The ascent of corporate style and the vitality of showbiz is now being prominently draped by Indian fashion creativity. Smita Iyengar highlights the global appeal of Indian couture.

With India’s global presence in many spheres gaining significant recognition, one of the most remarkable being in the fashion arena where the incomparably unique age-old treasures of weaves and embroidered fabrics combining ingenious innovation and refreshing visualisation have trailblazed into the international scene with striking prominence. Earlier, it was chic for corporates, biz barons and entertainment folk from India to don factory-finished western wear sometimes even out of style in their countries! But the winds are a-changing! The world is looking east these days, folks.

‘Dress Code: National Dress/Lounge Suit’ specifies the consular invite. One would easily notice the crisply embroidered ‘Band-gala’ and silk churidar, a svelte sequined chiffon narrow tube trouser and kurti ensemble at distinguished gatherings and evenings, heads turning in murmured appreciation. Did one notice that splendid raw silk slack complemented with an outstanding Gujarati mirror work tank top?

Sameer Nair, COO-Star India Ltd is upbeat about donning Indian cottons. "I love to wear Indian cottons. They are cool and comfy, and the vibrant colours appeal to me - they sure make a fashion statement. Even in the sixties and seventies, the famed Madras Checks were a rage in Europe and The Beatles in their flaming saffron kurtas with religious motifs created quite a furore!"

Nair is a regular at Purvi, in Versova-Mumbai the one-stop destination for authentic Indian handwoven cotton and silk weaves and embroidery fabrics. So are Hema Malini, Kiron Kher, Dipti Naval, Shabana Azmi, Dimple Kapadia, designers like Manish Malhotra, Anna Singh and Neeta Lulla, Sanjay Leela Bhansali who find the vast range of regional creations irresistible. The demand for the most traditional weaves and embroidered drapes is at an all time high. Completely unheard styles of hand-embroidery, like the ‘Kasauti’ embroidery from Belgaum, Karnataka, Chettinad weaves from Karaikudi, elaborate beadwork of Kathiawaad, Banni embroidery from Kutch - both from Gujarat - rare and select, are Shekhar’s own effort to showcase the real Indian wonders to discerning buyers.

Actress and danseuse Hema Malini and her daughters Isha and Ahana swear by Indian weaves. "On our dance-ballet trips abroad we prefer Kanjiwarams and Venkatgiris. They sure make heads turn. My daughters like fusing Indo-western styles, like for instance, short, bright cotton weave kurtas with jeans."

Turn on the television, and your eyes sure caught them right on Fashion TV’s glitzy cameras, Ritu Beri, Rohit Bal, Rina Dhaka are sure showstoppers with their daring collections, which have ample doses of original Indian artistry combined with contemporary western panache. The highlight of such an impressively strong Indian presence in the world of couture is being honoured with The Milan Fashion Week showcasing Indian couture from September 27 to October 5, 2003 in Milan, Italy. An enthusiastic secretary-general, Dr Andrea Bonardi says, "The appeal and awareness of Indian fashion is growing in Europe. Even designers like Giorgio Armani are inspired by Indian styles and designs. At this ‘IndianWeek’ in Milan, we are showcasing Tarun Tahiliani’s creations because we want an Indian designer to present Indian couture not a European designer interpreting Indian designing! We have also handpicked Indian models for this grand show. Tarun was selected since his work is very innovative and his cuts are western but the fabrics and embroidery are authentically Indian."

Indian couture sure has corporates getting bolder and more assertive. The days of black ties and three-piece suits are passe. Individual identity now makes its mark. It’s refreshing to see the change - O&M top boss Piyush Pandey sported a tie-and-dye shirt at The Cannes Film Festival this year. Sejal Shah, documentary filmmaker who bagged the Locarno Film Festival Award for her film ‘Joginis’(Devdasis) wears bright Indian attire during official engagements. "At the Geneva Film Festival’s grand opening, instead of wearing the typically boring black or grey evening gown, I went in for a flaming orange ‘Bandhni’ salwar-kameez which sure did draw in the commendations. For the day time debate sessions, I wore Khadi kurtis(from Sewa) with jeans," said Shah.

The range of wearable Indian designs stretches across a whole exciting canvas. Sandeep Khosla of the Abu-Jani-Sandeep Khosla duo asserts emphatically, "India is the most fashionable country on earth. We have an abundance of creativity. Look at our weaves, embroideries, our fabrics, our colours and varieties, we have made it our mission to revive the very traditional Chikankari and Zardosi embroidery skills. We cater to individuals who have a sense of style and confidence to carry the look we create for them. Our speciality is adapting Indian cuts for the western market. This calls for impeccable finishing and detailed workmanship at every level." Their range of international couture covers sherwaanis, ‘bandh-gala’ coats, tunic tops and trousers, embroidered shirts with Chinese collars, special wedding outfits and attached ‘Kali’ coats for women. For western weddings their unique white-n-white resham embroidery is a strikng feature. The Abu-Sandeep line is patronised by the likes of Dame Judy Dench who wore their outfits for three Oscars, Princess Luciana Pignatelli, The Saudi Royalty, Princess Michelle of Kent, Lindy Hemming and The Bachchans among other prominent clientele. Says Sandeep, "Ours is a classic brand. Our creations are family heirlooms. Not seasonal, that come and go unnoticed, they are eternal expressions of joy and labour."

So the next time you’re off to some part of the world to attend a world-class convention or a glitz-blitz evening, sport a stunning Indian design and get the world to notice you.