‘Home-Made’ Bengali Food

We took specific directions in search of Bhojohori Manna and yet managed to lose our way in Kolkata’s serpentine lanes till we found it, sitting obscurely on Ekdalia Road. A sigh of relief went all around…after all, lunch was at stake!

As our friend Derek O'Brien says, go there if you must but have high expectations about the quality of home-style Bengali food. It proved true. A small 16-seater, with nondescript décor, we went armed only with whetted appetites and the notion that a home style Bengali meal is a ritual in itself even if it is only boiled rice and lentils with, but of course, fish.

Bhojohori Manna is named after a popular Bengali song rendered by the legendary Manna Dey for a film made in the 1970s. The song ‘aami sri sri bhojohori manna’ revolves around a magical cook who travelled far and wide and acquired a unique culinary style of his own. The credit for opening the place goes to a group of five friends Goutam Ghose (a film director), Siddhartha Chaterjee (actor), Siddhartha Bose (Tata group executive-turned-restaurateur), Ranjit Duttagupta (a businessman with a passion for food) and Rajeev Neogi (a publisher).

We survey the place and focus on the white board with the hand written menu. Siddhartha Bose says the wide variety of Bengali food is based on items cooked with the best available raw materials on any given day. The focus is on ‘grandmothers’ principle’ of serving only fresh food. Born six months ago, it had a menu of 15 to 20 items and as the word spread and praises poured in, more items have been added to increase to nearly 60 and all at affordable prices.

Our feast began with ‘Ilish Barishali Bhapa’ and the ‘Narkel Chingri Bhapa’, which are flagship items. The ‘Ilish’ was steamed to flaky perfection. The ‘Chingri Malai Kari’ came alongside and the one jumbo prawn in the coconut cream pampered the palate. We could not resist trying out the ‘Doi Maach’ and I must say the quality of the fish was supreme. On recommendation we tried out the ‘Bhetki Aluphulkofi Kalia’, which is an interesting medley of fish, potatoes and cauliflower. Certainly an authentic recipe, which peters down from grandma’s kitchen! We dwelled on the thought of ordering one the interesting combos (Rs 45-65) like the pulao, ‘Mangshor Jhol’ and salad. But then our stomachs were reaching the point of fullness. For those who are rushed for time, (well who isn’t!), the ‘maxi non veg/ veg’ comprising of rice, dal, aloo bhaja, two pieces of fish or mutton or chicken and chutney seems to be a good choice. Somewhat like the thaalis, which are served in most restaurants.

The final note of triumph in a menu of everyday fresh food came from the list of sweet dishes. All seemed worth a try, because it is not everyday that one gets to enjoy genuine Bengali home-style food. We settled for ‘Patishapta’, which turned out to be pancakes with a filling of coconut, kheer and nuts. But then how can anyone end any Bengali meal without ‘Mishti Doi’ and ‘Sandesh’. Completely satiated, we had to put a stop by ending the meal with a ‘Paan’.

We virtually ordered everything on the menu and overate. And yet the bill for four was only Rs 353. I must add the sweet dishes came with the compliments of the partner in the restaurant, the ever smiling Syd Bose. Take a bow, guys! Good job.