Get In Gear

Nisha Jhangiani gives you a style check on the hippest trends in fashion this season

Diwali, wedding and December qualify as our fashion seasons. With one rolling on to another, the months from November to January create a plethora of demand for varied apparel, ranging from traditional, to bridal, to western. December is probably the most hectic social month of the Indian calendar, where one constantly has to juggle between marriage functions, pub-hopping with out of town guests down for their yearly holiday, and the whole Christmas/New Year’s Eve hoopla.

Often, it’s a struggle to juggle work and play. Then the added confusion of making sure one has the right outfit for each nightly event. While it’s fairly easy to keep track with the Indian gear, westerns tend to stump most people thanks to the speed with which trends in this segment seem to change. The good news for 2003 is that almost everything is in vogue! Sixties styles, tea dresses, Indian inspirations, Rock chic, multi-colours, monochromes, etc. etc. The fashion weeks of Milan, Paris, London and New York have showcased a recycling of many past fashions, ingeniously touched up, making it easier for every fashion aficionado to delve into her own wardrobe for re-inspiration.

Remember the mini skirts and dresses of the flower power generation? They are back again, this time, complemented with tights and stockings. Tights are this year’s style statement, and one can choose from colours, patterns, sheer and fishnet. Fashion house Chloe favoured strappy stilettos this fall/ winter, but knee length boots, a la Gucci, are equally trendy.

The ruched and ruffled look is pretty popular too, judging by showings at Stella McCartney and Valentino, who also presented a range of ethereal, goddess-like gowns, with one shoulder detailing, on filmy, floaty fabrics. Tweed and plaid are flying high at the moment, Prada being the perpetrator of this fad in the west. Tarun Tahiliani’s showing at Milan Fashion Week helped re-enforce the magic of India, his jewelled tees (try Ritu Kumar for variation) are a must-have. Louis Vuitton opted for anything glittery, shimmery, sexy, while Helmut Lang and Alexander McQueen added sparkles of gold to their creations. Jean Paul Gaultier and Givenchy did not give up on the wonders of corsets, but our very own Manish Arora could give them a run for their money, with his form fitting rib-huggers, in bright shades of pink, yellow, orange etc., often stamped with human figurines and embellished with sequins. But, the winner’s trophy this 2003 goes to prints. Abstract, floral, striped and what not, they have been in the forefront of every reputed showing, proving their stronghold on fashion circles.

For those who plan to travel abroad this month, it will be easy to achieve any of the trendy looks mentioned above. But designers and stores in India have more than geared up to the challenge, offering a wide range of fashionable alternatives to their discerning customers.

Spanish brand Mango is abuzz with enough trends to make one dizzy. Their Oriental collection has sold out already, but the collection of trousers (the new drain pipe bottoms as well as the combat, military style softened by the use of satin), teemed with tees and tops in hues like red, turquoise, strawberry, green, and the usual array of black, white, beige and grey, are enough to satisfy any shopper.

Mango emphasises the tweed look, with their funky asymmetric skirts, and handbags, printed in a delicious red tartan. Managers Feroza Dalal and Snehal Doshi point out that “business suits” have been hugely popular with buyers. “Besides the standard shades, we have these suits in red and lavender too, and can match the outfits to accessories that include shoes, bags and scarves. It works very well for any executive who needs to dash from a business meeting to a social do.” Add a funky accessory and this daytime ensemble is transformed into a formal evening outfit.

“Also selling well are blousons, which look very dressy and formal. These tops are very sheer and perfect for the evening. Dresses are another bestseller; we have a range that includes formal and casual. Our Oriental tube dresses have been hugely in demand.”

If the variety on display causes confusion, ask for the store’s suggestions. “We would definitely recommend some denim, as our fits are renowned. A great selection of bags this time too, especially travelling totes, which come with their matching kits and pouches.” Also go for their delicate mesh purses in black, pink or gold, perfect to lift any evening wear. “The knee-length boots are a must-have, but if they don’t suit, we have great substitutes in pumps, which are available in our favourite colour for this season-pink!”

“We often suggest skirts, they are trendy this year and can look very dressy. We advise clients to teem the skirts with the business jackets for a formal occasion.” To be on the safe side, go for Mango’s most popular international look, “Skirt, sleeveless knit polo, and boots.” Add a beret or muffler for a complete winter winner!

Parisian label Morgan has some equally exciting options up for grabs. “Morgan strictly follows European trends, so we have a lot of black, fuchsia, darker shades of green and blue this time of the year,” says Simran Thukral, marketing manager, Morgan de Toi. Morgan is the place to go to for stockings if you want to keep abreast with this season’s most happening fad. Again, there is much to choose from in the trouser section. “We are doing slitted variations, some with Swarovski highlights. All our pants feature some sort of detailing. Narrow bottoms are in right now too.”

Knee length skirts make an appearance at the store. Try the ‘layered length’ skirts to give an illusion of the more popular mini, without compromising on your comfort level. Accessorise with belts, ‘metal, leather and crystal, available in many colours’ to lift a classic black ensemble. Combine with Morgan’s “PVC” range, which is doing phenomenally well. The brand is appreciated worldwide for its cutting edge club wear, and this December, choose from `our much in demand halters, bustiers and singlets’. “Bulaspo, a halter style of ours, is quite popular, especially in lavender and fuchsia, the colour to be seen in right now,” adds Thukral. Looks like one can’t go wrong with anything pink!

What would Morgan recommend for perfect eveningwear? “The leather-look pants. Maybe a black outfit topped with a fuchsia stole. Or, any of our evening dresses.” Narendra Kumar Ahmed has concentrated on knitwear and lots of dresses, asymmetrical hemlines and draped fabrics to allow for some skin show. “The market is still ruled by black, but I have introduced some red, olive and brown, especially in my military range. We have suits without lapels for a sportier feel and Lycra has been incorporated into most of the collection, for versatility. There is an appealing Indian feel to many garments, we can’t do only what the west is doing.”

Payal Singhal also propagates the use of Indian elements on her “Kaftan-like tunics, tubes, halters, and backless tie-ups. I have taken pure zari borders from old Nawabi saris, embellished them with sequins, and then re-attached them to many of the tops. Even the colours are primarily Indian, like red, orange, mustard and turquoise. Darker shades of pastels too. Lots of tie-dye, paneling, pin-tucking and pleating. The collection is truly Indo-Western- a red and yellow, floral bustier can be worn with silk pants and a dupatta for a sangeet, and later, teemed with jeans and boots for clubbing.” Payal’s ‘Swarovski encrusted jeans’ have been mega-sellers, “All patterns are one of a kind, no orders no repeats. We do accept customers’ favourite jeans and agree to work on them according to the client’s budget,” says Singhal. The patchwork, acid-washed mini-skirts, with gota and zardozi are another great addition to a party wardrobe. ‘You’, the fashion store that stocks Aki Narula and Horn OK Please by Sabina Singh, has gone totally kitsch. Floral motifs, bright hues, Indian touches and an abundance of accessories hit the eye on walking in. Aki’s black halter, tinkling with a choker of silver ghungroos is a showstopper. The flimsy georgette jackets with gota embroidery look inviting in purples and rust, as do the beachy, sequined bags. Alternatively, go simple and chic by topping up a plain creation with some jangling charm bracelets from the store.The trick this season is to pull out some long forgotten favourites from the cupboard, and then throw in a newcomer from your shopping bag. Enjoy experimenting!