Culture Curry

Lakshman V finds Mangalore to be a city of contrasts and superlatives

The first thing that I noticed about Mangalore was its cleanliness. It was cleaner than any city I had seen in recent times. The streets are neat, shop-fronts have no traces of garbage and there is a pleasant green cover throughout. And this despite industrialisation steadily creeping in. The city has given birth to four nationalised banks apart from general insurance companies. Business to this port city, wedged between the western ghats on the east and serene blue waters of the Arabian Sea on the north, has come in the form of the Mangalore Chemicals and Fertilizers Limited, Kudremukh Iron Ore Company Limited, Mangalore Refinery and Petrochemicals Limited, National Thermal Power Corporation Limited and a host of other projects proposed for the district, such as the power plants of Jaiprakash Industries and NTPC, downstream units of MRPL, etc. In addition, 10 kms north of the town, is India’s ninth largest cargo handling port. The city, in short, is booming into the 21st century economy.

But this is not apparent if you climb the mountains outside the city and then make your way to the top to get a bird’s eye view. Though I failed to reach the top, a small clearing in between, provided a breathtaking spectacle. Abutting an unending coastline adorned with swaying coconut trees, there are deep forests on one side and the two rivers - Netravati and Gurupur - on the other. With quaint little houses with terracotta tiled roofs, temples, churches and coconut palms, Mangalore is picture perfect. Later, while descending, it was almost twilight hour and, after being surprised by a herd of five or six wild pigs who whizzed past me, I rushed down at top speed.

I was there because the humdrum of my existence in Bangalore had called for a break and Mangalore, 347 kilometres away, had been recommended by a friend. I took up residence at his place, a typical estate located on the outskirts. On asking him what Mangalore is famous for, pat came the reply, "Contrasts and superlatives. Temples, churches, beaches, old world charm and serene wilderness amidst a bustling commercial centre."

The next morning, my friend proposed a visit to the city. He had lined up a range of activities from sightseeing, fishing, trekking, bird watching to nature walks; all revolving in and around the city. The mix of contrasts was apparent all over. If the innumerable Christian churches, bungalows and chapels revealed the Portuguese and British influence of this once vital colonial trading centre; the Hindu imprint is everywhere in religious monuments like the 10th century Mangala Devi temple from which Mangalore derives its name.

The forces which have shaped the city have been across a broad spectrum starting in contemporary history with a Hindu Vijayanagar empire from the 14th to 16th century, followed by a Christian Portuguese era and later still an Islamic empire of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan from whom the city was wrested by the secular British power. The words of my friend - ‘contrasts and superlatives’ - were very apt. And so, in Mangalore you find people attired in white panche (dhoti), white shirt with a red bandana tied around their head, striding besides bankers in their crisp white shirts.

And it is a friendly city. Though Kannada is widely spoken and the native language is Tulu, language is not a problem for the tourist. Hindi and English are widely understood and used.

The heartbeat of the city is in the commercial hubs of Hampankatta Circle and MG Road. Shopping malls, superbazaars, coffee houses, pizza parlours, antique stores, upscale shops, roadside eateries and jewellery shops are a common sight. Shopping is moderate. There are malls offering a wide range of exquisite goods at reasonable prices, but hardly any bargains. Some local arts and crafts exist mostly around the city’s coastline shops and come at down-to-earth prices.

A vast majority of small businesses, government offices, hotels, museums and fine-dining restaurants are located near the old port area. Though a cultural renaissance has occurred in the downtown area over the last few years and Mangalore is a busy place, the ‘city still sleeps’. This means it is not a place where you can party until the wee hours of the morning. By 12 a.m., Mangalore is quiet as quiet can be.

A you-are-crazy-if-you-miss-this option are the city’s beaches. Scores of tourists, mainly from Bangalore and outside, frequent the clean sandy stretches, especially during weekends. This trend is on an upswing with Karnataka Tourism promoting beach tourism on a large scale. Some of the well-known beaches include Tanneru Bavi, Panambur, Summer Sands, Maravanthe, Someshwar, Surathkal, Malpe and St Mary’s Island.

Once you tire of the beaches, you can propitiate the gods of all hues at temples like Mangaladevi, Kadri, Sharavu, Kudroli Gokarnatha, Kateel Durgaparameshwari, Dharmasthala or artistic marvels like the St Aloysius Church whose walls are adorned with exquisite murals, and where large canvas paintings with life-size images can be seen on the ceilings.

The western and central part of the city has numerous architectural reminders of the port city’s colonial past.

The second day of my foray was even better than the first. The two biggest attractions in Mangalore, Kambala - a buffalo race of the local farming community and Yakshagana - a highly popular dance drama were on. The timing of my visit was very fortunate, as it was that time of the year (harvest season) when these two avocations of the local community were at its zenith. Run in a wet muddy paddy field, ‘Kamabala’ is an annual feature through which farmers pay tribute to the Gods for protecting their crops. This was patronised by the Hindu rulers and the local chieftains. A first time visitor to the ‘Kamabala’ race is in for some nail-biting moments.

A brawny man is seen crouching behind a pair of black buffaloes with a whip held high waiting for the race to start. Suddenly there is pin drop silence and not a murmur escapes the thousands of onlookers on either side of the field. Abruptly, the man leans forward with a wild cry waving his whip. The animals, specially trained for the event, churn the muddy waters with their hooves sending a wet spray in the hot air around, their eyes wide and wild. Man and beast have one aim - to break the boundaries of the animal’s prowess. It is estimated that around 45 Kambala races are held every year under the supervision of various temples and local patronage, mostly between November and March.

Our visit to a Yakshagana night was equally mesmerising. A colourful celestial world unfolds before the audience depicting Ramayana, Mahabharata and other stories of yore. The event is held at night and mostly in the open on moonlit nights. As if from the night itself, the dancers appear in their elaborate coiffures made of leaves, tender shoots of betel nuts and tender coconut leaves. The headgears are high and conical, and the make-up specific to each ‘bhoota’ or demon. This folk art is patronised by the local people and the temple authorities in these parts.

These two experiences were the high points of my trip. To conclude, I found Mangalore to be a destination which is both relaxing and exciting. You might find that a paradox, but then, it is a city of ‘contrasts and superlatives’...remember.

Fact File

Accommodation

Finding suitable accommodation is not a problem; there are quite a few enviable options. Hotel Taj Manjarun, which sits just above the old port, is the most sought-after premiere hotel in the city and offers a truly ethnic ambience. Hotel Moti Mahal is one of the oldest and offers a range of delectable ethnic delicacies. The other good names include Mangalore International & Hotel Nalapad Residency.

Eating Out

Thanks to the growing cult of Mangaloreans venturing out to eat, a host of restaurants serving ethnic cuisines can be visited.

Climate

It is hot and dry in summers and temperate and rainy in winters.

Industries

Fishing is a major occupation among the populace and naturally fish canning and processing units thrive here. Medium scale industries - cashew, chocolate, tiles, coconuts, plywood, beedis, boats, motor springs, engineering workshops, to name a few - are large in number. Cottage industries like handicrafts, gold, silver are famous. The software business is just finding its moorings here and Infosys has started an office at Kottara, four kms from Mangalore employing about 750 people. There are also some small and medium scale industries concentrating on both hardware and software.

Culture

Tourists will find a wealth of cultural opportunities to indulge in. It has got ancient and stately temples, mosques, Jain basadis, chapels etc. There are ‘Boothama Sthanas’ and ‘Naga Sthanas’ devoted to spirits and snakes. Wrestling is a popular sport, followed by cattle racing (Kamabala) and cock fighting.

The ‘Kadri Majunatheswara Temple’ is the oldest (Shaivite) and the most popular temple in Mangalore. At St Aloysius Church, built in the year 1885, masterpiece works by Br Anthony Moschemi, from 1902 to 1904, can be seen in a section of the Gallery.