopping with a large number of fashionable stores housed within its network of old Milan cobbled streets. Not so far way is corso Venezia that is home to a variety of stores and chic boutiques. Then there's corso Matteotti leading off piazza San Babila, lined with fashionable shopping arcades. Next is the exclusive Monte Napoleone which is the heart of Milan's fashion district. Housing the biggest fashion labels including Valentino, Gianni Versace, Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo, Venini and Gucci. Sant'Andrea, via della Spiga and via Borgospesso alongwith via Monte Napoleone form the golden square of Milan's fashion circuit.


Getting Around

Milan's public transportation system is efficient. There are four underground lines, with a fifth being considered, as well as buses and trams. Tickets are available at Metropolitana Milanesa (MM) stations and some newspaper stands. You can sometimes get a free public transport map from ATM offices at the Duomo metro station and Stazione Central. Trams, buses and tolleybusesare run by the Milan Transport Authority (ATM). They run from between 4 am and 6 am until between midnight and one am. You could also buy travel passes which entitles you to unlimited travel around the city for 24 or 48 hours depending on your requirement. A weekly travel card is also available and is valid from Monday to Sunday on all public transport systems. Driving around Milan could get tricky as the city like most big cities around the world has a lot of traffic and parking is rarely free if available. Taxis are expensive in Milan and there is an extra charge for baggage and night travel.

Accommodation

Five-star

Four Seasons
Via Gesu 8, tel: 0277088
website: www.fourseasons.com

Grand Hotel et de Milan
Via Manzoni 29, tel: 02723141
email:hotel.Milan@galaktica.it
website: www.madeintaly.com/sdm/milan

Four-star

Radisson SAS Bonaparte Hotel Milano
Via Cusani 13, tel: 028560

De la Ville
Via Hoepli 6, tel: 02867651
Email: de.la.ville@italyhotel.com

Three-star

Spadari al Duomo
Via Spadari 11, tel: 027200237

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