ISSUE OF OCTOBER 2003  
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Oriental wok magic

Rashmi Uday Singh’s Good Food Guide

This is it. The finest Oriental restaurant of Mumbai. You name it and Pan Asian at the ITC Grand Maratha Sheraton Hotel & Towers, Mumbai has got it - vibrant decor, three interactive kitchens (seating around each) serving Korean, Japanese, Mongolian, Chinese, Burmese, Thai, Indonesian and Vietnamese food. Here, chef Gev Desai and his team of foreign chefs wield their wok magic to create an unusual and memorable experience. I book a table for four under a false name (I do the same when I go back another day), pay my bills (Rs 7,240 and Rs 5,700) talk to foreign guests and Indian diners here, my distilled opinion follows:

My Plus Points

  • I love the buzz and the excitement created with the large red pillars, paper lamps, bamboo shoots et al.
  • Full marks go to the drama on your table, of many a do-it-yourself meal... built in Korean barbecue (cooking different meats and veggies along with tangy dips and sauces) the soupy hot-pot (you cook your own meats) and the Mongolian brazier offering a choice of meats, veggies and sauces which the chef cooks up.
  • Special dishes for vegetarians and Jains. Imported Duck oven (superlative roasted meats made in it), ‘Yakitori Remmai’ grills, Dimsum oven, Mongolian brazier and Korean barbecues yield magic under the expert chefs.
  • Definitely try the Korean barbecue (Rs 510-beef), Mongolian brazier (Rs 600-veg) and the spicy Hot Pot. Crispy chicken Cantonese style (Rs 495) Chicken teriyaki (Rs 495), garlic yakitori (Rs 120) chicken and leek starters (Rs 180) are worth checking out. Pick the Chinese options from the woks and stir frys.

My Minus Points

  • The sheer distance from the city centre.
  • The service can be slow.
  • Bewildering choice of dishes and cuisines. Play safe, pick on the Korean barbecue.
  • The Thai dishes (especially the red curry) are not the greatest.
  • The desserts (though brilliantly presented) can be too stodgy (sticky date cake/ chocolate desserts).
  • Oriental food buffs please note - no bowls (if you eat with chopsticks) no sake or Korean shoju, sushi and sashimi either. (A pity!).
  • Obtrusive music.
  • Open only for dinner.

My Point

A must visit restaurant, even though it is too long a drive away from the city centre. A great place to be adventurous, to wait patiently and to pay five-star prices. Though the sprawling menu confuses, the interactive open kitchens and buzzing decor charms. My compliments to the chefs!

FOODLINE
K Joseph Antony, thanks a million for your helpful suggestions and the answer to your query is “Akasaka”. That’s the name of the superb Japanese restaurant in Chennai. Look forward to hearing from you and incorporating your suggestions on classifying information. David Phillips, Mona Sethi, Karthika, thanks a million for your appreciative emails. Do keep in touch and do keep me networked to the city. Do keep calling and emailing and do keep smiling.

Foodline: (022)22161313, email: rashmiudaysingh@hotmail.com, or write to PO Box 19946, Colaba Post Office, Mumbai-5.

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