Delhi Blueprint

Anindita Chattopadhyay unravels the puzzle of Delhi’s layout to provide you the best means of negotiating the Capital

They say the first impression is the last impression. But in some cases, it is wiser to not trust your first impression. For example, if you are a first timer planning a visit to Delhi on an official or business tour, or are visiting the city after a long gap, the chaotic jam, unruly driving, stray cows bang on the middle of the roads are enough to put you off. However, as you go around the city - a perfect patchwork of the traditional and modern - it doesn’t really disappoint you. And having a fair idea about the layout of the city helps to plan your itinerary better and saves you some travel blues.

Remember the boxes that conceal three or four smaller boxes inside. Every time you open one, another smaller in size pops up. Delhi is very much like that. Unlike Kolkata and Mumbai, which grew lengthwise, Delhi fanned out on all sides. The city whose origin trails back to the Pandavas in 1450 BC can be broadly divided into two cities - Old Delhi confined within the boundary wall of Moghul Shahjahanabad and New Delhi, built by the British.

With its narrow alleys, havelis, shops huddling together and jutting out on the roads, Old Delhi is still a reminiscence of the Moghul era. Chandni Chowk flanked by the towering presence of the historic Jama Masjid and Red Fort, remains the main business centre where small traders, wholesalers and distributors for the rest of north India do brisk business.

In 1931, Lutyen gave a new meaning to city planning when he finished building New Delhi around a circular arterial road called Ring Road with stately architectures matching the magnificence of the historical monuments strewn around the city. All roads in New Delhi lead to the India Gate, which is a memorial to the unknown soldiers who lost their lives in World War I, like radii to a circle. From India Gate, the Barakhamba Road and KG Marg lead to Connaught Place, the central business district of the city, while the Ashoka Road to the Parliament House.

Though the distinction between Old and New Delhi still exist, yet north, south, east and west Delhi are now more commonly used to demarcate the city. There are dramatic differences in localities, and standards and style of living. The presence of diplomatic and trade missions, multinational companies and foreign investors, and the influx of tourists and visiting professionals have given the southern and central parts of the Capital a cosmopolitan air. South Delhi is the place where the new big international businesses are concentrated and spacious, posh residential areas are located. The upmarket South Delhiites are undoubtedly the trend-setters and fashions and lifestyle introduced here become the aspirations of those living in other parts of Delhi.

Delhi’s business activity for long has been mainly concentrated in the business districts of Connaught Place in central Delhi, and Nehru Place and Bhikaji Cama Place in south Delhi. Like Nariman Point in Mumbai, Connaught Place is the nerve centre of the metropolis. All major airlines and international banks, British Council, USIS and big corporate houses have their offices here. Nehru Place and Bhikaji Cama have their share of MNCs, information technology, power, automobile, and pharmaceutical biggies. Now, Rajendra Place in west Delhi has come up as an important business centre. Delhi also has five industrial zones - Okhla and Qutub Industrial Area in the periphery of south Delhi, Naraina and Mayapuri industrial areas in the west and Wazirpur in north Delhi.

During early and mid 1990s, suburbanisation of the city occurred. The south-western suburb of Gurgaon and eastern suburb of Noida emerged as major commercial districts. Now, Gurgaon is probably the fastest growing mini-city in the country with avant garde office blocks and half-a-dozen giant malls. Corporates decided to shift base to the suburbs from the central business districts (CBDs) to cut costs and survive the ongoing recession. The list of companies that shifted to Gurgoan include Smithkline Beecham, British Airways, GE and BankAm. Coca-Cola is another MNC, which has relocated its corporate office from Nehru Place to DLF Plaza in Gurgaon.

It is important that you have a fair idea of the Delhi region because travelling in Delhi can be a headache if you are caught in a jam because the distance between two points in the NCR can be around 40 kms. Recently, the government has constructed a slew of flyovers and some are still coming up, yet jam is a way of life since the city has the maximum number of vehicles in the country. Naturally, you will be wasting your precious time commuting if you do not chalk out your itinerary cautiously. For instance, if you have meetings fixed in Rajendra Place and you are staying in Park Royal in Nehru Place, you will be travelling in a semicircular route from south to west traversing one-third of the city. If your business interests are concentrated in Connaught Place (CP), west and north Delhi, it’s best to look for an accommodation near CP because north and west doesn’t offer very many options. The Oberoi Maidens (four-star) in north with its old-world charm and Hotel Siddharth (five-star) and Hotel Sobti (three-star) in the west are among the few options. CP has a good mix of five-, four-, three-star accommodation. From the classy Imperial and business hotels Le Meridien, The Park and Grand Intercontinental in the five-star category, to The Connaught and Hans Plaza in the four-star category and Hotel Alka and Centre Point in the rung below are good options. And there are many more. Your evenings are taken well care of as theatres (for plays and cultural programmes), museums, art galleries, shopping centres are within the two kms radius. Walk down Janpath for traditional items (Central Cottage Emporium is here), trendy and reasonably priced outfits (you can bargain a lot), or take a round of CP for branded merchandising. The area has several standalone restaurants and familiar fast food zones of Wimpy, McDonalds, Pizza Hut, TGI Friday etc. Try Nirula’s for sit down lunch or a quick bite and ice creams. Rodeo for Mexican delicacies and Cafe California for mixed fare are a good try. The Imperial Hotel is a good place to nosh on some top quality grill and continental dishes.

You can also stay in Dhaula Kuan which is the entry point to west Delhi and equidistant from CP and airport. The ITC Maurya Sheraton, Taj Palace and Ashok Hotel are the right choices. However, after dark you will have to be content staying inside the hotel as the diplomatic enclave wears a deserted look. Just away from CP, towards the south near Khan market, Taj Ambassador, Taj Mahal and The Oberoi (on Zakir Hussain Marg) are other prestigious five-star addresses. Khan market has some good eating joints and shopping options.

If your business interest is in the south, you need not look elsewhere as it offers everything a traveller wants. The south is dotted with good five-star hotels complete with conferencing facilities, modern connectivity and good restaurants, plus a discotheque, a putting green or spa thrown in. But, if you need to operate in Nehru Place and Noida, Park Royal Intercontinental in Nehru Place is the best bet. The other options are WelcomMarriott in Saket and Crowne Plaza Surya (both five-star) in New Friends Colony. In the budget category, you get to choose from Hotel Vikram (near LSR college), Rajdoot Hotel Manor, New Friend’s Regency which is strategically located next to Bhikaji Cama Place, or the Qutub near the Qutub Industrial area. The Grand and Vasant Continental in and around Vasant Vihar are close to Bhikaji Cama Place and almost equidistant from the airport, west Delhi business districts and Nehru Place.

South Delhi is a shopper’s paradise. While Dilli Haat is the right place for ethnic traditional artefacts, dresses and regional cuisine, the central markets of Lajpat Nagar and Sarojini Nagar offer everything at a more reasonable price. The upmarket South Extension, lined with ultra-modern shopping malls and glitzy stores tempt you to take a pick from designer wear to imported brands, crystals to gold jewellery, books to electrical goods. Close by in Khel Gaon Marg is Asal Plaza shopping mall, defined as an all-American shopping centre. Geoffrey’s, the resto-pub here is a happening joint to lift your spirits, while Lemon Grass in South Extension is good for a quiet Thai fare.

Let me warn you Delhi has not much of a nightlife. The hotels tend to be the pockets of entertainment options like discos and pubs. The trendiest hangouts are again found in the top hotels. Float Nightclub at the Park Royal and Djinns in Hyatt Regency are big swish joints. If you are a movie buff, head for Anupam PVR in Saket (very close to WelcomMarriott) or Priya PVR in Vasant Vihar (close to The Grand, Vasant Continental and Hyatt). After the movie you can hang around some good eating joints.

Accommodation

Five-Star Le Meridien New Delhi email: info@lemeridien-newdelhi.com The Taj Mahal Hotel email: tmhbe@tajhotels.com Four-Star The Connaught email: prominent.hotels@gems.vsnl.net.in Hotel Broadway email: broadway@oldworldhospitality.com Three-Star Nirula’s Hotel email: delhihotel@nirulas.com

Getting Around

When you get down at the domestic or international airport, take a pre-paid metre or private taxi for your destination. That prevents you from getting fleeced. Most hotels arrange airport pick-ups if informed. Additionally both Delhi Transport Corporation and EATS (run by ex-service men) operate coach services to the city at Rs 50 per person starting from Terminal II, the stops include Dhaula Kuan, Connaught Place, New Delhi Railway Station, Red Fort and ISBT, touching the major hotels enroute. The travails of travelling in Delhi are enormous. The section of the metro which is operational doesn’t touch the business districts. Buses are not very frequent and stops are far and few in between. The circular rail touches only the city suburbs. Unlike Mumbai and Kolkata, you cannot see empty meter-taxis plying on roads. Taxis have to be called from the taxi booths, which means you have to locate a booth in a locality to hire a taxi. Instead you find three-wheelers. CNG driven, these autorickshaws have two meter rates - either it is Rs 8 or Rs 5 meter down. In case of the former, render the exact amount shown on the meter. For the latter, forget the meter amount. Multiply the distance shown with Rs 3.50 and add Rs 4.50 to get the final amount. Ensure that the meter is flagged down before he starts and insist on seeing rate cards. For a first timer, it is better to contact a tourist transport operator and book a car for half or whole day for safe and hassle-free travel. Or, else ask the hotel to get you a meter taxi and pay waiting charge in addition to meter rent. Both will give you bills. The autos are there, of course. The long stretch of roads wearing a deserted look, empty bus stops plus the city’s not-too-encouraging crime record might make you feel uncomfortable. So, keep a map handy.