Nairobi

Sheetal Wadhwa Munshaw discovers how Kenya’s capital city has developed in a single century from an uninhabited swamp-land to a flourishing metropolis

View of Nairobi from the outskirts

For most armchair travellers, the impression of Nairobi is that of a civilised purgatory where lions devour and cheetahs chase, where crime thrives in a savage city and bombs and attacks make headlines. But for the rest of us who have experienced the warmth of the place and its people, Kenya is Africa’s version of God’s own country.

Akamba arrowmaker displays his wares in market

Tracing the trail
It all started when in 1899 when railway construction workers made a headway into Nairobi which was then no more than a swamp-land. On their arrival, they set up a basic camp structure and the awe-struck local ethnic community (Maasai) named this highland swamp ‘Nyrobi’, which in their dialect means ‘the place of cool waters’. The basic camp then transformed into a rustic village, and then a shanty town, which by 1907 was the capital of all of British East Africa and is now one of Africa’s largest gateway cities. Despite its shantytown origins, Nairobi today is a United Nations headquarters city. It definitely is the economical, if not political capital of much of East and Central Africa and of course Kenya. The capital’s throbbing city centre - Nairobi’s focal point - is attractively laid-out over three-square-kilometres, bound in the east by Haile Selassie Avenue, in the south by Parliament Buildings, in the north by Moi Avenue, and in the west by University Way. The skyline is dominated by the 33-storey, 105-metre (344-feet) high profile of the Kenyatta International Conference Centre. Among the most important industries is agriculture and tourism, the largest foreign exchange raker for the country. The tourism industry is fast adapting the technologies and methodologies to project Nairobi and Kenya as a world-class destination.

Church of the Torch

Melting-Pot Heritage
Nairobi is a characteristic blend of modernism and traditionalism. While people are willingly embracing a promising future, they also dearly cherish and take pride in their glorious past. And it is in this conviviality of the past and future that one discovers the real Nairobi. The city today is a brawling, dynamic maelstrom of cultures and enterprises that reflects its melting-pot heritage. Its many contrasts are reflected in the variety of tribes, races, origins as well as in the geographical juxtaposition of the city centre lying in close proximity to the African wilderness. It is blessed with natural beauty and just outside the city is Nairobi National Park where Rhino, cheetah and a large number of lions are living wild within 20 minutes of the centre of town. The fact that the city has not lost its sense of the past is clearly mirrored in the vivacity of Moi avenue as it divides the smart, metropolitan, office blocks and colonial landmarks from what many consider the real Nairobi. This is where the capital’s African ambience comes to vivid life. Open-fronted shops display colourful wares, and the latest Swahili music hits fill up the air by night and day. The city also has a very strong Indian diaspora. These Indians themselves are a melange of the NRI culture and the spirit of Nairobi. As explains Rajiv Mediratta, managing director, Slumberland (NRI industrialist), “It’s a brilliant blend of the contemporary and conventional. There are many benefits of living in Nairobi – you’re based in the heart of the capital and at the same time you are not far away from wildlife and nature. You could drive out just a few hours and take off on a weekend safari or retreat in one of the best resort hotels of the world such as The Aberdare Country Club or The Mount Kenya Safari Club. We’ve been living in Nairobi forever, my kids are now the fourth generation of Medirattas living here and there is no other place we’d much rather be.”

Aerial view of Nairobi

Night Life
Nairobi boasts a good selection of discos in the centre of the city and the entry charges are very nominal in the range of US$ 2 to 3. Discos tend to stay open until 5 or 6 am in the morning. Among the most popular ones is Florida 2000 on Moi Avenue. New Florida, more commonly known as Mad House amongst the locals, is also fairly popular and is located on the corner of Kionange and Banda Sts. Another prominent place for the night owls is Visions on Kimathi St open daily except Mondays. Live Music is a big hit on the Nairobi scene, interesting places to listen in are Bobbax Club on Ngong Rd which has live bands practically every night, Zanze Bar which is on the top floor of Kenya Cinema Plaza and day dreamers can tune into the African Heritage Cafe on Banda St on the weekends.

For those looking for a quieter evening over a few drinks Nairobi has some interesting bars. The liveliest among these would probably be Buffalo Bill’s at The Heron Court Hotel, Milimani Rd. The hit list also features The Pub on Standard St and the Thorn Tree Cafe in the New Stanley Hotel. The interesting thing about the Thorn Tree is that you could leave personalised messages for your friends on their notice board.

Sight Seeing

• Nairobi National Park - This game park is just a few kms away from the city centre and is made up of 113 sq kms of plains, cliffs and forest. The park is home to large herds of zebra, wildebeest, buffalo, giraffe, rhino and predators as well
• The Karen Blixen Museum - This is the historical residence of Blixen, the author of the famous ‘Out of Africa’.
• Langata Giraffe Centre - The centre is about 18 km from Nairobi. Here you can observe and hand-feed Rothschild giraffes from a raised circular wooden structure.
• The Bomas Of Kenya - This is a cultural centre at Langata. You can experience the cultural diversity of 16 ethnic groups through their music and dance performances amid authentically recreated surroundings.
• Day Excursions - A little out of the main city centre is the spectacular twenty seven metre deep ‘Fourteen Falls’ waterfalls at Thika which makes a perfect scenic day trip. Nearby Ol Donyo Sabuk National Park is centred around an imposing 2,146 metre mountain. For the adventurous, take an hour’s drive from town and you will find white water rafting on the beautiful Tana River.

Jacaranda bloom on Nairobi's Kenyatta Avenue

General Information

• Currency - The Kenyan currency is the Shilling. Most international currencies can be exchanged either in banks or in Forex bureaus. Visa, Amex and Master card are widely accepted.
• Water - It is advisable to use bottled water for drinking.
• Health - Yellow fever vaccination prior to departure is mandatory. Once taken it is valid for a period of ten years.
• Security - Nairobi is generally safe but it is best not to walk or drive into dark alleys or unlit streets at night. If one has to leave the hotel at night, the hotel reception staff will be of great help to avail a taxi for you. Do not carry a lot of money with you. Just have enough money for what you wish to buy. The rest of the money and other valuables can be kept in the hotels safe.
• Communication - If you have a mobile phone with a roaming connection you could use the local cellular connection. However, it is very expensive to make international calls from Nairobi. E-mails are a better means of communication as internet facilities are very reasonable.
• Business Hours - Businesses are open from Monday to Friday, though some also trade on Saturday. Business hours are generally 9 am to 5 pm, closing for an hour over lunch (1 pm to 2 pm)
• Banks - Banks are open from 9 am to 3 pm Monday to Friday. Some branches open on Saturdays from 9 am to 11 am. Many banks are now equipped with 24-hour ATM machines. The bank branches at Jomo Kenyatta International airport (Nairobi) and Moi International Airport both run 24 hour forex services.

Places to eat

• Parliament Buildings in Nairobi

  Tamambo Bar & Grill
  Tel: +254(0)2448059 or 448394/5
  Located in the Mall in Westlands, it is Nairobi’s newest and trendiest restaurant and bar. It features transcontinental cuisine, exotic desserts and a variety of bar snacks and sensational cocktails. The restaurant is a good place to grab a light salad and sandwich for lunch.
• Carnivore
  Tel: 501709
  Carnivore is the award winning restaurant that features among the world’s top fifty restaurants. It is a meat feast experience with a variety of exotic game meat such as zebra, crocodile, impala etc to choose from. It truly is an experience not to miss when in Nairobi.
• The Khyber Restaurant
  The Meridien Court Hotel
  Muranga’s Rd, near top end of Moi Avenue
  Nairobi
  Tel: 225585
  Nairobi has a great selection of restaurants specialising in Indian cuisine. Khyber offers amongst the finer dining experiences a la Indienne. So if you’re missing the desi roti drop by at The Meridien.

Flea Market

Shopping

• Bid, Braid and Buy
  There’s only one way to describe shopping in Kenya - wild ‘n’ wacky! The best representation of this is the local flea market which is the most authentic African experience. Locals showcase indigenous artifacts to fascinated tourists. Bargain is your password as these smart young boys will tag an astronomical price to their goods which can come down to ridiculously low levels, depending on how well you have mastered this art. The key is not to display your eagerness to purchase, the more aloof and indifferent you are the better price you’ll get. You should look out for paintings, handicrafts and curios like wood and stone carvings of common game, people, Kiondos (traditional baskets), batiks, jewellery, colourful coasters, beaded necklaces, zebra striped cutlery, soapstone chess boards and other articles with animal motifs, carved wooden models both human and animal as well as a galaxy of artifacts. Hair braiding is another novelty. It’s also a great window into the local culture. You’d be seated in an open air salon where local hair stylists will meticulously braid your hair while a crowd of African Mamas will chat you up or sing to you. You’d be surprised to see to what extent they are cued in on Bollywood and Indian culture. A must buy from the local supermarket would be Kenyan coffees that are world renowned for their strong brew and aroma and vodka sachets that are also very convenient and popular.

Tea Plantations in Tigoni Uplands near Nairobi

Accommodation

Getting Around

• Road - Visitors to Nairobi can self drive using an international drivers license. Hire cars are widely available. Before hiring a car, all legalities should be thoroughly checked and appropriate contracts and waivers signed. Most car hire companies charge a set per kilometre or unlimited rate.Driving at night is not advisable.
• Taxi - Taxis are very convenient and are widely available in Nairobi. Nairobi taxis are usually marked with a yellow line along each side. There is also a large fleet of large London taxis operating within the city. Taxis are not metered, and a price should be agreed with the driver before departure. The three wheel Bajaj Auto-Rickshaw or Tuk Tuk of South East Asia are becoming increasingly popular as taxis in Nairobi. Once again, fares need to be negotiated in advance.
• Bus - Within Nairobi the large Kenyan buses operate on set routes and schedules throughout the city and suburban streets. Buses can be boarded at any stop and tickets purchased on board. Buses are an inexpensive way to travel although they are known for overcrowding and speeding.
• Matatu - The most popular form of public transport is the Matatu which is a minibus, ideal for locals only. Matatus operate on set routes, and collect as many passengers as possible both from the outset and along the way. Passengers board and alight whenever and wherever they choose.

Getting There

• Various international airlines as well as our national carrier fly to Nairobi. Kenya Airways is the official carrier to Nairobi. The airline has recently upgraded its Business Class services and offers seamless connectivity and other value adds for their passengers. The flight timings are also convenient for business travellers as you take off from Mumbai around 3 am Mumbai time and land in Nairobi around 8 am local time which makes its convenient to make a headway to meetings perfect after a good night sleep.