Paris - One Step From Heaven

Tanaaz Sethna discovers paradisiac Paris

The mighty monuments of the proud metropolis tell of the splendour of its bygone days. Churches crowned by cupolas, magnificent churches, majestic gardens, twisting alleys and elegant boulevards bring the history of Paris back to life. The Parisians are a self-confident lot. Each and everyone a unique individual. Tramp or porter, fashion model or business manager, they all play their part in this grandiose setting. You’re invited too - if only in a guest appearance!

Paris has a population of 2.2 million in the city; 9.4 million in the Île de France area (the suburban area around Paris). Paris has long inspired opinionated outbursts, from delusional to denouncing, but on one matter travellers remain in agreement: it’s among the most stimulating cities in the world. Paris assaults all the senses, demanding to be seen, heard, touched, tasted and smelt. There is nothing more pleasing to the French than someone from foreign parts enjoying their country as much as they do. Traditionally the epitome of style, Paris creates a centre full of activity and a trend that often escalates and survives for a long time. The city of Paris leaves its visitor with vivid impressions, be it the drifting cherry blossoms in the tranquil gardens of Notre-Dame, the riverside quais on a summer evening, the sound of blues in atmospheric cellar bars, or the ancient alleyways and cobbled lanes of the historic Latin Quarter and village Montmartre. Indeed, the whole city is something of a work of art.

Both the capital of the nation and of the historic ile de France region, Paris is located in northern central France. Central Paris - known as Intra-Muros, or within the walls - is a nice, oval shape, divided neatly in two by the Seine, with 20 arrondissements (districts) spiralling clockwise from the centre in a logical fashion. The area north of the river, the Rive Droite (Right Bank), includes the tree-lined Avenue des Champs-Elysées running west to the Arc de Triomphe. East of the avenue is the massive Musée du Louvre, the Centre Georges Pompidou and a lively district of museums, shops, markets and restaurants. Immediately south of the Pompidou Centre on the île de la Cité is the world-famous Notre Dame. The area south of the river, the Rive Gauche (Left Bank), is home to the city’s most prominent landmark, the Eiffel Tower. To the east, in the Saint Germain de Près and Montparnasse districts, Paris’ s famous academic, artistic and intellectual milieus waft in and out of focus through a haze of Gitanes smoke.

Two thousand years of shaping and reshaping have resulted in monumental buildings, sweeping avenues, grand esplanades and celebrated bridges. Many of its older buildings have survived intact, having been spared the ravages of flood and fire and saved from Hitler’s intended destruction. Moreover, the city survives with a sense of continuity and homogeneity, as new sits comfortably against a backdrop of old - the glass Pyramid against the grand fortress of the Louvre, the Column of Liberty against the Opera Bastille.

Time has acted as judge, as buildings once surrounded in controversy - the Eiffel Tower, the Sacré-Coeur, the Pompidou Centre - have in their turn become well-known symbols of the city. Yet for all the tremendous pomp and magnificence of its monuments, the city operates on a very human scale, with exquisite, secretive little nooks tucked away off the Grands Boulevards. The backdrop of the streets is predominantly Neoclassical, the result of nineteenth-century development designed to reflect the power of the French state. The tradition of state cultural endowment is very much alive in the city and collections are exceedingly well displayed and cared for. Many are also housed in beautiful locations, such as old mansions and palaces. The city entertains best at night, with a deserved reputation for outstanding film and music. Paris’s cinematic prowess is marked by annual film festivals, with a refreshing emphasis on art, independent and international films. Music is equally revered, with offerings of excellent jazz, top-quality classical, avant-garde experimental and international rock. With its vibrant street atmosphere, buskers and lively pavement cafes, Paris holds an immediate appeal for many children. The most popular tourist attractions such as the Eiffel Tower and boat trips on the Seine are also sure to delight the young. Don’t necessarily rule out museums - some, such as the Musee des Arts et Métiers, Pompidou Centre and Parc de la Villette, have interactive displays and hands-on activities, designed to appeal to all ages. When your children get fed up of trawling the streets you can recharge batteries in one of the city’s many parks and gardens. And if you really want to give the kiddies a treat, Disneyland Paris is just outside the city, and there’s also the home-grown theme park to the north, Parc Astérix. The French are extremely welcoming to children on the whole. Many restaurants and cafes offer a special menu enfant or are willing to cook simpler food on request. Hotels tack on only a small supplement to the regular room rate for an additional bed or cot.

To view the most charming parts of Paris, its public transport offers many options, the underground Métropolitain (and its sister system, the RER), are a simply massive network. No matter where you are, chances are there’s a metro station within a few blocks. Likewise, the public bus system covers everywhere, but its hours are laughable and don’t even try to hop aboard on Sunday or a holiday. The Noctambus network takes over in the heavily trafficked areas once both the underground and the day buses go to sleep.

In case you hadn’t guessed it, driving around Paris is a job best reserved for the terminally aggressive - if you don’t have lots of time to kill, you’re better off taking public transport. Likewise with bicycles: Parisians don’t much like to share the road, and bikes aren’t allowed on the metro. There are river shuttles along the Seine, but these cater more to gawking tourists than to commuters. Paris is surprisingly pedestrian friendly; it’s compact and there are few hills - watch out on pedestrian crossings, though, cars tend not to stop.

Getting There

Air France, British Airways, Delta, Emirates, Alitalia, Luftansa etc connect to France. Airport Information: Most visitors arrive at CDG (Charles de Gaulle) which is 14 miles north of Paris. Buses run frequently (every 12 minutes) and trains every 15 minutes from the airport to the city. The same schedule of trains and buses operates from Orly airport, which is eight miles south of Paris. A bus also runs every 20 minutes in both directions between the two airports. Metro, RER, Bus.

Fact File

Climate: The best time to visit Paris is largely a question of personal taste. Winter temperatures drop well below freezing, with sometimes biting winds. If you’re lucky, spring and autumn will be mild and sunny; in summer it can reach 30degC or 80F. Public Holidays: January 1, New Year’s Day; Easter Sunday; Easter Monday; May 1, May Day/Labour Day; July 14, Bastille Day; November 1, All Saints’ Day; November 11, 1918 Armistice Day; December 25, Christmas Day. Time : France is one hour ahead of Britain (Greenwich Mean Time)

Nightlife

Live music: Live jazz is played at many cafés and bars by local and international high-calibre musicians. Major rock concerts take place at the Palais des Congrès, place de la Porte-Maillot, 17th. Clubs: Techno, house, garage and latino are the popular sounds and, to a lesser extent, hip hop, trip hop and drum‘n’bass. Clubs open at about 23:00 and tend not to close until dawn. Shows: In the Parisian Cabaret hall of the Moulin Rouge, you will enjoy the typically Parisian revue-a wonderful cabaret show and of course there’s the famous Lido Show.

Accommodation

Le Bristol -A town palace with classic design and acclaimed cuisine. SR EUR 460-560, DR EUR 580-650, Suite from EUR 750; e-mail: resa@hotel-bristol.com; website: www.hotel-bristol.com George V, Four Seasons Hotel - SR/DR EUR 600-900, Suite 1300-8800, website: www.fourseasons.com/locations/paris Ritz - Master hotelier Cesar Ritz established this palatial grand hotel in 1898. SR/DR EUR 500-730, Suite 800-7700, e-mail: resa@ritzparis.com; website: www.ritzparis.com Royal Saint Germain Hotel- Situated in Saint Germain, in the quaint Latin Quarter of Paris. Room rate starts from EUR 113. Email: royal.st.germain@wanadoo.fr Gateway sites: www.hotelclub.net || www.heart-of-paris-hotels.com || www.parisbesthotels.com *SR - Single Room; DR - Double Room

Eating Out

The capital offers a tremendous variety of cuisines: regional French cooking, notably from the southwest, you can sample Senegalese, Caribbean, Thai, eastern European and North African cuisine, among others. There’s also a huge diversity of eating and drinking establishments: luxurious restaurants in the traditional style or elbow-to-elbow jobs; spacious brasseries and cafés where you can watch the world go by; or dark, cavernous beer cellars and tiny wine bars offering wines by the glass from every region of France. You can take coffee and cakes in a chintzy salon de thé, in a bookshop or gallery, or even in the confines of a mosque. Bars can be medieval vaults, minimalist or postmodern design units, London-style pubs or period pieces in styles ranging from the Swinging Sixties to the Naughty Nineties. You’ll find you’re spoiled for choice, even on a modest budget. There are numerous fixed-price menus (prix fixe) for under €12.20, particularly at lunchtime, providing staple dishes; for €22.87 you’ll have the choice of more interesting dishes; and for €30.49, you should be getting some gourmet satisfaction. The big boulevard cafes and brasseries are always more expensive than those a little further removed, a bite on the Champs-Elysees, place St-Germain-des-Près or Rue de Rivoli, for instance, will be double or triple the price of Belleville, Batignolles or the southern 14e. Many bars have happy hours, but prices can double after 10pm, and any clearly trendy, glitzy or stylish place is bound to be expensive.

Getting Around

At its widest point, Paris is only about 12km across, which, at a brisk pace, is not much more than a pleasant two hours’ walk. Finding your way around Paris is remarkably easy, as the city proper, stripped of its suburbs, is compact and relatively small, with an integrated public transport system - the RATP (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens). The system is cheap, fast and meticulously signposted, comprising buses, underground metro and suburban express trains, known as RER (Réseau Express Régional) trains. Driving in France: A valid driver’s license is required. Minimum age for driver is 18. Proof of insurance coverage is necessary. Taxis: Taxi stands are plentiful and easily visible. Rates vary depending on the city or suburb and whether it is day or night. Extra fees for baggage, animals, or a fourth person are routine. Tipping is customary but completely at your discretion: generally 10-15 per cent is acceptable. Buses: Bus maps and information are available from the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau. Metro tickets may be used. Balabus: The Balabus tourist bus, in service Sundays from mid-April to the end of September, stops at selected rectangular bus stops (marked Bb) near the main Paris tourist areas. Metro tickets may be used. Batobus: From April to October, the city of Paris operates a boat service on the Seine river called Batobus, with stops at the Eiffel Tower, Musée d’Orsay, St-Germain-des-Près etc.

Sight-Seeing

No matter what the purpose of visit to Paris, you must make it your business to visit at least some of the world-renowned tourist attractions. Here’s a quick-list of the a few of the Parisian attractions: Musée du Louvre - Undoubtedly the largest museum in the world, it dates back to the 12th century. Do go in, if only for just one glance at the serene smile of the Mona Lisa. 34-36 quai du Louvre tel: 01-40-20-53-17 Place de la Concorde - One of the most beautiful squares in the French capital. The construction started in 1755. In honour of Louis XV an equestrian statue was erected. Notre Dame - The city’s cathedral ranks as one of the greatest achievements of Gothic architecture. 6 place du parvis Notre-Dame, 4e, tel: 01-42-34-56-10 Arc de Triomphe - This arch at one end of the Champs-Elysées has come to be a world recognised symbol of French national pride. Place Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile, 16e Phone: 01-43-80-31-31 Basilique du Sacré-Coeur - The dome affords the best view of Paris, especially at night just as the lights are coming on. Place St-Pierre 18e Phone: 01-42-51-17-02 Musée d’Orsay - Inside is a trove of artistic treasures produced between 1848 and 1914, including highly regarded Impressionist and Post-impressionist works. Eiffel Tower - Popularly known as ‘Dame de Fer’ (Iron Lady). This towering edifice was built for the World Fair of 1889, held to commemorate the centenary of the French Revolution. Champs-de-Mars, 7e Phone: 01-44-11-23-23 Avenue des Champs-Elysées - A popular promenade for the ostentatious aristos of old, the Avenue des Champs-Elysées has long symbolised the style and joie de vivre of Paris.