Wet -n- Wild

Achal Dhruva profiles some weekend hideaways around Mumbai to make the most of the monsoon

Cool gusts of breeze, bright flashes of lightning, roll of drums in the sky and the intoxicating smell of wet earth herald yet another monsoon. While the respite from heat and dust is more than welcome, the joy of ‘rain drops falling on my head.....’ is as short lived as the first showers in ‘amchi’ Mumbai. Mucky roads, traffic snarls, leaking houses, late trains, dead telephones, kids’ noses running at the speed of fast locals...the litany of problems pours on with the advent of the rains.

The monsoon is a ‘wet blanket’ for most denizens of Mumbai, except for the lucky few who sport rose-tinted glasses of romance. Sharing an umbrella or a hot ‘butta’ (corn cobs), or simply walking hand-in-hand down Marine Drive or Queen’s Necklace, getting drenched by the spray of waves lashing against the wall makes for wonderful memories.

Durshet

Sajan

Jamrukh

However, if your idea of chasing away the ‘monsoon blues’ is flipping channels for ‘wet’ ‘item’ numbers or nursing a stiff drink with a book, it is time you break free. Mumbai is blessed with the proximity of the Sahyadri Range. The Sahyadris, with its rugged topography, extensive forest cover, huge lakes, waterfalls, historic forts and rocky pinnacles, have a plethora of weekend getaways. In almost all the mountainous regions the world-over, monsoon means ‘bad weather,’ but in the Sahyadris, it is not only the best time for trekking, but also for a ‘wet-n-wild’ holiday.

Head out of the city from the central side and within 60-70 kilometres you are amidst the hills. Various shades of green interspersed with flashes of brown and black fed by innumerable streams, rivers and waterfalls give the feel of being part of a watercolour painting, which is still wet.

Escaping the monsoon madness of the city over the weekends has become almost a ritual for hordes of Mumbaikars. However, the psyche is to descend like migratory birds for run-of-the-mill resort holidays upon a few so-called ‘popular’ destinations like Khandala-Lonavala, Matheran, Mahabaleshwar, Malshej Ghat, Bhandardhara etc. There are however scores of relatively undiscovered sites for a short break far from the madding crowd. If you are yearning to experience the rustic beauty of Maharashtra coupled with a bit of adventure and willing to live without frills of luxury read on.

Into The Green
Best described as a personal hideaway, Chaitanyawadi at Jamrukh, 30 kilometres from Karjat, is a haven for all ‘water babies.’ An obscure tiny hamlet in the country side, Jamrukh, strategically located in an amphitheatre of towering mountains comes alive with the ‘sound of water’ in the monsoon. Innumerable silver streaks run down the mist covered mountains, while fast moving streams and rivers run riot at the base. Untouched by vestiges of crass commercialisation, Chaitanyawadi, a private property spread over nine acres dotted with mango, chickoo, coconut, sitaphal plantation, is a dream getaway.

The profusion of green all around is mesmerising as well as intoxicating. Shedding inhibitions and having a ‘face off’ with your wildside seems most natural. Sitting at mid-night under a waterfall adjacent to the property as ‘God sent me to this world’, watching a ballet of fireflies and skinny dipping in torch light in a small lake are unforgettable experiences.

While the charm of being lulled to sleep by the sound of rain lashing against the roof of the thatched hut is now a memory with the recent construction of a two bedroom cottage (3,000 square feet) at Chaitanyawadi, it ensures basic amenities and modicum of comfort for the less adventurous.

Chaitanyawadi is the end of a search for a personal retreat of two friends and partners passionate about nature. Shankar and Sammer Rana bought the property over a decade ago and for the past few years have been renting it out to discerning nature lovers. Though food is provided (see box), if in the mood you can also cook your own meals in the fully equipped kitchen.

Chaitanyawadi also has a number of attractions in the vicinity for an adventure-filled weekend. Peth Fort, which forms the backdrop, is a two-hour trek, not too strenuous from Ambivili village, two kilometres before Jamrukh. Behind the village at the base is a small lake, ideal both for swimming and wallowing for hours on end like water buffaloes. For non-swimmers the river running outside the gate of the property is a better bet. Lie down in the shallow water and let the flowing water give you a gentle massage.

The most rewarding excursion, on par with the trek to Peth, is reaching one of the several waterfalls (one really loses count of how many) streaking down the expansive rocky mountain face, situated about 15 minutes drive up the road from Chaitanyawadi.

A half-hour scramble through the dense undergrowth at the base and over slippery rocks reaches you to a small rocky ledge, blessed with showers of two or three waterfalls. Despite shivering from the sharp pin-prick like assault of the cascading chilly waters it’s an exhilarating feeling and the crowning glory is to see a huge rainbow suddenly burst forth spanning from the fields below to the mountain. I don’t know about the pot of gold but ‘monsoon magic’ at Jamrukh, yes, I believe in it.

On The Nature Trail
Don’t be surprised if you let out a lusty cry Tarzan style drowning the cacophony of birds, perched in a bamboo hut high on a teak tree surveying the canopy of green stretching all the way to the distant hills.

Tree houses of Sajan Nature Club, the Nature Trails property at Sajan, offer a unique back to nature experience. Spread over 20 acres amidst thick deciduous forest with a huge artificial waterfall and a jungle river flowing below the tree houses, the resort has all the excitement of being on a safari, sans the wild animals.

Sajan is a sleepy idyllic village, about 100 kilometres on the Wada-Jawahar Road. The three-hour drive is sheer pleasure with minimal traffic and good roads passing through tiny hamlets surrounded by fields and grazing cattle, providing a glimpse into the pastoral life of Maharashtra.

A weekend retreat at Sajan or Divekarwadi (Nature Trails), a garden resort spread over five acres at Vikramgad, seven kilometres away, is perfect for recuperating those frayed city nerves. Lazing on the hammocks or chilling out under the artificial waterfall listening to the sounds of the jungle, the resorts are a world within themselves. But for compulsive sightseers there are a number of scenic and historical places in the vicinity. Mohkrud Dam, one-and-a-half kilometres from Vikramgad, is a large tranquil expanse filled with migratory birds during season. But for a more thrilling sight head for Palusa waterfall, a huge horse-shoe cataract surrounded by hills, plunging over 30 feet. About four kilometres from Vikramgad on the road to Jawahar, this idyllic and relatively unknown spot is just a short climb off the road. Walk down to the river and in five minutes you hit the waterfall. There is a huge pool extending beyond the waterfall, deep in parts perfect for a swim.

Another attraction in the area is the lesser-known hill station, Jawahar. Located 25 kilometres from Sajan, Jawahar is the seat of the Warli tribals. It houses Jai Vilas, the palace of the former tribal king. A little bit of ‘coaxing’ and the watchman will give you a tour. Besides the majestic Dadra-Kopra falls (seasonal) and the picturesque Hanuman and Sunset points, Jawahar is also famous for its Warli paintings.

Forest Lodge, Nature Trails property at Durshet near Khopoli, is yet another sylvan setting. The property, set amidst 42 acres of extensive plantations of fruit trees, casurinas, acacias and mahua trees with river Amba cutting through and a gurgling waterfall, exudes a picture postcard beauty. Days are filled with forest walks, swimming or relaxing under a waterfall.

Two Ganpati temples, Shri Varad Vinayak, 20 kilometres north of Durshet at Mahad with a picturesque lakefront setting and Shri Bhalleshwar Ashtavinayak, at Pali with the backdrop of the old fort, same distance in the south, are worth visiting.

All three properties besides offering abundance of nature also have a host of adventure activities, like rock climbing, rappelling, river crossing etc and are ideal venues for corporate outbound training programmes.

Call of the Wild
Tucked away in the thickly wooded interiors of the Sahyadris, nature sings its own songs at Khodala. Soaking in the mist and the green is the more laidback option at Wild Camp run by India Outdoors, a Mumbai-based adventure company.

Organised activity like waterfall rappelling, mountain biking, jeep safaris, trekking etc give an additional ‘kick’ to the high of being out in the wilderness. Wandering about the forested hills, excitement is fuelled by the promise of a chance encounter with a leopard or a sloth bear. The jungles around Khodala, which include the Amala Wildlife Sanctuary, 11 kilometres away boast of jackals, striped hyena, bison, antelopes, wild boar, monkeys plus a host of other animals and reptiles. But it’s the rich bird life of orioles, parrots, black bulbuls, black drongos, magpies, robins, which bring the jungle alive. Located approximately 120 kilometres from Mumbai and 22 kilometres off the Mumbai-Nasik Highway, Wild Camp, set on a lush incline of 15 acres, comprising of four cottages and two tents, also has interesting places worth a visit. The famous Deobandh Ganesh temple is just two kilometres from the Wild Camp. Surrounded on three sides by an enchanting river with breathtaking views of the mountains, one is instilled with a sense of great peace. Upper Vaitarna Dam with its huge lake fringed with thick woods, 20 kilometres away evokes similar feelings and is a good picnic spot.

The trek to Suryamal, the highest peak in the vicinity, nine kilometres away is worth the aches for the birds eye view of seemingly never ending expanse of green. A wild time is necessarily not restricted to hearing the ‘pitter patter’ of the rains. Some great African jungle beats or trance music can be arranged for a rocking all night long party. However, all activities require pre-arrangement. India Outdoors also organises corporate camps.