ISSUE OF DECEMBER 2003  
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Bangkok Thai Pavilion

Reema Sisodia gets a glimpse of one of Asia’s most vibrant cities which maintains a fine balance between the contemporary and the traditional

In four hours and 10 minutes, you are transported from one rich cultural and diverse land to another – from India’s most vibrant metro ‘Bombay’ (now Mumbai) right into the heart of South East Asia’s gateway city ‘Bangkok’.

Your cultural journey into Thailand begins on board the Thai Airways aircraft as your cabin crew will welcome you with folded hands, except that their version of ‘Namaste’ is ‘Sawasdee’. In fact the national carrier offers you a sampling of every slice of Bangkok’s rich cultural pie – from the traditional welcome, to the cuisine on board, to the interiors and décor of the aircraft which is an ensemble of Thai architecture adorning the walls; every aspect is very Thai in style and presentation. For instance, every lady passenger on board is greeted with Madam Pompadour orchids - the symbol of the country and its airline.

The Thai menu on board comprised ‘Tom Yam Kung’ (hot and sour soup with prawns), ‘Kaeng Massaman Kai’ (Massaman curry with chicken) and desserts like ‘Khanom Ba-Bin’ (coconut cake). Thai food lovers are sure to enjoy delectable Thai cuisine on board and you don’t even need to worry about calories. Said my co-passenger Venna, “Being slim for the Thai people is quite effortless. If you walk through the streets of Bangkok and you happen to see an overweight person, in all probability he or she would be of Chinese origin and not Thai. We love to eat but we eat small portions the whole day. Our food and flavours are a rich blend of special herbs, spices of medicinal value. Soups, salads, curries, sea food and rice form part of a typical Thai menu which you would get to savour in every street of Bangkok from the fine dining restaurants to the local roadside joints but all prepared in a way that is light and healthy. Thais believe that spiritual contentment begins at the stomach."

Although if you’d much rather stick with Indian cuisine, Thai Airways has recently brought on board an Indian chef to cater to their Indian passengers. Their catering service in fact offers a range of over 1,500 menus, including those covering special dietary and religious requirements.

In fact if you’re a gourmet then Bangkok will never let you down. From the food parks, local streets, open-air garden restaurants, river side restaurants, this ‘Venice of the East’ (canals and rivers are part of Bangkok’s make-up) has something to suit every palate. A must do is the dinner cruises along the river Chao Phyaya. If you have had enough of the Thai flavours and are longing for something from back home, you’re sure to find it in Bangkok’s pot pourri of international cuisine, no matter where you’re from. If my friend Devangi and her Palanpuri (Gujarati Jain) husband can find food to suit their restricted palate, anyone can! In fact they even have a Jain Temple (Derasar) very close to their home!

I had just 20 minutes to go before I could touch down on ‘Krungthep’ or what we know as Bangkok. With suggestions from the airline crew on what to see and where to go, coupled with the recommendations given through a short documentary shown on board Thai Airways, I was totally prepared to step down on Don Muang International Airport (Bangkok).

Bangkok is Thailand’s spiritual, cultural, political, commercial, educational and diplomatic centre. It exceeds 1,500 square kilometres in area and is home to one-tenth of the country’s population. Bangkok, also called the `city of angels’, is generally referred to as the gateway to experience the life of Southeast Asia. Bangkok International Airport is located 25 kilometres north of the city of Bangkok. It serves the city and the areas around it and acts as a hub for Thailand and other parts of South East Asia. The airport is busy, due to its constant flow of business travellers, vacationers and backpackers. Bangkok International Airport has two international terminals and a domestic terminal. The airport is improving facilities at Bangkok in order to handle increasing amounts of traffic. There are plans to open a second international airport in Bangkok in 2004.

The airport, a stark contrast to the one I left behind in India, reflects the Thai theme of orchids and colours all over. With the help of Thai’s special unit officers, I completed all the regular arrival formalities, got my visa on arrival, lifted my extremely light baggage (so that I can buy the world in Bangkok since shopping is one of Bangkok’s USPs) and headed straight toward the arrival section.

If you have time on hand please treat yourself to authentic Thai foot massage treatment within the airport premises. I am sure it would set you on the right footing to take on Bangkok.

The visual appeal from the airport to the hotel seemed different since the last time I set foot in the city around two years ago. Bangkok has been regarded as a city on the fast track with construction and development taking place at amazing speed. High rise commercial structures, state-of-the-art towers and mega infrastructure projects, hotel chains, entertainment complexes, form part of the ever changing skyline. Getting into the city in the early hours of the day has its own advantage as you can escape the ‘infamous’ Bangkok traffic. The expressway has done its bit to ease out the jams but with the super sonic development of the city as an emerging business centre and convention destination the pressure is always rising. As you move further into the city centre, authentic Thai architecture and structures engulf you. Strikingly contrasting styles of architecture are a speciality of this city. Another prominent feature is the peaceful canals and river paths add to the city’s beauty. Dodging through modern high rises and the typical Thai pointed Pagoda structures, passing by the famous city palace, I reached my abode for the next four days. A traditional Thai welcome, along with the symbolic purple orchid marked our reception at The Royal Orchid Sheraton, Bangkok. The splendid view of the Chao Phyaya river from my hotel room was a treat in itself.

If it’s your first time in the city, a half day or a full day city tour is a must that takes you to the most famous landmarks of the city. The temples, the Buddhist architecture, make for a great orientation into the Thai royal culture. If you’re a shopaholic then Bangkok is your Mecca. At the top of anyone’s shopping list should be Thai silk and gems and jewellery. If you are hard pressed for time and can’t scout around the famous shopping areas, just make your pick from the selection of the in-flight shopping list on board Thai Airways.

For those of you shopping in the city, remember a warm and friendly smile is your trump card in the city. If you are a people’s person, you cannot miss the warm smiles and calm disposition of the locals. A Tuk Tuk driver Jack informed me, “We come from the land of Buddha and we believe in experiencing Sanuk (happiness)."

So if you want to win your client over, keep in mind that nation, religion and royal family are deeply revered by Thais and respect to the elders is ingrained in their culture. A little cultural insight can take you a long way in clinching that much sought after business deal.

If you happen to be hosted by your Thai associates in one of their homes, try and finish the food on your plate. This will please the host communicating the message that the food was delicious. Avoid filling up your plate at one time and if rice is your preference then Thailand is your destination. In fact if you’re a foodie Bangkok’s your destination. Check out the various street joints selling a variety of fresh fruits, noodle and herb broth and of course fried insects, dried squids and other locals delicacies prepared right in front of you. And live cooking is not all that you can get in Bangkok, the city boasts live entertainment, night markets and the choicest nightlife.

Basically, when in Bangkok you name it, you got it. It is indeed a city that never sleeps.

Getting Around

Public buses are inexpensive, with a 3.5 Baht minimum and 20 Baht maximum fare for all places within metropolitan Bangkok. Tourists can even hire taxis, tuk tuks and motorcycle taxis. Public taxis are air-conditioned, comfortable and have starting fares of 35 Baht for the first three kms and approximately five Baht for every additional km. Tuk Tuks (three wheeled taxis) are popular for short journeys and can cost between 20 Baht to 150 Baht depending on the distance. For tuk tuks and motorcycle taxis, fares must be bargained before the journey. The skytrain also plies in Bangkok. The Bangkok Mass Transit System Public Company Limited (BTS) is an elevated electric train that runs on two lines - Silom and Sukhumvit line, with an interchange station at Siam Square. The BTS is an excellent way to stay above Bangkok's traffic congestion. Fares run from 10 Baht to 40 Baht depending on the travel distance.


Getting There

There are regular flights by Indian Airlines, Cathay Pacific Airways, Malaysia Airlines, Srilankan Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Air India, Thai Airways International and Biman Bangladesh Airlines. It takes around four hours and 10 minutes from Mumbai to Bangkok. Besides there are also flights from Bangalore, Chennai, Delhi, Gaya, Guwahati, Jaipur, Kolkata and Trivandrum.


Fact File

Currency - The Thai unit of currency is the Baht.

Climate - Bangkok enjoys a tropical weather all year round.

Language - Besides Thai, English is widely understood and spoken in most tourist areas. Road signs throughout the country are in both Thai and English.

Attractions in and around Bangkok - These include The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo, The National Museum, Sanam Luang, Wat Pho, Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn), Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha), Wat Ratchanatdaram, Rama IX Bridge, Weekend Market at Chatuchak Park, Jim Thompson's Thai House, King Rama IX Royal Park, Dusit Zoo, Siam Water Park, Safari World, Dream World, Floating Markets and Ayutthaya.


Accommodation
Shangri-La Hotel
89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road, Bangrak
tel: (66 2) 236-7777

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel
2 Captain Bush Lane, New Road, Siphya
tel: (66 2) 266-0123]

Hilton Bangkok Hotel
2 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan
tel: (66 2) 253-0123

Intercontinental Bangkok
971,973 Ploenchit Road
tel: (66 2) 656-0444

JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok
4 Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 2
tel: (66 2) 656-7700

(For more hotel information you can log on to www.ethaihotel.com)

Eating Out

Finding good Thai, and Chinese dishes, is quite easy. Many Thais like to eat out in “food streets” and this is something that visitors will find very interesting. It is a great experience and the food is tasty and inexpensive.

Yaowarat: Bangkok's “Chinatown” street offers the best Chinese food in the city, both in expensive restaurants and on the cheapest food stalls.

Phahurat: If Yaowarat is Chinatown, then Phahurat is “little India!” A short walk takes you from one food world to the other. The Phahurat area accommodates a number of authentic Indian restaurants, particularly northern Indian cuisine. There are also interesting alternatives serving Punjabi and Pakistani food.

Sukhumvit: This road has just about everything to offer in the way of food. Starting from Soi 4, (Nana), an enclave of Pakistani and Middle Eastern restaurants fills the sois (small lanes) with the aroma of spice.

Siam Square: The shopping area is crammed with medium to high-priced restaurants as well as international fast food. Economically priced American, European, Italian, Mexican and Chinese food can be found here.

Recommended Restaurants:

Lemon Grass
5/1 Soi Sukhumvit Road, Bangkok
tel: 662 2588637

Hai-Tien-Lo
The Pan Pacific Hotel Bangkok
952 Rama IV Road, Bangkok 10500
tel: 662 6329000

The Regent Grill
155 Rajadamri Road, Bangkok 10330
tel: 662 2516127

Sweet Basil
23 Soi 62, Bangkok
tel: 662 1765490

Spice Market
The Regent Bangkok
155 Rajdamri Road, Bangkok
tel: 662 2516127

Le Bouchon
37/17 Patpang 2, Bangkok
tel: 662 2349109

Nightlife

Nightlife in Bangkok is world renowned and hardly needs an introduction! Among the most popular night spots are:

Patpong: Probably the most popular night-life spot in the city. Located between Thanon Silom and Thanon Surawong, the Patpong area is full of go-go bars, and beer bars. There are also exciting Thai boxing (Muai Thai) bouts in the three short streets comprising Patpong. In Sukhumvit area, there are two other popular night-life spots: Nana Entertainment Plaza (or N.E.P.) in Sukhumvit Soi 4, and Soi Cowboy which is located between Sukhumvit Soi 21 and 23.

Pubs and Jazz Clubs: If you like to sip a drink while listening to music, there are plenty of places for such activities, such as Renoir at Sukhumvit Soi 33 or Brown Sugar and Round Midnight in Soi Sarasin, Soi Lang Suan area. For dancing, you can visit Royal City Avenue which is known as RCA among the teenagers who frequent the area. This is where you find Thai yuppies listening to non-stop CD music.

If you are a little old for RCA you can try Premier on Rama IX. More jazz can be found at Saxophone at The Victory Monument; Bobby's Arms in Patpong; Witch's Tavern in Sukhumvit 55 and Blue Moon at Gaysorn Plaza. Other places for good music are the many first class hotels in Bangkok.

Discotheques: For party animals there is Peppermint Bistro in Patpong I, and Rome Club at Patpong III and some discotheques around Ratchadaphisek Road such as Capital City.

Shopping

A wealth of gift and souvenir opportunities can be found everywhere, from open-air markets to sophisticated malls, such as the World Trade Centre, Peninsular and Gayson Plazas, or Emporium and many large department stores. Chatuchak Weekend Market, spread over a huge area on Saturday and Sunday, offer every imaginable product, while Patpong Road Night Market is packed with souvenir stalls. Pratunam Market, or Naraiphand are good for clothing, while River City Complex is one of the best centres for antiques. Chinatown, New Road, Silom and Suriwongse roads are among the best areas for jewellery, Thai silk, antiques and handicrafts shops. Phantip Plaza, on Petchburi Road, is packed with bargains in computers, and electronic goods. Other top buys include tailor-made clothing and leather goods. Foreign nationals can obtain VAT refunds on their major purchases on departure from Bangkok International Airport. All shops have details.


Fly Thai
Thai Airways International’s special ‘Royal Orchid Plus’ frequent flier programme has completed 10 years in service in 2003. Members of the Royal Orchid Plus can gain miles and rewards not only from Thai but also from Star Alliance and partner airlines. In addition to miles earned from air tickets, which earn rewards including free flights on international and domestic routes, qualifying members can also enjoy a range of concessions, privileges and rewards including access to airport lounges, additional baggage allowances, priority reservations, check-in and boarding. Bonus miles offers to selected Thai destinations, discounted upgrades on all international routes and the ‘Buy One Get One Free’ offer for Royal First and Royal Executive class passengers can also be availed. Details of these and other attractive benefits are featured on the Royal Orchid Plus web pages. Visit www.thaiairways.com/rop for more information.

Royal Orchid Holidays (ROH)

Passengers of Thai Airways can also avail of Royal Orchid Holidays. Kick started in 1969 by Thai Airways, the number of itineraries on offer has expanded from just 12 to over 800 tours, stopovers, minibreaks, extensions and options. The programme is popular with business travellers who can make convenient hotel reservations, with valuable cost savings, through ROH stopover/stayover plans. ROH also offers exclusive golfing programmes. The ROH `Asia-Pacific’ programme has been expanded further to give it a more global coverage, with packages offered in Europe, the Middle East and South Africa.

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