Romancing The Rann

Achal Dhruva experiences the splendours of the great desert of Kutch

Nothing, absolutely nothing could have prepared me for the scene, which unfolded before my eyes. Mesmerised I drank in the stark yet beautiful landscape. For miles around merging into the distant horizon lay a large barren expanse, a huge white bed sheet with blotches of blue (water) shimmering in the afternoon sun.

Perched atop Kaladungar (1,515 feet), the highest mountain in Kutch, the Great Rann of Kutch, a hard white expanse of mud and salt covered with fine sand appeared like a Himalayan glacier magnified hundred times over. This ‘Kharopat’ or salty expanse covering an area of 1,800 square kilometers is undoubtedly a great wonder of nature and has an all-pervading influence on life in the region.

Kaladungar, 80 kilometers from Bhuj, the district headquarters, is a lone sentinel and the last major landmark before the never-ending wasteland. Besides the overwhelming magnitude of the desert, excitement is fuelled by the fact that the Pakistan border is just 90 kilometers away. Civilization stops short of India Bridge, twenty kilometers away and the harsh terrain beyond with temperatures touching 50 degree Celsius in summer and just above zero in winter is populated only by the Border Security Force (BSF) and the Army.

Tribal Life in Kutch (Top & Bottom)

Intricately carved interiors of a bhoonga

Chattardis at Bhuj

Tomb in Lakhpat Fort

Absorbing this huge vista of riveting desert scape thinking I had seen it all, I heard an echo of ‘laung, laung...,’ which pierced through the howling wind. A sadhu was standing on the edge of the mountain beating a thali shouting into the valley over and over again, ‘laung, laung.’ He continued for five minutes, placed something on the rocks and then walked back to the small temple of Lord Dattatray, the only other structure on the peak besides the BSF shacks. Intrigued, I was about to question the sadhu when he pointed towards the rocks. A fox appeared sniffing the mountain air and was soon followed by four others, to partake their mid-day meal of sweet rice and lapsi (a kind of sheera). For years, the head priest of the temple has been feeding these creatures who answer his call of ‘laung, laung,’ with unfailing regularity like pet dogs. The sadhu informed that the evening congregrations swell to nearly 20-25.

According to folklore, Dattatray Maharaj took samadhi after 12 years of penance on the peak of Kaladungar. He used to offer prasad to the devotees and the foxes. Once the region was affected with severe drought and the Maharaj ran out of prasad. When a starving fox came up to him for food he had nothing to offer, so he offered his body saying, "lo aang" (take my body ). The fox survived by biting a morsel everyday and when the Maharaj’s end was near, the fox questioned who would feed him after Maharaj was gone. The Maharaja assured the fox that his clan would be catered to by the head priest and till date the practice has continued.

The strange encounter with foxes which are an integral part of the mystic beauty of the mountain and the desert was like stepping into a world of magical realism of Gabriel Marquez or Salman Rushdie’s novels. Kaladungar certainly left an indelible mark, as did the rest of Kutch, on my short six- day whirlwind escapade to this fascinating northwest frontier of Gujarat to witness the Kutch Utsav (See Box), couple of years ago.

I was accorded a traditional welcome as soon as I steeped out of Gandhidham station. An ass stood blocking our vehicle braying lustily and he refused to budge until he had finished his welcome speech. The ass is the most common animal found loitering in the streets of the various towns of the region but his cousin-the Jack Ass, running wild in the semi-desert areas of the district, is the main attraction.

The narrow bustling lanes of Bhuj, the district headquaters, 48 kilometers from Gandhidham, is filled with the braying clan and the township and its people display the same laidback attitude. Colourfully dressed in sharp contrast to the uniform sandy landscape, people just amble in any direction, displaying an absolute lack of road sense. A gateway to the region, the walled town pictorially placed between two streams was built by Rao Khengarji I (1510-85) whose successors ruled Kutch till its merger in the Indian union in 1948.

Bhuj is a classic example of desert township like Jaisalmer and Bikaner with its charming sandstone monuments presenting an aura of medieval glory and an enchanting Arabian Nights feel about it. An ancient citadel, Bhuj has a plethora of interesting tourist sites. Darbargadh Palace, erected in various stages, is an intricate maze of traceries, Rajput Jarokha or balconies, cupolas and Mughal turrets that are in stark contrast to Rao Pragmalji’s Palace.

The edifice erected in 1860s and 70s in a Venetian-Gothic style with pointed Gothic arches, classical colonnades and European truss timber roofs, is the most spectacular sight in town. However, the magnificent palace like many other structures suffered extensive damage during the devastating earthquake, which rocked the region on Republics Day in 2001.

The exteriors of Aina Mahal are very simple and drab but the austere facade hides some of the most glorious palace interiors imaginable. Nowhere else can one see so much extravagance concentrated in a few rooms. It was built in the 18th century and the center piece is a pleasure pool courtyard with fountains surrounded by marble walls, which are inlaid with mosaics of mirror and precious stones.

Another chamber known as Hira Mahal, is upholstered in silk embroidery and decorated with Dutch, English and French clocks and toys. The royalty of this desert kingdom made equally spectacular burial grounds to match their larger than life images.

Chattardi or the samadhi sites of the royalty, decorated with beautiful and intricate sandstone carvings and well sculpted funeral stones, are located adjacent to Lakhparo lake in the heart of the town. Among all the Chattardis,the grandeur of the Chattardi of Raja Lakhpat is unrivalled. Besides his idol, the main hall is adorned with idols of his 15 queens who committed sati.

Nights in Bhuj during the Kutch Utsav are one long celebration. The huge municipal ground resonates to the foot-stomping beats of the traditional folk dances and the audiences are regaled into the wee hours by the dairo, a typical story telling art of Kutch. However the nerve center of the Utsav is Dhrang, one-and-a- half hour drive, from Bhuj. Throngs of locals converge at the ancient Shiv temple in all their finery. Once they pay their respects to the Gods they break out in joyous celebration of life with impromptu dances, horse races, camel races and donkey races. The atmosphere becomes surcharged with heavy betting of the pride of the small hamlets, is at stake in these races.

However, Banni, the semi-desert region near Khavda, offers a glimpse of true village life and natural beauty. Large patches of seawater marshes have turned the region into a haven for thousands of flamingoes and other migratory birds. During winter one can witness at close quarters the life and flight of these graceful birds -an ethereal sight which remains etched in the memory for a long time.

The best way to explore this waste land’s rich wildlife like wild boars, foxes, wild ass etc is on camel back, an adventure of a lifetime. As you wander about for hours in search of game you might be greeted by the most exotic sight of this region, a caravan of Rabbaris, a clan of nomads. Dressed in jet black with thick colourful embroidery work on their dresses, the caravan generally comprising of a few camels and donkeys loaded with their meager belongings is accompanied by women. The men folk usually follow with their grazing herds of goats.

Banni is also filled with pockets of small villages where generations have been creating the most exquisite handicrafts like engraving on silver ornaments, bandhani embroidery, wall paintings, wood work, lacquerware, terracotta and textiles within the Bhoongas. An entry into their simple-but-traditional dwellings, which are circular mud structures with conical thatched roofs takes you into a mini gallery of art. The white washed walls are intricately carved with mirror work where women folk are engaged in bharat kaam or embroidery. Their handicrafts have made them world famous. They are equally famous for their hospitability and sharing their spartan meal of Bajara rotis, khicchdi and buttermilk can leave you licking your fingers for a long time.

The villages, a hidden wealth of culture, art, history and tradition has made this region a perfect tourist destination, which till date has remained unexplored. Kutch Utsav can be a perfect begining for a life long love affair with the people of the endless desert trapped in time.

Photographs: Natwar Vyas and Achal Dhruva