Wine for the Road!

Magandeep Singh tours around the most popular wine regions of france

France is an excellent place to visit. Where else can the start and end of each day be marked by a `belle’ bottle of wine? And then they have food which is absolutely insipid for the uninitiated and simply stunning for the addicted! Having said that I must back my claim up with something more than just food for thought.

For starters, I had the opportunity to reside in that lovely country and move around quite a bit. And I regaled making the best of the local produces as I did my nomadic survey of the country. That is what possibly pronounces upon me such authority to comment with such exactitude. Of course there are several guides and professional reviews available everywhere but hey whom are you going to believe - someone who employed a team of experts to aid in taking the regional cuisine apart and trace its very origin or a sommelier with an irrepressible penchant for the good life!?!

For our first stop we head East to the city of Dijon - the mustard Mecca of the world. At the distance of an affordable detour is Reims, the city to partake of the taste of the stars - Champagne! Andouillettes (Pork sausage) of Troyes and white pudding are not always easy to appreciate at first go and one may hastily conclude that the area doesn’t have any particular cuisine as such. Champagne induced prolonged intoxication should probably be blamed!

Not too distant is the region of Alsace - probably more fought over than Kashmir ever will be. The cuisine and wines today have come to reflect this very diversified flavour and style. They do a lot of cabbage and even a grown up cant but help feel sorry for the local kids who have to eat so much of this stuff while growing up! Sauerkraut done here is par excellence, as is the bacon quiche and pork-based charcuterie. Alsace wines, mostly whites are primarily made from Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Noir and Sylvaner. The SGN (selected over-ripe grains) or VT (late harvest) wines are extremely sweet with a lasting finish on the palate. Alsace and the adjoining region of Franche Comte have an amazing cheese platter on offer as well - Munster, Bleu de Bresse and Tomme de Savoie among others come to mind.

Retracing our path a bit, Dijon is also the northern tip of the region of Burgundy, a famed wine-producing region. The city of Bresse is fabled for its poultry and the region does it justice in many ways - au four, aux herbes, a la Rohan - in fact if you can think it up they are probably doing it here. Charcoal grilled chicken breasts with a red wine reduction with onion compote are perfect with a Burgundy Pinot Noir red or vice versa if you prefer!

Lyon is the definitive food capital of France and some of the best chefs are to be found in or around this city. From Bouchon Lyonnaise to quenelles to pheasants and eels in local wine-based sauces - the sheer spirit of innovation with an edge for the daring make this the gastronomic shrine of the world.

Moving further towards the east we reach the Alps where the locals do a lot of potato gratins, raclettes (cheese fondue) and other fondues. They may not make much wine here but pretty much use the produce of Jura, Savoie and of course Burgundy. We halt briefly in the Rhone valley before we pass on over to the west of the country. The region is rather modest despite its portfolio brimming over with world-class wines and the never-endingly spoken about truffles - the fungal flavour that is costlier than gold! This round beauty is not planted but grows of its own accord and pigs are trained to sniff them out. What they impart to a dish is simply divine. Come to think of it, they are much like a good girlfriend! Anyways, moving on swiftly …Chateauneuf-du-Pape is well known to most travellers, so why not be a little more autochthon and try other appellations - Hermitage, Condrieu whites, Vacqueyras or Gigondas for reds, or, if you can get your hands on one, a Chateau-Grillet (the world’s second smallest white wine appellation). The local cheeses comprising Roquefort, among others can go classically with the locally produced Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise although any other Muscat based liqueur wine as well as a Sauterne style Botrytised wine could be substituted.

Next stop on our tour, the vineyards of Bordeaux as many assert, are among the most gifted vineyards of the world. Not too far the city of Condom is known for excellent Foie Gras (in pate or fried form) which makes for a divine pairing with a heavy, syrupy Sauterne. The red wines of Bordeaux or clarets to many are absolutely delightful with juicy cuts of beef or lamb. These regions also pride themselves on their Cassoulet, a casserole based on beans and sausages in a tomato base. The Garbure from the Basque country is a powerful, and pungent to some, cabbage and bean stew. These are classic examples of dishes with strong flavours and how the local wines made from the Cabernet family, the Cot and the Tannat grapes meet these dishes midways in a pairing exercise.

Last stop before we reach our point of depart is the Loire valley - the veritable garden of France. An abundance of fresh poultry, farm vegetables and the trophies of the hunting season provide much variety and charm. Rich and varied charcuterie, including terrines, potted minced pork from the region around Tours, Poulet en barbouille, Carpe in red wine and Chevre or goat cheese are what the region does superbly well. The local wines, including some very known sparkling wines, are a harmonious match for them. The regions to the north and northwest of Paris are essentially agricultural land and although they are home to Camembert, the king of cheese, and crepes as well, the nearest of vineyards would be those of Sevre et Main on the Seine as it flows through Nantes.

Whew, so much for food for thought…now all I have running through my head are thoughts of food! While I lament the lack or rather easy availability of such foods in India, I do take pride in the fact that our own indigenous cuisine can provide for so many interesting wine pairings. We could and should try doing these. Desi dal pitted against classic wines. But then, that’s another day, another potato! Till then, from the land of Carme, Lacam, Parmentier, Escoffier and Brillat-Savarin to name few, Au revoir…