Spanish Sojourn

‘Viva Espana,’ gushes Bageshree Vaze after a whirlwind trip of the country

I have always thought that if I could choose any culture in the world (other than Indian, of course), I would want to be Spanish. Call it a romantic inclination, based on popular features associated with Spain – flowing flamenco skirts, Spanish wine, its sexy language and muscular and agile bullfighters (a few things which come to mind) – which prompted me to choose the country as a European vacation retreat over standard destinations like Britain, France or Italy.

A bustling country of 40 million, Spain is a kaleidoscope of some of the world’s finest museums, lively nightclubs, picturesque mountains and pristine beaches and I wanted to explore and experience it all. However, it is impossible to partake all of Spain’s points of interest in a 10-day span, the duration of my late autumn excursion and I had to set my sights on spending two days each in the capitol city of Madrid, Barcelona, Seville and the Balearic islands of Mallorca and Ibiza. For those who have more time on hand, other cities in Spain worth checking out are Valencia, Cordoba and Granada.

Apart from planning my whirlwind itinerary the other task on hand was learning a smattering of Spanish. My guidebook suggested a cursory knowledge of Spanish was almost necessary in the country, as English is not as widely spoken as one might expect, and locals prefer and encourage tourists to speak their language. For weeks before my trip, I listened religiously to Spanish language cassettes, in an attempt to learn at least basic words which might come in handy: ‘Donde esta…’ (where is…?), ‘Como esta?’ (how are you?), ‘Cuánto cuesta?’ (how much is it?), and ‘Vino?’ (wine?) were some phrases that I’d mastered.

I arrived at the Hotel Mayorazgo, conveniently located near the Plaza Espan-a, a central area of downtown Madrid, just walking distance from the Palacio Real, the 18th century palace, which has some of the most elaborately-decorated walls and ceilings imaginable. A true monument to Spain’s acquisition of wealth over the centuries, the palace has remarkable chandeliers in every room, a fine selection of Goya paintings, and ornate tapestries.

Just steps away from the palace is the animated Plaza de Oriente, where you can stroll down cobblestone streets and pop into one of the many cafes for paella, the famous Spanish rice dish. If you’re a true art lover, you will love Madrid as its museums are among Europe’s finest. The most famous one is the Prado, which houses collections of three of the Spanish greats, Goya, Velázquez and El Greco, and you can spend several hours glancing at their masterpieces.

The homeland of explorer Christopher Columbus, Spain has had a long history of conquests and invasions. Spaniards are descended from the many races of people who have settled in the nation over the past ten centuries: Iberians, Celts, Romans, Jews, Visigoths, Berbers and Arabs. Under Muslim (Moorish) rule in the 8th Century, the arts and agriculture prospered, and many of the buildings, palaces and cathedrals which still exist in southern Spain (also known as Andalusia, the Muslim stronghold) have the influence of minarets and mosque-like architecture.

Once I’d taken in some of Spanish culture, I was ready to experience it. For many Spaniards, the day begins after nine p.m., the time that many restaurants and bars open to the public and most bars and discos don’t get hopping until one a.m. I headed for the epicentre of Madrid’s nightlife, the Santa Ana-Calle de las Huertas area. “Life in Spain is about going out. People go out till the wee hours on any night and there are as many places as you can wish for to go out,” says Rafael Kotcherha, an American I met at one of the popular tourist hangouts. Leather wine bags line the walls of many joints, and local Cerveza (beer) is akin to Kingfisher.

While Spain is a relatively inexpensive country to travel in as cost of food, drinks, hotels and tourist attractions are more travel-friendly than in France or Switzerland, if you truly want to enjoy yourself checking out historic sites and happening nightlife, the wallet has to be well stocked. Two days go by quickly (especially if you’re awake until five a.m.!) and my next stop was the city of Seville in southern Spain, where an annual flamenco feria (fair) was taking place. Spain is known for its festive atmosphere, made popular by its feisty flamenco music and dance, and remnants of its gypsy culture (there is even a belief that Spanish gypsies are descendants of Rajasthani gypsies who migrated to Europe).

On the train ride to Seville, I was struck by the diverse landscape of the country. Spain has several mountain chains, beaches, rivers and desert areas. As my train left the Cordillera Central mountainous region and entered the area with the highest mountain range, the Sierra Nevada, I couldn’t help but wonder about the communities and cultures which existed in each area, the peoples whose lives were beyond the scope of my brief wayfarer experience.

As I arrived in Seville, I was immediately struck by the juxtaposition of its influences, beginning with its architecture: Spanish villas stand alongside Muslim-influenced buildings and my hotel in the central Plaza de Santa Cruz was a combination of modern and ancient styles. The main historic site in this city is the Cathedral & Giralda, one of the largest cathedrals in the world, which was built on the site of Seville’s main mosque between 1401 and 1507.

While the Cathedral has mainly a Gothic style, complete with the most magnificent stained-glass windows you can fathom, the Giralda tower was the mosque’s minaret, and dates from the 12th century. The Cathedral houses what is believed to be Christopher Columbus’ tomb and shops outside offer a fine selection of souvenirs. You can take a walking tour along the riverbank nearby, where the 13th-century Torre del Oro has a small museum and see the famous bullring, the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza, which has its origins since 1758.

Since it was off-season (bullfight season runs from April to early October) and if like me, you are not a big fan of watching men play with animals, you can skip the arena tour and instead take a leisurely walk in the Parque de María Luisa, which has a maze of paths, tall trees, flowers, fountains and lawns. There are river cruises and other museums to check out in Seville, but as I was anxious to witness some authentic flamenco, I headed uptown for some evening shows of flamenco at the World Trade Fair, which is held annually in the city.

Guitarists, pianists, singers, and dancers of this vibrant gypsy style from across the country throng Seville to showcase their talents, and the tapping of heels and swirling of skirts is almost hypnotic. Flamenco is practically a way of life for Spaniards, just like cricket is for Indians and there are numerous bars in the city which feature all-night shows. You can enjoy tapas (the style of cooking meat and vegetables), sip Cerveza or vino and clap along with this engaging, participatory style of music and dance.

After a couple of days in Seville, it was time to head to Barcelona, the city of 1.5 million people. A part of Catalunya, the home of the Catalan culture and language, Barcelona shot to international fame in 1992 when it hosted the Olympic Games. Most travellers find themselves in the old part of the city (Ciutat Vella), through which La Rambla, Barcelona’s best-known boulevard runs. Again, there are numerous cathedrals to visit, such as the magnificent one in the Gothic Quarter, where on Sundays crowds gather to dance the Catalan national dance, the Sardana.

East of the cathedral you can find the Museu d’Hist (History Museum), which has an exhibit of excavated portions of Roman and Visigoth Barcelona. Just west of the cathedral there is the Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol, a hang-out for bohemian musicians and buskers, which has several cafes where you can drink coffee and people-watch. You can stroll down the waterfront and visit L’Aquàrium, one of Europe’s best aquariums, or take a walk along the beachfront, where you’ll see the Vila Olimpica, the site of the Olympic village.

It was now time to take a flight to the Balearic islands of Mallorca and Ibiza, where some serious sunbathing and partying were in order. The islands of Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera share a common language - Catalan - and beyond the immaculate beaches and happening bars, there are Gothic cathedrals, Stone Age ruins, fishing villages, olive groves and orange orchards. Mallorca is the largest of the islands, and while its pearls may be famous, you are not likely to find them on the beach and they are too expensive to buy in giftshops.

The main city of Palma has numerous places for the sightseer, but I found myself on the Cala Figuera beach, one of the few beaches which has not been ravaged by zealous tourists. If you are a true hedonist, Ibiza is the place to go, where the phrase ‘life is a party’ is the religion of choice. Shopping is the major pastime and the port area of Sa Penya is packed with funky clothing boutiques and market stalls.

At midnight you can travel on the ‘discobus’ service, which runs until 6 a.m. and transports you to all the hopping discos, bars, and hotels in Ibiza city. However, the real action is on Ibiza’s unspoiled beaches, such as the Cala de Boix, the only black-sand beach. And that’s where the details end, because if you’re at all familiar with the three ‘S’s of relaxation - sun, sea and sand - you’ll know that such an experience is not only private, but also spiritual, and beyond the scope of words.

I will say that at the end of my 10-day Spanish retreat, my romantic preconceptions about Spain were not shattered, but I realised my rudimentary knowledge of Spanish could only get me so far and as locals rattled off to me, I couldn’t check my language guidebook fast enough to figure out what they were saying. Nevertheless, if I ever come into an astronomically large sum of money, I would seriously consider buying property in Spain (also a handsome Spanish tutor). Being in Spain makes you forget the world you have come from, and the exuberance and warmth of its culture and people make you want to lose yourself in both, the tranquillity of its beaches and the ebullience of its night culture.

Fact File

Climate: Average temperature in July is approximately 30 degree Celsius and in January it can dip to freezing while in southern parts it hovers around 15 degree Celsius.

Currency: Euro

Languages: Spanish but there are also three widely-spoken regional languages-Catalan, Galician and Basque.

Getting there: There are no direct flights from Mumbai to any Spanish city. Best bet is to take Air France to Paris and travel either by that airline to one of the Spanish cities, or by Lufthansa via Frankfurt, or by British Airways via London. One can also take a bus or train from any European city.

Getting around Spain: Three main domestic airlines-Iberia, Air Europa and Spanair connect various cities. Buses run to and from all major centres and to remote areas and are cheaper than trains. RENFE, the national rail company runs numerous routes and there are some high-speed services like AVE service. For the Ballearic islands, the options are a flight or a ferry service.